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Interpreting Lens Markings

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by Cruzan80, May 13, 2013.

  1. Cruzan80

    Cruzan80 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 23, 2012
    Denver, Co
    Sean Rastsmith
    Hey All,

    Have a few questions about some of the lenses that I have. One is a JCPenny 80-200 3.9, one is an Auto Vivitar telephoto 135 2.8 and the other is a Tokina SZ-X 35-70 3.5-4.6.

    On the JCPenny (larger one), there is a red arc with an R next to it. It gets wider (only to the right) as the zoom goes in (80 is larger than 200). The ft measurements are also in red, but not sure if it is related. The arc goes towards the top of the picture. Sorry for the fading, these are OOC jpegs, and it is very sunny right now.

    tumblr_mmqojxQn6J1rkpvlwo1_500.

    On the Vivitar, the aperture dial turns two ways. They both start at 2.8, but one has a setting for 4, then has 5.6 in orange. The other way has 2.8 (but smaller), and then 5.6 is the next step. From 8-22, they perform the same on either side.

    tumblr_mmqojxQn6J1rkpvlwo2_500.

    On the Tokina, there are two aperture dials, right on top of each other. They rotate together (not preset), and there is a smaller marking to the right of it. I think this is so you can tell the aperture when zoomed in (but the bottom row isn't offset at all). If so, I would think that the bottom row would start at 4.6 and go up from there, so I can tell at each end of the zoom. On the focus rail, there is a white line, as well as two red lines that are marked 35 and 70. When I have it set on 35 or 70, does it measure off the red line or the white? If the red, when exactly do I use the white (guessing around 55-60mm, as that is the smallest it gets).

    tumblr_mmqojxQn6J1rkpvlwo3_500.
     
  2. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    the red lines are for when shooting with Infrared Film. Use the white lines

    The two rows of aperture numbers may be related to a system on some old film slrs that allowed the aperture number to be displayed in the VF. I know older Nikon lenses have something like this, there may have been other systems... you dont say what the native mount is for these lenses

    the two way aperture ring does have me baffled though

    cheers

    K
     
  3. Cruzan80

    Cruzan80 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 23, 2012
    Denver, Co
    Sean Rastsmith
    Sorry, all of these are for MD mount. The Vivitar is a modular adapter (has a spot to remove it, and swap another). Not sure exactly which one it would be for.

    Kevin, when you say to use the white lines, I am guessing you mean for the Tokina, not the JCPenny, right?
     
  4. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    No...always use the white lines - the JCPenny as it is shown is focussed on infinity for normal light

    K
     
  5. Dan Ka

    Dan Ka Mu-43 Regular

    128
    Jan 11, 2011
    Northeastern Ohio
    The Vivitar is an adapted lens that is the reason for the dual aperture markings. The camera mount mount determines which aperture scale to use. If the scale turns in both directions with the adapter on, then the adapter is not properly mounted. But, that may not matter since it adapts to the auto function for the film camera. I can see that it is not a TX adapter (I have 3) so it may be a T4 or earlier. The green scale is used for Minolta. If the aperture ring goes from full open to max. close in either direction, you may be ok. Here is a link to the mount directions for a T4 adapter, yours looks different, but, at least it may give you some insight.

    Vivitar T-4 lens mount system instruction manual, user manual Send Mr. Butkis $2 if you want, I have found his manuals well worth the low coxt.
     
  6. Cruzan80

    Cruzan80 Mu-43 All-Pro

    Aug 23, 2012
    Denver, Co
    Sean Rastsmith
    Well, after following the directions, it only turns towards the green mountings. Guess I will just have to guess where f4 is (for some reason it skips from 2.8 to 5.6 on the green ones). Thanks for the info on that.

    So for the rest of the markings, anything red is for IR shooting, and white is for visible light? If so, I need to fine-tune the Tokina (focuses past infinity by quite a bit).