Can you explain the distinction between curious "yellow" and "blue"? I'm not familiar with those terms.
I have shot enough with a digital Leica to disabuse myself of any notion that there's something I'm missing out on there — or at least enough to justify the outlay. Kinda hoping to do the same with Fuji.
The problem with renting is that I'm too cheap to toss $200 into a two-week loaner. I'd rather make an investment upfront (at a good used price). If I like it, I can hold onto it; if I don't, I can flip it (and hopefully be out less than $200 for my trouble).
Great and very thorough answer here. Thank you!Keith
Just my own experience with both systems:
in short I would be looking for something that Fuji is known for and is unique to see if that appeals to you, hence of the three I would go with the X100 series, frankly I would maybe pick up a used X100T to test the waters. there is one available on FredMiranda for $450 (no relation to seller), they can be had for a modest sum.. You wouldn't be out much if its not for you. Just recognize that the AF and sensor are a few generations behind the X100V, but you get the goodness of the OVF and film sims, and manual controls. If you don't like these features, then i don't think Fuji has much to offer you over Oly, in the same way that if someone does not value size and IBIS, Im not sure I would steer them to m43
Great and very thorough answer here. Thank you!
I did go to a local store and played around with an X100T and X100V at least enough to learn that they felt sufficiently ergonomic that I think I could grow to like that style. Unfortunately I wasn't able to find any local retailer with an X-H1 in stock, so wasn't able to scratch that itch.
I think I agree that the X-E series probably isn't worth considering at this point. I didn't really feel any "spark" with the couple of bodies I fondled. Maybe it would be something I'd consider down the line if I develop a case of Fuji Fever.
So now I'm leaning toward an affordable X100*, preferably in black. I saw one possible candidate on FM, but it has 30K shutter actuations, which worries me a bit. Anyone know what sort of life expectancy one can expect from the shutter on these?
Definitely, if you want a way to spend all your discretionary money, Leica is the way to go.I guess that if I wanted prestige or even wished the chance to just spend all my discretionary dollars, Leica would be the way to go.
I saw one possible candidate on FM, but it has 30K shutter actuations, which worries me a bit. Anyone know what sort of life expectancy one can expect from the shutter on these?
Since buying a heavily marked-down X10 (2/3" sensor compact with manual 28-112mm zoom) in 2015, I've been bewitched by Fujifilm X cameras.
The Fuji camera I have kept and love is the compact X30, the third generation of my first little X10, as it has my favourite Classic Chrome film simulation, which is as customisable as the ILC APSC bodies of its time, but with a PSAM dial and IBIS.
Very interesting that the initial lenses give a different look than the others. I hadn't heard this previously, but I'll keep it in mind.If I wanted to dip my toes in Fuji land I'd suggest an ILC you're going to use in a variety of situations and a few primes that support how you shoot. Fuji, without note, has 2 XF lens renders. The initial trio (35/1.4, 18/2 and 60/2.4). These have the render that put Fuji on the map. The rest of the line has a more modern draw. Neither is right or wrong, just know they are different.
I certainly don't need the higher resolution. But I think I'm leaning toward one of the options with the hybrid (OVF/EVF) viewfinder as this is a point of differentiation from what's offered in m43.Bodies: Do you need 25mp? If not, an XE2 or and XT1. Gorgeous in hand, lovely to shoot. EVF size and tilt LCD being the major differences, more so than the physical design. If you want 25mp, XT2 maybe XE3 if you can live with the evf. I consider my GX80/85/9 evf's a step up from my XE's.
I've found this always to be good advice. Lenses also hold their value better than bodies.I view Fuji bodies near irrelevant to the lens line. Put your money in the latter.
This last bit is incredibly useful. I found myself always having to look up the order of the various models as I was looking through online listings. I wonder if it's just a mnemonic developed after the fact or if this naming convention is by design.Believe me, I have lost whole weeks to this topic! From the multitude of reviews and forums I've read, and podcast episodes I've listened to, the X100 series is a common "gateway drug" into the Fujifilm system, and the latest X100V is much loved for upgrades over the F. I've never owned one, as I don't care for the 35mm field of view.
Fun fact: in the model naming convention (X100S, X100T, X100F & X100V), S=second, T=third, F=fourth, V=fifth.
I also don't really want to give up IBIS. That's the main reason I had the X-H1 in my initial short list even though I'm not sure I want a body that's larger than my E-M1. The film simulations are a big draw.I am a micro four thirds devotee, but a Fujifilm tragic. Since buying a heavily marked-down X10 (2/3" sensor compact with manual 28-112mm zoom) in 2015, I've been bewitched by Fujifilm X cameras, but despite owning several ILCs (XE1, XE2, XT1, XT100, XT20), none of them has felt as good in my hand as my mu43 cameras. The thing which keeps me circling is my love of the JPEG film simulations, and how customisable they are, especially on later models. If not for these, I wouldn't keep trying. I wanted to love the analogue dials, but in real use I prefer a PASM mode dial (PSAM on Fuji bodies with one) and can't manage without IBIS, which is frequently claimed to be surpassed by mu43 IBIS.
Great resource! There's a lot to play with there.
The X-S10 is different from the "classic" Fuji X ILC bodies in that it uses the PASM control layout instead of the retro dials. It also has control presets (eg: custom settings like on your Olympus) which is something the classic Fuji X cameras do not (much to my annoyance). It's also not weather resistant but it does have in-body stabilization where the X100V does not.Curious what differences (beyond focal length) there are between this combo and the X100V.
The initial trio of Fujifilm primes, the 35mm f1.4, 56mm f1.2 and 23mm f1.4 are usually dearly mentioned within the Fujifilm community, with especially the 35 and 56 being often mentioned as "magical". I can't comment on that myself, however for sure there is a visible difference between f1.4/f1.2 and f2 in terms of dof. However these lenses are also supposed to have a unique color and contrast rendering. I've researched about the 23 f1.4 quite a bit because I had it on my own shortlist, that one however seems to be the trio's oddball, with a fairly large copy-to-copy variation. Some people claimed they had to go through multiple samples of the lens until they've found a good one. The downside of these lenses are the fairly loud and slow AF, especially on older camera bodies. The 56 1.2 in particular is often called difficult to focus, not only being on the slow side, but also tends to hunt and not always really nail the focus to where you'd like it to be, so it's clearly not a lens when you want to rely on fast and accurate AF.Very interesting that the initial lenses give a different look than the others. I hadn't heard this previously, but I'll keep it in mind.
I think the OVF feature also has something to do with that noise since the camera always seems to default to hiding the EVF panel whenever it can.Personally I enjoy the option to use the OVF on both the X100V and X-Pro3, although I clearly state I'm using the EVF about 95% of the time, there are still moments and situations where I either prefer the OVF or simply feel like using it just for fun. It is a feature you'd find nowhere else on the market. There are more things which make the X100V an interesting package:
Can be easily made weather resistent, the 4-stop ND filter (which can be enabled either via menus, Q-menu, the front lever or an assigned button) is nice to have, the leaf-shutter is essentially silent and offers a flash-sync of up to 1/1000s of a second. The major downside in my opinion is: While the shutter is silent, the rest of the camera is not, something is always clicking, buzzing or whirring, even if you just scroll through all the menus.