Importance of OIS?

[GKTodd]

Curious what the prevailing thoughts are on OIS? I'm considering a zoom lens for my G5 to shoot quick-moving toddlers and their eventual growth into sports, etc.

Today the Olympus 40-150 just went on sale for $119. I've read that this lens (for the price) does an excellent job and takes very sharp pics. The Panny equivalent is the 45-150 at $239. After doing some research, it appears that the main difference is the Panny has OIS.

So my question: is it worth the extra $100-150 for the OIS given that my G5 body doesn't do it?

 

[yakky]

If you are shooting pics of toddlers or sports, you should already be in a shutter speed range that negates the need for OIS.

 

[ean10775]

If you are shooting pics of toddlers or sports, you should already be in a shutter speed range that negates the need for OIS.

This. OIS prevents image blur that results from the camera moving, not the subject. If your toddler or athlete are moving you need ensure you're shooting with a fast enough shutter speed to stop the action.

 

[Boatman]

This is not a particularly fast lens and I think you will find that you need stabilization at least at the longer lengths of the zoom - say over 80mm. $119 is an attractive price but it may not be a good match on a camera without IBS.

 

[gugarci]

Having OIS/IBIS is important for those times you can't use a faster shutter speed. But like it's been said it will not stop movement. And IMO you are better off bumping the ISO if you need to secure a faster shutter speed. If I was you I would get the lens with OIS, But if it's not possible that Olympus 40-150 is a really good inexpensive lens. I have one my self.

 

[Kwekwe]

I like my Pansonic 45-175mm but as mentioned not a fast lens by any means. Got it dirt cheap, seller said the shutter occasionally "stuck" I think it was simply auto everything and a looooong exposure as I've yet to have a problem with it.

 

[RRRoger]

The OIS is not worth much to me, but
the faster/more accurate focusing of a Pany lens with my GH4 is.

 

[Wisertime]

Best lens IQ in the lineup for $/lb. I wouldn't worry about the OIS. It might not be your most used lens, but for the price you should own one. Get a 25mm or 45mm F1.8 too. You won't regret it.

 

[ahinesdesign]

OIS (and IBIS) is beneficial in many cases, but like everyone said it doesn't make up for a faster shutter speed when you need to stop motion.

The 40-150mm is a great bargain (have one myself that I use on a G5) but it needs a lot of light or high ISO to be used handheld very effectively. Even outdoors under bright sunlight I'll rarely drop below ISO 400, and often 800 if I'm shooting my kids running around... Indoors it needs monopod/tripod support, but you'll still have difficulty stopping subject motion unless you use stratospheric ISOs...

My experience with the 12-35mm (Power OIS) on a G5 is that it is very effective, but still doesn't stop subject motion when a faster shutter speed is needed. I have a bunch of images pf sharp scenes and blurred people...


Sent from my iPhone using Mu-43

 

[GKTodd]

Thanks for all the feedback! Sounds like OIS is helpful, but higher SS provides the bigger bang (even if having to bump up the ISO).

 

[drpump]

I think OIS is useful at longer focal lengths for relatively static subjects. I've found motion blur to be a much bigger problem for me than camera shake, and as others have noted, the only way to deal with that is to use a high shutter speed.

In your situation, I'd buy the Olympus lens and think about using the change to buy a tripod or monopod.

 

[Livnius]

With regards to this particular shooting scenario....shooting fast movement/sports then I'd absolutely agree that high shutter speeds are very important and are required to freeze the action, in which case IBIS and OIS are not important factors....BUT, I imagine that at some point you will use the lens to shoot other subjects (landscape, architecture, general/travel) where maximizing shutter speed is not the priority and you may also find yourself using the lens in situations where light may be less than ideal.....for all of these other shooting situations given you use a G5 the Panasonic 45-150 will be your better otpion simply bacause it has something your camera body doesn't have...IS.

If you plan to use the lens ONLY for sports (high shutter speeds)...then yeah, go for the cheaper option.....but if you plan on using the lens for other types of photography then IMO getting the lens with IS is the better option. I think the extra few bucks buys you so much more versatility.

 

[GKTodd]

This is an excellent point. It would be a shame to have a zoom lens and be limited in how I use it over ~$100 bucks, especially when the entry cost for a new lens is so much higher. According to camelcamelcamel Amazon had the 45-150 at $169 in Oct 2013, so might be just a matter of waiting for it to drop again. (sigh!)

With regards to this particular shooting scenario....shooting fast movement/sports then I'd absolutely agree that high shutter speeds are very important and are required to freeze the action, in which case IBIS and OIS are not important factors....BUT, I imagine that at some point you will use the lens to shoot other subjects (landscape, architecture, general/travel) where maximizing shutter speed is not the priority and you may also find yourself using the lens in situations where light may be less than ideal.....for all of these other shooting situations given you use a G5 the Panasonic 45-150 will be your better otpion simply bacause it has something your camera body doesn't have...IS.

If you plan to use the lens ONLY for sports (high shutter speeds)...then yeah, go for the cheaper option.....but if you plan on using the lens for other types of photography then IMO getting the lens with IS is the better option. I think the extra few bucks buys you so much more versatility.

 

[T N Args]

yep, I agree with drpump for your specific purpose. Especially since I suspect that you are asking because the $120 difference is important to you -- fair enough too.

In general, however, for a long lens like 150mm, the IS is nice for composition because the monitor image can get quite shaky.

 

[Jason Stamper]

I have an adapted Canon FD 135mm lens that I regularly get good results out of on my g5. No OIS on that one, and for lower light or more static subjects I either find something to help steady myself, tree, wall, etc, or just go for it. Sure I get some shots with camera shake, but I get a lot of really sharp ones too. I actually have the Panny 45-150, it is good, but I like the results and user experience better with the canon. OIS is great, but if you can't swing it I would not worry too much about it.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

 

[iliyanb]

Image stabilization is only useful if you are not following an object with the camera. In case you do that in sports photography in example, and the in-body or in-lens stabilization is switched on, sometimes results might not be good. For me IS is useful only in low light and for static objects and static camera.

 

[Jason Stamper]

Here's a shot out of my non-stabilized Canon FD 135mm. I did shoot this sorta outside, it was one of those pavilion tents, and the subject's face was in the shadows. I think it came out pretty good, but the light was good too. I am getting where I can get decent handheld shots from about 1/30 sec and up. Any less and all bets are off. Oh and I shot this from about 30 feet away with my son on my lap. Might have just been lucky too!

One place the OIS would really help me is in focusing, it can be a bit tricky focusing that 135 with the live view bouncing around since I have to MF this lens.

ISO 160, 1/125th sec f5.6

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)

 

[barry]

Image stabilization is only useful if you are not following an object with the camera. In case you do that in sports photography in example, and the in-body or in-lens stabilization is switched on, sometimes results might not be good.

Hi, fwiw the E-M1 has 'panning IBIS' as an option.

Barry

 

[RRRoger]

Hi, fwiw the E-M1 has 'panning IBIS' as an option.

Barry

So do my Nikkors, but if you are good at panning you do not need it nor a high shutter speed.
I used to sell photos that had purposely streaked backgounds to make the Athlete look like they were moving really fast.
Typicall shutter speed was 30 to 120s and VR was off.

 

[Fri13]

Image stabilization is only useful if you are not following an object with the camera. In case you do that in sports photography in example, and the in-body or in-lens stabilization is switched on, sometimes results might not be good. For me IS is useful only in low light and for static objects and static camera.

That can be usefully as panning usually goes vertically or horizontally so Mode 2 or Mode2/3 are helping.