It takes practice and some techniques, but it is not impossible.How hard is it to get sharp focus with a manual lens shooting birds?
I disagree. In fact, I feel much like I do about auto-focus — a tripod gets in the way!Tripod is mandatory for unstabilized lens at 300mm
2 weeks ago I bought a Beroflex 500mm and taught myself to photograph a Kestrel in a loft from a tripod and with the help of the phone Phone App.If you're really keen on a manual focus lens with reach, for birding, then you could try a 500mm mirror lens. But don't buy a cheap one. The best value for money is probably the OM 500/8 Reflex, or the Yashica ML 500/8. Not far behind in IQ but much cheaper is the Tokina RMC 500/8. I use one occasionally on the E-M5 II. IBIS is a must, but even so, sharp focus is a challenge.
That is SHARP. With that weight, AND manual focus? Wow.It takes practice and some techniques, but it is not impossible.
In fact, I find the "hunting" of automatic focus to be a hindrance. Whenever I start to press the shutter, the lens makes some tiny adjustment, and my keeper rate with auto-focus is actually fewer than with manual focus!
If the bird is flitting about, perhaps auto-focus is a benefit. But otherwise, you can "set and forget" focus and then concentrate on composition, position, etc.
I disagree. In fact, I feel much like I do about auto-focus — a tripod gets in the way!
I prefer a monopod with IBIS. The monopod allows the utmost in re-positionability while supporting the weight.
Here's what you can do with a 4kg 350mm manual-focus lens on a monopod:View attachment 809923
Looks like you're having fun with that lens.The question whether Birding is something for me is becoming increasingly clear.
Several of you gave me the advice that patience is a virtue and between the lines it was also often stated that Autofocus is not a must at Birding.
I want to thank all of you again for that feedback and add in addition to patience that you should also be ready when the opportunity arises.
All in all, the beroflex 500 gives me a lot of room to practice, I have to say that the peaking function of the E-PL8is fine for focusing. In the late afternoon sunlight I saw a nice stripe of speckles across the grass that reflected where the focus is and I am satisfied enough with the sharpness.
The lens gives a lot of chromatic aberration, but that also seems to me something that I can live with. Overall I am the most pleased with the contrast and color tone that the Beroflex 500 creates.
Sometimes its very difficult to get the AF to cooperate when the bird is in dense branches and th e AF can pick all sorts of branches to focus on even with AF zones it grabs the wrong thing...How hard is it to get sharp focus with a manual lens shooting birds? I've always wondered how wildlife photographers use manual lenses.
Ik heb mijn O 300 van Catawiki voor rond de € 125. Op EBAY durven ze tot € 600 te vragen.If I come across one on marktplaats (dutch ebay) for a softer price, I will definitely consider that Olympus 300mm 4.5.
My interest in MFT started when I figured out what I could do with my father's Minolta set. In 2011 I bought an E-PL2 and minolta af adapter. It worked but I had no control over the aperture. At the thrift shop I bought a pentacon 50 1.8 an m42 adapter and that is how my love for manual lenses started.
With the Tokina 135mm 2.8 you can very well make a half-body, shoulder-shot portrait of an artist in a band from the back of the concert hall, I prefocus on the microphone stand or something that is 1/3 distance on stage and only think about lighting and the moment the artist is in the desired place. Click.
But with such a bird, suppose you have the lighting in advance reasonably good and if you have a bird once within 4 meters, then with 2.8 aperture the depht of field is also only 7 cm. With a monopod it is quite a task to focus with a 135 mm and that is why I am thinking about buying something with Auto Focus and I am doubting between waiting for the Olympus 100-400 mm, or buying the 75-300 mm.
Yes I make a few small adjustments in Workspace and somehow I am not able to sharpen pictures pleasantly with this lens, so no no USM and sharpen -2.Looks like you're having fun with that lens.
Have you tried a bit of post-processing of your images, eg levels, sharpening ?
I'm starting to have fun going out with a 500mm f8 and will keep trying with this lens for now.Ik heb mijn O 300 van Catawiki voor rond de € 125. Op EBAY durven ze tot € 600 te vragen.
Hope it's OK with you, but here is your Greylag goose pic with a bit of contrast and sharpening added,Yes I make a few small adjustments in Workspace and somehow I am not able to sharpen pictures pleasantly with this lens, so no no USM and sharpen -2.
I'm starting to have fun going out with a 500mm f8 and will keep trying with this lens for now.
Today during my walk I encountered a Greylag goose and again the same Pheasant. Took a lightweight tripod with me and the support of 1 of the legs broke off when I was standing on uneven ground. Next time into nature with the more robust Daiwa.
View attachment 810328
It's a hefty difference in readout/display to the EVF with it on, even in good light with a fast lens. It reads out at ~60fps steady and doesn't try and massage the image based on your settings. It's slightly confusingly worded in the manual - I think it should really say "selecting [s-ovf] OFF makes..".I would like to give multiple accolades to your series of photos. They are definitely more interesting than most BIF pics., although they are hhaard enough!
Question: why use the S-OVF mode when doing MF please?
thanks mate! will give above a go.It's a hefty difference in readout/display to the EVF with it on, even in good light with a fast lens. It reads out at ~60fps steady and doesn't try and massage the image based on your settings. It's slightly confusingly worded in the manual - I think it should really say "selecting [s-ovf] OFF makes..".
View attachment 810385
Also, the setting to prioritise shooting speed over stabilisation is menu > cog > c2 here -
View attachment 810384
it is very hard to hit true 60/15fps in those modes with the stabiliser re-centring every shot.