IBIS: Three axis (E-M10) vs five axis (E-M1) for long telephoto?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Klorenzo, Jan 5, 2016.

  1. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    Ok, I'm just looking for an excuse to get the E-M1 :)

    Today I took about 320 shots at 1/400s at 300mm. I'd say that 90% of them were blurry, from slightly to junk. The only thing that made a little difference was shooting below 150mm.

    I did my best to stay steady in a standing position with EVF. I know I could use a tripod, lean on a tree, crawl in the mud :), etc. but I was trying to see what I could get with semi-casual shooting.

    IBIS on the camera works fine, yesterday I took a few shots at 1/13 with the O60 with just a couple of blurry ones.

    I've seen several perfect shots in the showcase thread shot at 1/60 or similar shutter speeds.

    Could be the IBIS making the difference? Does anybody had the occasion to compare a three axis camera to any five-axis one?
  2. Growltiger

    Growltiger Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 26, 2014
    I take plenty of sharp photos at 300mm with the E-M1, but I start with a shutter speed of 1/1000.
    The IBIS is very helpful at letting me keep the bird steady in the viewfinder.
  3. Kazooless

    Kazooless Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 5, 2015
    Jeff Kazules
    I've got an excuse for you: It's the best Oly camera you can get! :D

    Seriously, 1/400 has never been a problem for me with my E-M1 if the subject isn't moving. I can't say I've compared with 3-axis though. I did have the E-620 and don't remember complaining at those speeds either though.

    I have a friend who had an old Panasonic m4/3 camera with no EVF. When I got the E-M1 I told him about it and he was very interested but it took him a year to finally decide and buy it. Once he did, he kicked himself for not getting it sooner. He still mentions that to me and even jokes with me "Why didn't you make me get this camera sooner!" he asks. LOL
    • Appreciate Appreciate x 1
  4. b_rubenstein

    b_rubenstein Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 20, 2012
    Melbourne, FL
    I have an E-M10 & E-M1 and before the release of FW V4 for the E-M1 I would have said that there wasn't much difference. (I use the 75-300II all the time.) However, the new firmware improved the IBIS and eliminated shutter shock and now makes the E-M1 noticeably better.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  5. Whtrbt7

    Whtrbt7 Mu-43 Veteran

    Jan 7, 2014
    E-M1 + monopod + IBIS + Long Lens = one of the best long distance cameras money can buy. My longest focal length is 150mm + the 1.4 TC. Shutter speeds should normally be 1/FL but you can shoot about 1-2 stops lower with IBIS. I would still keep the shutter speed fairly fast (within 1 stop of 1/FL) just because what you are shooting will probably be moving and you need to snap the shot quickly.
  6. pellicle

    pellicle Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Feb 10, 2010
    Southport, OzTrailEYa
    while I'm not an Oly owner :
    1. was it a legacy lens
    2. if yes was the parameter set to allow the camera to know the focal length
    I'm not sure the other axes as I would epect that the monopod would reduce to nothing their influence.
  7. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    @pellicle@pellicle Yes, I forgot about the lens, was the Oly 75-300 II.

    @b_rubenstein@b_rubenstein what shutter speeds can you confidently use with the 75-300 fully extended?

    I've got a few good ones at 1/100s, even 1/60s but it feels more like luck that something you can count on. So I expected that moving to 1/250s first and 1/400s later would really improve things but it didn't. One could see this as a proof that IBIS works fine, but does not solve my problem.

    Maybe IBIS is not fast enough to work above a certain shutter speed so there is a kind of a dead zone where IBIS is gone and speed is not fast enough for itself?

    I did a few test on static subjects with the same results. In a six shots burst at 275mm, 1/400s I have just one good shot.
  8. b_rubenstein

    b_rubenstein Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 20, 2012
    Melbourne, FL
    At 300mm I've gotten some shots at 1/60 and most at 1/125 are good. With the E-M10, you want 0 sec. delay enabled for EFC to reduce/remove shutter shock. It only works up to 1/320 sec. which works much better than 1/400.
  9. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    Yes, that could be a part of the puzzle. And another thing came to my mind: there is a quite strange default setting that disables IBIS during burst mode. This option is in the C menu', the

    [burst symbol] + IS off

    this needs to be set to Off to benefit from IBIS in burst mode (it has precedence on what is displayed in the SCP). I wonder of there is also some "fps limit" to really benefit from IBIS.

    All considered 200/320 is probably the best compromise for "slow speed" tele shooting (when struggling to keep ISO low or stopping down the lens).
  10. GBarrington

    GBarrington Mu-43 Top Veteran

    I can't speak to the 5 axis experience, since I've never used it. But objectively speaking, the E-M10's 3 axis IS is REALLY good with my longer lenses. But then again, I grew up with no axis IS that came with 3 legs! So my ability to differentiate may be skewed!

    I suspect you are agonizing over a decision point that is comparing a really good feature with a similar really, really good feature.
  11. Fred S

    Fred S Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 20, 2012
    Fred S
    I have NO problems with my EM-10 at 200 to 300mm
    I am NOT Steady Freddy so the best I can do at 300mm shutter 400
    I keep the shutter at 800+

    252mm shutter 800 25% crop

    • Like Like x 1
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