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Ideal camera settings (E-PL1 or others)

Discussion in 'Filmmaking' started by Rider, Oct 21, 2010.

  1. Rider

    Rider Mu-43 Regular

    139
    Oct 14, 2010
    Of course most picture quality settings don't matter when shooting RAW. Was wondering whether people have preferences for these settings in order to make post-processing the video as easy as possible:

    Contrast
    Saturation
    Sharpening
    White Balance
    Picture Mode (natural, portrait, muted, vivid, nature etc.)
     
  2. compositor20

    compositor20 Mu-43 Regular

    32
    Oct 21, 2010
    contrast -1 it helps a little with overexposed areas and with shadow areas without being too washed out like the -2 setting

    saturation 0 (saturation at -1 looks a little more faithfull but if you dont want to post process leave it at 0 but i cant draw fair conclusions regarding saturation)

    picture mode normal (muted has a little more dynamic range but colors are less accurate than normal mode)

    sharpness 0 (e-pl1 has very good control of aliasing so leave it there since it is olympus sharpening, but if you are producing for TV or paying projects leave it at -2 and sharpen at taste but im pleased with olympus sharpening, but more than 0 leaves visible halos)

    here is the setting that affects more video mode : noise filter, set it to off in daylight and if you cant leave with grain in low light use it at low, but not at normal since normal gets texture detail to look like mud/plastic look)

    you will be amazed with the added detail of OFF noise filter

    autofocus mode is important use af-s and use the recording mode to refocus at will and then you have the FN button to autoexposure lock (this is good for amateur daylight video), for peolpls faces you might want to use afc-tracking and for aproaching camera videos the af-c but i think they are not usefull and should be used with center point autofocus

    in low light use afs-manual focus , first you autofocus then you adjust with manual focus (i have the 20mm f1.7 lens and it works well you can follow focus easy but sometimes you get lost because of screen resolution being low and you have to refocus with the record button


    hope it helps (olympus e-pl1 is a very good 720p with no colour moiré and very little aliasing (some rainbows ocasionally but they are not purple orange like in olympus e-p1) and dynamic range seems improved compared with e-p1, although it looks less sharp than e-p1, the detail that you see is real and not aliased one that looks horrible in landscapes and city views with electrical wires and roofs

    it has good detail retention at high iso (olympus jpg engine is good) it would only need 3 things in the future: 1080p, more space efficient codec and better algorithm for continous autofocus
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Rider

    Rider Mu-43 Regular

    139
    Oct 14, 2010
    Thank you for the detailed response! For manually focusing the 20mm/1.7, do you find the LCD screen adequate, or have you tried the EVF?
     
  4. Rider

    Rider Mu-43 Regular

    139
    Oct 14, 2010
    Sorry, two more questions: since you have contrast -1, I assume you have Gradation set at Normal?

    What do you think of "Portrait" mode for video?
     
  5. compositor20

    compositor20 Mu-43 Regular

    32
    Oct 21, 2010
    well manual focus for video in low light is possible with the lcd but you must do an effort to accomplish that!, its not easy and sometimes you hunt like the camera (you go back and forward because you dont really knwow if you are at the sharpest spot and want to fine tune so there is not that focus pulling like in movies where they always get it to the right spot i have to hunt but its possible) with vf-2 should be easy but i dont have one.

    contrast-1 with gradation normal (however if you really want to have extended dynamic range (both in highlights and shadows like in a sunset scene) and dont mind the noise in the shadows (migh use normal noise filter) it really improves dynamic range i just dont use it because i use noise filter at off and that means gradation auto in video mode means noise

    portrait mode probably gives you the best colours in both skintones and overall but it just brightens the midtones and highlights and shadows too its not bad i havent take conclusive comparisons but the images becomes a little washed out in portrait mode but if it doesnt clip highlights it might be worthy but you cant use contrast -1 with that mode
     
  6. Rider

    Rider Mu-43 Regular

    139
    Oct 14, 2010
    Thanks again! Why can't you lower contrast in portrait mode? The option is there, and I didn't see anything in the manual about it.
     
  7. compositor20

    compositor20 Mu-43 Regular

    32
    Oct 21, 2010
    you can but there is no visible effect in the lcd so why bother
     
  8. compositor20

    compositor20 Mu-43 Regular

    32
    Oct 21, 2010
    well yesterday i made some tests and portrait can change contrast too but you dont gain anything in the highlights out of contrast 0 (lower than that only in the shadows) so at high iso contrast 0 and at low iso contrast -1 with natural or muted (muted looks to have a different tone curve or clarity adjustment but is subtle)