Thanks! They seem to tolerate me pretty well, but they are extremely territorial with their competition, chasing them away immediately.Really impressed with your work. I've tracked hummers in Mindo, Ecuador, where they are so fixate on drinking the sugar water they barely notice you.
First off, I think luck deserves a fair amount of credit, but as an aside, here's what I did:What shutter speed did you use to capture the wings but still show movement?
I'm not familiar with the GF7, but it seems strange that the mechanical shutter would be limited to 1/50s. Is this for flash sync? The specs make it look like 1/500s without flash. 1/500 is still pretty slow for hummingbird wings, but would probably eliminate the e-shutter distortion (wings will be a blur, but could get a sharp torso if it's hovering). I'm pretty novice with flash, but I image 1/500 with natural lighting might be the better option. I would think that if you want to use flash, you would have to stop down, shoot at base ISO, and crank the flash. If it's outside in daylight, the flash would have to be intense enough to kill the ambient light completely, or else the slow shutter will still expose the blurred wings. Again, I'm not a flash expert, maybe someone like @MichaelSewell can chime in on the lighting.I use a GF7 which maxes out at 1/50s, plus the sync/shutter speed is very slow at 1/50s. Wings are totally blurred with mechanical shutter, and adding flash did not help enough, so I'm stuck with the electronic shutter. I surmise the GX85's faster mechanical shutter would work much better (not sure if the shutter/sync speed would be a non-issue though). Due to slow electronic shutter and wing movement, the wings are sometimes either distorted very noticeably, or the wings look smaller than they actually are. I'll post a warped one and some good ones.View attachment 561437
Thanks @MichaelSewell ! Great to have such a knowledgeable user base on this site, I think I learn something new every time on log on.First things first. @Mountain , your images are outstanding!
Now, with regards to speedlights, the nearer to maximum output, the longer the flash duration, and therefore the likelihood of increased blurring seen.
IGBT controlled lights, such as speedlights, have their shortest flash duration at their lowest setting, as the flash output is physically cut off. The downside being the amount of light put out by the unit would dictate the speedlight being extremely close to the subject.
Voltage controlled lights, such as studio heads, tend to have their shortest duration at maximum output. This can be seen in the studio with kids racing around or waving their hands about, as the lights are unlikely to be at full power.
With a sync speed of 1/50th sec, you're quite limited when going down the standard flash route. In bright sunlight, you counter the low shutter speed using a smaller aperture, such as f16 if you are able to use an ISO of 50. (Sunny sixteen rule). This means your speedlight is going to have to work extremely hard to hit that sensor through an aperture of f16 and such a low sensitivity.
High spec speedlights have an output of around 70Ws (Roughly speaking!!), although the built in reflector makes extremely good use of the available power.
To kill the ambient, your going to have to use good quality location kit. Godox AD600 would be good, but again, they are IGBT based, and at their longest light duration at full power, which is where you are likely to be on a bright, sunny day with a shutter speed of 1/50th sec.
In the tutorial Into The Sun I was having to shoot at 1/250th sec at ISO64and f16 using three 400Ws heads at pretty much near their maximum output.
Best lens I never intended to buyThis lens is now definitely on my wish list.