How to get best JPEG on E-M10?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Braza, Aug 17, 2015.

  1. Braza

    Braza Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 31, 2013
    For about a year I take pictures on the E-M10, and I realized that OOC Jpeg's looks slightly muted and colors just does not pop. In some scenes there is too much "reds". Sometimes the photos "look underexposed", but the camera and PS/LR tells me, they're not. If you get what I mean.

    This is especially noticeable when compared to the Fuji's X100T/X100S cameras or even Oly E-P3. There the colors pop, they are juicy, lively and bright.

    I decided to think about this. What do you think?

    Can I get best results directly from the camera? Maybe some setting will help me?
  2. Sniksekk

    Sniksekk Mu-43 Veteran Subscribing Member

    Apr 7, 2015
    Regarding too much "reds".

  3. gryphon1911

    gryphon1911 Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 13, 2014
    Central Ohio, USA
    If the images look too red, then it might be a white balance issue. There is a menu option to set warm tones on in the OMD cameras. It is on by default. I turn it off. It is under menu option "G" "Keep Warm Colors"

    You also do not mention which picture mode you are using. I use natural because I shoot for the largest possible latitude and then process to my personal taste in post processing. You might want to try vivid.
    You might also want to dial down the contrast as well.

    Your shooting conditions can have a lot to do with your colors coming out as well in regards to the look of your jpg. Just because the histogram shows that you are not clipping on either end doesn't mean that it is getting the exposure you want. I often need to punch up the whites or pop the shadows some to get the look I want.

    I come from a Nikon background and their reds tend to over punch a lot, where I find the Olympus colors more neutral.
  4. bjurasz

    bjurasz Mu-43 Veteran

    Dec 10, 2014
    Cedar Park
    Have you tried the "vivid" setting for your JPGs?
  5. drd1135

    drd1135 Zen Snapshooter

    Mar 17, 2011
    Southwest Virginia
    Just a thought: There is menu item under the gears menu, color/wb called Keep Warm Color. This is on by default and turning it off shifts the palette a bit blue.
  6. drd1135

    drd1135 Zen Snapshooter

    Mar 17, 2011
    Southwest Virginia
    Oops, Gryphon beat me.
  7. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    Yes - shoot raw and fix it later. If you're serious about getting the best quality then it's the only way to go. Why do you want to stick to JPEGs?
    • Agree Agree x 3
  8. Braza

    Braza Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 31, 2013
    "Keep warm colors" turned off, of course.

    WB is okay.

    I've tried to shoot "vivid" and this is not, what I'm looking for... Didn't like the "i-Enchance" setting too.
  9. CWRailman

    CWRailman Mu-43 All-Pro Subscribing Member

    Jun 2, 2015
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Post some examples to demonstrate what you are talking about so others can best access your issues.
  10. Jfrader

    Jfrader Guest

    Try bumping up the Contrast and Saturation +1 each in the Super Control Panel. That should increase "pop" without the excessive garishness of "Vivid."
    • Informative Informative x 1
  11. tyrphoto

    tyrphoto Mu-43 All-Pro

    May 25, 2014
    Seoul | NYC
    The only way to find a setting that you'll like is by experimenting with the various color modes as well as with saturation and contrast. What looks good to you may not be the same as for everyone so there's no single setting that is universal.

    Also, just curious, what "film simulation" are you using on your X100 series that you find to be pleasing?
  12. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    You might also make sure that your color mode is set to sRGB vice Adobe RGB. That will help to reduce the amount of red tones.
  13. Ulfric M Douglas

    Ulfric M Douglas Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 6, 2010
    Yes. You can use an awesome Olympus setting to help you.
    First find a scene which you like or is typical of your favourite type of photos.
    Now you have two brilliant ways to find you camera's best Jpeg setting for you.

    1. Art-Filter-Bracket. It's in the menu.
    This allows to to take one frame but the camera processes it into as many Jpeg versions as you like, and despite the name they don't have to be art-filters they can be standard Jpeg settings too.
    Play with that, see what suits.
    Personally I use "vivid" mostly.

    2. White-balance-Bracket.
    This allows one frame to be offered with up to nine different white balance tones,
    use this to detect how/why/when there might be a 'wrong' colour shift (for example your "reds")
    and fix it.
    I used this feature to give +1 green on some of my camera's global white balance.
  14. wjiang

    wjiang Mu-43 Hall of Famer Subscribing Member

    I agree with the OP in both cases.

