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Is HDR ever better than doing Exposure Stacking??

Discussion in 'Open Discussion' started by ralf-11, Nov 8, 2018.

  1. ralf-11

    ralf-11 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jan 16, 2017
    someone I respect as a photog & Lumix user told me that HRD is better sometimes - he has a G9 (among other bodies)

    I'm wondering what others have found?
    • Agree Agree x 1
  2. Not sure why "HDR" is in the title and "HRD" is in the body of the thread but if he's recommending HDR, I don't get it? HDR is used for difficult lighting situations not DOF which is what stacking is used for or am I missing something?
  3. JLGF1

    JLGF1 Mu-43 Veteran

    Oct 20, 2017
    It sounds like you are confusing focus stacking with exposure stacking.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Thanks. Now I get it. (I think) Combining bracketed exposure? That would be HDR in my book
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. JLGF1

    JLGF1 Mu-43 Veteran

    Oct 20, 2017
    HDR has a tone-mapping step which the former would not. With some HDR software the tone-mapping can be disabled.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  6. I've never liked the output from any HDR, in camera or otherwise... the tone mapping just looks wrong to me (even if subtle). I always preferred manually processing RAWs.
  7. cluber77

    cluber77 Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 6, 2013
    Can someone please give me tips how to do HDR photography on the GX80?
  8. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 21, 2013
    N Essex, UK
    HDR can be done subtly so it works better than any one exposure alone, but all too often it's terribly overdone - leaving a result WORSE than any shot that's only out by 1-2 stops!
  9. Turbofrog

    Turbofrog Mu-43 Legend

    Mar 21, 2014
    Have you tried using Lightroom's HDR, which produces a high-bit DNG that you then edit just like a regular RAW file?

    I find that the tone curve generally produces quite natural results. My problem with it is that I tend not to use a tripod, and the images that I want HDR for tend to have tons of incredibly fine detail (i.e. moving leaves in a landscape) and so there are always problematic artifacts produced by the stacking that ruin the result.

    But for more static or distant landscapes (mountains and deserts?) I could see it working really very well.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  10. Yes I have, and I didn't like it. I always just got better results by using the original well exposed shot. Now pushing shadows gives a lot of noise but stacking overcomes this a lot.
  11. Turbofrog

    Turbofrog Mu-43 Legend

    Mar 21, 2014
    Do you process your images from Kandao Raw+ in Lightroom?
  12. ACR, but same difference really. You just get a DNG with the same camera colour profiles and EXIF that you can run back through to do your PP.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  13. barry13

    barry13 Mu-43.com Editor Subscribing Member

    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Hi, what shutter mode do you use when shooting for Kandao, and do you do it handheld?

    e.g. electronic shutter and high-speed burst seems like it might be best, or is there a way to get it to shoot 8 or so frames exactly? Obviously this depends on the camera... I have an E-M1 mk1.
    • Useful Useful x 1
  14. I'm using an E-M1 Mk1 as well. I use sequential high but with mechanical shutter. There is too much rolling shutter with the Mk1 electronic shutter, plus with AC lights there's banding.

    I do it hand-held with IBIS. It's hard to count out the number of shots, Kandao accepts up to 16 frames, but I sometimes overshoot. In those cases I just take out the ones with the most camera movement relative to the others (usually the first or last ones).
    • Informative Informative x 2
  15. Jeffcs

    Jeffcs Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Jan 20, 2017
    Toms River NJ
    Jeffrey Swank
    I’m a user of exposure bracketing I use apture priority so the relative DOF doesn’t change like wjiang states high speed mechanical shutter allowing camera to adjust shutter speed 2 under 1 metered 2 over
  16. User ID

    User ID New to Mu-43

    Sep 1, 2018

    I love tone mapping. But then I'm image-oriented.
    I'm quite happy to start with a very obviously tone
    mapped image, and then to deconstruct it and then
    reconstruct it. But it suits me as I was also trained
    in the art/craft of technical painting, building up a
    realistic image in progressive layers. It's how I see
    stuff. I see any scene before me as a foundation,
    not as something to be collected and then possibly

    So, in answer to the thread title, I'd say it depends
    on whether you just need to deal with a deficiency
    in your camera's range, or are into crafting images
    from "raw material" that's nominally your "subject".

    Last edited: Nov 11, 2018
    • Agree Agree x 2
    • Like Like x 1
  17. ToxicTabasco

    ToxicTabasco Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jul 2, 2018
    South West USA
    With Paintshop Pro their is exposure merge. Which is like HDR but can also create a natural look to wild and crazy. Thus, when the scene is High Dynamic like sunsets I use the exposure bracket mode to pop off 5 shots for exposure merge later. And in some cases, a single shot in LR will do just fine. But always good to have 5 shots to play with in post editing. In camera HDR is something I've never used. But, will try someday.
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