IBIS on EM-1 at 105mm and beyond.

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by nemezote, May 9, 2015.

  1. nemezote

    nemezote New to Mu-43

    5
    May 8, 2015
    Hello everyone, I did a search on the forums for this, but I could not really find the info I'm looking for.

    Anyway, I got a FF system, 5D MkIII and so on. But I just recently sold my backup 70D and bought an EM-1 with 12-40 instead. On the grounds that I'd take it out more since its smaller. Also I was really hooked into some of the tech, like EVFs, IBIS and so on.

    Anyway, I'm getting sharp images at around 1/6th of a second on my MkIII at 105mm.

    Most of the results I've seen for the EM-1 IBIS were at the wide end of the spectrum, very little info of how it performs at tele.

    What kind of images are you folks getting at (around) 105mm and 1/6th of a second?

    Or, how low did you manage to get sharp images at telephoto lengths and with which lens?

    Thanks you so much for your help.
     
  2. Growltiger

    Growltiger Mu-43 Top Veteran

    653
    Mar 26, 2014
    UK
    I have had sharp shots with the 12-40 set to 40, at 1/10. That is 80mm equivalent FOV compared to your 105.

    I can give you an extreme example. I use it with the 75-300 II, at 300mm, handheld. So that is an equivalent FOV to 600mm full frame. Without IBIS on you can't easily even find what you want to take in the viewfinder! With IBIS on you can. At 1/1000 sec a good proportion of shots are sharp. I have not tried slower speeds, but I'm taking moving objects.
     
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  3. nemezote

    nemezote New to Mu-43

    5
    May 8, 2015
    Thanks Growltiger, useful info so far! Looks good!

    Would you mind trying to handhold at 300mm with IBIS on and see how low you can get?

    OH! Also, I've been looking into reading up on the EM-1 and its features in particular, there are several books in amazon and many websites, I was wondering which ones in particular would you guys recommend.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2015
  4. piggsy

    piggsy Mu-43 All-Pro

    I've had usable photos come out of the Olympus OM 200mm f/4 at 1/100 on the E-P5 - where pretty much anything that's not usable is only because of subject motion rather than camera motion. That definitely seems to be the cutoff though, 1/80 is a step too far.

    Should also note that there may be some masking effect on this lens by it not exactly being pin-sharp to begin with, and when I've been there I've also had it at f/4 which brings its own issues. But. Certainly good enough for web I think.
     
  5. sesser

    sesser Zen Master

    490
    Mar 10, 2015
    Portland, OR
    randy
    Don't forget to set the focal length if you're using a lens with out electronic coupling. When you select the IBIS method, hit the INFO button to change the mm setting. In case you're not... I missed this for a while too with my E-M1 using old OM mount lenses.
     
  6. piggsy

    piggsy Mu-43 All-Pro

    Me? Yeah, I have that set. 9 settings below what I should technically be using is about as much as I expect out of it :D
     
  7. sesser

    sesser Zen Master

    490
    Mar 10, 2015
    Portland, OR
    randy
    Well, the OP, really, but if it helps you too, then I guess two birds..
     
  8. nemezote

    nemezote New to Mu-43

    5
    May 8, 2015
    Yeah, thanks. I'd be using it with MFT lenses, so that would not be a problem. I was actually wondering how low could one handhold the 40-150 2.8 set to 150mm. Judging from the claimed 4 stops it would be somewhere around 1/20th. I was just looking for someone to confirm that.
     
  9. lightmonkey

    lightmonkey Mu-43 Veteran

    480
    Dec 22, 2013
    confirmed

    at 150mm on em1+40-150pro combination 1/20th is right at the edge of handholdability
     
  10. Growltiger

    Growltiger Mu-43 Top Veteran

    653
    Mar 26, 2014
    UK
    OK. I have done a sequence of tests with that lens, the 75-300 II, at both its shortest and longest focal length. I took four photos at each focal length. The table shows the number that were sharp, when viewed at 100%.

    75mm
    1000 4
    500 4
    250 4
    125 3
    60 4
    30 1
    15 0
    8 0
    4 0

    300mm
    2000 4
    1000 3
    500 3
    250 3
    125 3
    60 1
    30 0
    15 0
    8 0

    The traditional rule of thumb was to go no slower than the FF equivalent focal length. With digital the rule of thumb changed to double that number because of the higher resolution. So for the 75mm it would be 1/300 (75*2*2) and for the 300mm it would be 1/1200 (300*2*2).

    The results above suggest for the 75mm a reasonable setting would be 1/60 and for the 300mm it would be 1/125, so IBIS is doing well.

    The test is not that accurate, as my hands shake randomly. I think it shows that IBIS doesn't guarantee that any one shot will be sharp, it just increases the chances a lot.

    It confirms that I am sensible to continue to use 1/1000 and Sequential-H to take short bursts, when taking pictures of birds at 300mm, as some photos will be sharper than others, and birds move.

    It shows that with a stationary subject one can take a sequence at a slower speed, perhaps 1/250 and still have a good chance of a sharp photo.

    I hope you find this useful.
     
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  11. nemezote

    nemezote New to Mu-43

    5
    May 8, 2015
    Yup, that about does it.

    Thanks Growltiger!
     
  12. MAubrey

    MAubrey Photographer

    Jul 9, 2012
    Bellingham, WA
    Mike Aubrey
    I've shot as lower as 1/5th at 45mm (=90mm-e) pretty regularly. At 75mm (150mm-e), the lowest I have is 1/10th. At 135mm (270mm-e), I've shot sharp images at 1/15th of a second. That's more than 4 stops against the standard 1/equivalent focal length rule. Much longer than that, I normally see around three stops improvement (e.g. 200mm/400mm-e at 1/40th).
     
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