    1) The newer 16MP sensor has more dynamic range and is quite keen on preserving highlights especially. This will result a more muted look with less pop OOC. I shoot RAW so it doesn't concern me but changing contrast might help. Make sure you have gradation set to normal, auto will make it worse (more DR preservation).

    2) Too much red saturation - again, appears to be a characteristic of the 16MP Olys. This isn't a WB issue, it's just the red hues, which get blown really easily. My GM5 doesn't suffer from this. I automatically decrease reds on RAW import with ACR for my E-M1 (and previous E-M5). Don't really have a workaround for OOC...
  15. Braza

    Braza Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 31, 2013
    Thank you all for answers!

    I think some of you understood me correctly and some not. I photograph a lot of years, of which more than 3 years, I shooting on Olympus. I know about settings like WB and "warm colors".

    Q is: I prefer to shoot in jpeg, because I often do not have time to deal with RAW conversion. Therefore, I want to understand whether it is possible to get the most pleasing colors directly from the camera?

    And if you rephrase the question: is it possible and how to do it, to get the Fuji-colors on Oly? :)
  16. jyndi

    jyndi Mu-43 Rookie

    May 7, 2015
    A quick Google turned up this page, and I point you to section/menu 1c, picture modes. The picture mode (vivid, natural, muted, etc.) controls the OOC jpeg, and you can adjust the sharpening/contrast/saturation/graduation of each mode away from the factory default to what you like better.

    As for how to adjust each parameter to give you the result you wish, well I believe that is a trial-and-error process. I would probably take a handful of test photos in raw and figure out the required changes on the computer and then set in camera and confirm results, but that's reflecting my comfort zone.
    • Appreciate Appreciate x 1
  17. bjurasz

    bjurasz Mu-43 Veteran

    Dec 10, 2014
    Cedar Park
    That's a subjective question that has no answer. For example, I'm quite pleased with the Oly Vivid JPGs SOOC, so my answer is absolutely yes, you can. Whether you can find a pleasing look to your eye, well, who knows. For example, I could never get that with my Canon 40D, I just didn't like Canon's "look" though I loved the body and the lenses. But what I was able to do was to create an adjustment prefix in Aperture, and automatically have that preset applied to each file as it was imported. That became my "look", and it worked for 95% of the photos I imported. You can do something similar in Lightroom.

    In other words, if you have the right software a RAW workflow can become stupid simple. Seriously.

    • Agree Agree x 1
  18. Turbofrog

    Turbofrog Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 21, 2014
    I do find it interesting how people have this idea about Fuji colours and Olympus colours, etc...

    I guess it's a JPEG thing, but I have frequently been complimented on the "colours" out of my Panasonics, and my girlfriend's Samsung NX210 outputs quite pleasing files as well - but that's just RAW processing in Lightroom and my personal taste. While it's clear that different sensors and image processors result in slightly different colour profiles, I think the actually effect is drastically overrated and becomes its own self-repeating myth.

    But again, I don't shoot JPEG, since I feel that any photo that I have that is worth sharing is worth spending 30 seconds or a minute tweaking in Lightroom and getting it just right.
    • Like Like x 2
  19. bjurasz

    bjurasz Mu-43 Veteran

    Dec 10, 2014
    Cedar Park
    I don't think its a myth at all, but rather that you have actually stumbled upon the issue yourself. Remember, WE ALL SHOOT IN RAW. Repeat that one more time. WE ALL SHOOT IN RAW. The difference is the OP has his RAW converter in the camera, whereas you are using Lightroom, and I used to use Aperture. Others swear by Capture One for RAW conversion (I tend to agree its the best as well). There IS a difference in raw converters, whether it be in the camera or on the computer. And the difference between the "Oly look" and the "Panasonic look" is as much a difference in the raw converter built into the camera as it is a difference in the sensor.

    Is the difference huge? It depends entirely on the audience. For me the difference was great enough that I did not do in-camera conversions with my Canon 40D, I did that in Aperture. But with my Oly I get results more than good enough in-camera, so the Olympus camera is my raw converter of choice right now. If I was a professional photographer however I probably would shoot RAW and tweak images before delivering to a client. There, even small differences might actually become big differences.

    WE ALL SHOOT IN RAW. :) We just choose different converters.

    • Agree Agree x 2
    • Like Like x 1
  20. Jfrader

    Jfrader Guest

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