Landscape Astrophotography with m43 - The shoot and Post Process (Image Heavy)

maritan

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My shot exposed properly, but I just can't see to compose it. What am I missing? I was using an E-M1 and 12-40 lens.

I don't think you're missing much. What I do to save time is take a 1-2 second shot at ISO 25600 to see my composition quicker than if I had to wait for the entire duration.
 

siftu

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Ugh.....yes, this makes sense. I will try this next time. Thanks!
Yes you aren't missing much. That is why I try to scout out exactly where I will be during the day. Always carry a flashlight, and set my focus on a bright star/planet. You really cant see that much via the EVF. As martan suggested fire a few test shots with far high iso than you would normally go to confirm or adjust.
 

wjiang

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hmmm okay.. ya stupid me.. multiple or rows of pano, in that case it all make sens then. widest i have is 12mm right now.... let me see if i can pull that off before i make another investment . thanks for the great tips!

What pano head would you recommend?

I don't use one personally, but I think Rob Dickinson, a local landscape/astrophotographer in my area (http://www.rjd.co.nz) uses a Gigapan.
 

wjiang

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Ugh.....yes, this makes sense. I will try this next time. Thanks!
Given that you have an E-M1, you could also try LV Boost 2 to fine tune your composition. It's a bit laggy though so I wouldn't recommend leaving it on. You can't MF very well with it on, for instance. I set LV Boost 2 to activate on Bulb/Time, if I want to preview composition I just change shutter speed to Live Bulb/Time, then change back to my desired shutter speed to go back to normal.
 

gingergirl

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if I want to preview composition I just change shutter speed to Live Bulb/Time, then change back to my desired shutter speed to go back to normal

Thanks. I'll try that too. I knew there had to be a few work-arounds for this issue.
 

siftu

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DSS has problems with windows 10 - it won't install. Message about system policy prevents installation.
I ran it on windows 10. Cant remember how to get over that I probably googled
 

cyrax83

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I don't have an intervalometer. Does the E-M1 have one inbuilt? Or am I out of luck and have to watch the camera and manually click to start another shot?
So 30 shots @ 25 seconds = 30 shots * 50 seconds (dark frame subtraction) = 25 minutes. is that right?
 

siftu

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I don't have an intervalometer. Does the E-M1 have one inbuilt? Or am I out of luck and have to watch the camera and manually click to start another shot?
So 30 shots @ 25 seconds = 30 shots * 50 seconds (dark frame subtraction) = 25 minutes. is that right?
It has one built in. On my em10 and em5ii I think it's called time lapse. Read up on ho to use it and test it out before the night.
 

shepx13

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Thank for the amazing write up. This is something I am going to make some attempts at soon.
Question though: I remember reading about the EM1 having issues when taking shots like this. Does using the dark frame negate those issues?
 

siftu

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Thank for the amazing write up. This is something I am going to make some attempts at soon.
Question though: I remember reading about the EM1 having issues when taking shots like this. Does using the dark frame negate those issues?
There is no doubt you can do this stuff with the e-m1.. Look at wjiangs astro photos for proof, they are excellent. Yes The dark frame subtraction will remove those hot pixels.
 

travelbug

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Oct 20, 2014
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There is no doubt you can do this stuff with the e-m1.. Look at wjiangs astro photos for proof, they are excellent. Yes The dark frame subtraction will remove those hot pixels.

what is the equivalent of dark frame subtraction on an em5ii?
 

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