Hi, Firstly I love shallow DoF, so that makes the getting focus more challenging, but if you've a wee one running, or even just not staying still how do you get the shot just right? So far I've tried SF+M but by the time its lock they've moved on - CAF (both types) and it gets focus then wanders off, then back and its really hit and miss if its even near let along spot on. I've tried single small point and larger (3x3) grouping for the AF points. Coming from DSLR I'm almost hard wired to use back button focus on servo and just snap when I need, but this sort of thing seems much more challenging on MFT - are you guys not half pressing, just going for the shot and hoping AF gets it right or perhaps spray and prey? I know it will be me thats at fault but I'd love to get this right as apart from the 135L and 400mm its the only thing holding me back from fully switching to MFT. Cheers, John
I usually prefer to pre-focus on moving subjects or use the S-AF and release the shutter very quickly. Sometimes the C-AF in the E-M10 works, but I wouldn't count on it. If you need object tracking very often an E-M1 is a much better option because of its phase AF. It's one of the points where the difference between the E-M10 and E-M1 is huge.
Thanks for that Leif - perhaps later I'll be able to compare. I had considered pre-focusing but given my eyesight and reactions aren't what they used to be I think I'd have to combine it with a rapid fire, but still that at least would get the shot. I'll also have a crack and quick fire and release, will be odd going back to that though
Just saw this on another thread "Phase detect auto focus only applies when using non-micro 4/3 glass" - I only have m43 glass, so at least thats one less reason to change Who knows perhaps the M5 II Still I'll try out some of those other techniques tomorrow and see how it works out.
Apparently there is some confusion on this topic. I came across this article which seems to contradict what you read: The big change with this camera comes with the innovative new auto focusing modes. The new "Dual Fast AF" utilizes both Phase and Contrast detection auto focus depending on what AF mode and what type of lens is on the camera. For most shooters this means that when using the native Micro Four-Thirds lenses, you have improved contrast detection autofocus in S-AF mode. In C-AF, the camera uses both contrast and phase detection allowing for faster continuous focusing and focus tracking at 6.5fps burst mode. With Phase detection, the camera also focuses much more quickly with the original Olympus Four-Thirds lenses from their dSLR line. The contrast detection grid has been increased to 81 focus points that are smaller and cover more of the total image. When using phase detection there are 37 AF points. http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/olympus-omd-em1-review
If you have to use the EM10, then I would just use single AF with a fast focusing lens. Otherwise, I would put the EM10 away and get my Nikon D300 or D700 and shoot that way.
Thanks for the clarification on the M1 - I'll have a bit of a read up on that. Lol, I think the 5D3 can handle that if I need to - no going back to DSLRs for me - just too big and heavy.
Maybe someone has a magic combo, but I haven't seen it on M43. What works well enough for me is S-AF and touch shutter. I get over 85% keepers that way. That said, I still love my Nikons for tracking, ridiculously accurate, even my cheapo D3000. I also love the back button focus trick where the camera will wait until the subject comes into the focus zone, then it takes the picture.
So, don't you use the EVF? Also that way wouldn't the image change composition as you poked the screen?
By touch shutter, do you mean the mash technique where you? mash the shutter button all the way at once and the camera focuses and firs? I also didn't know the 1 has phase detect. Nice! My son is a competitive dancer but he tends to mostly stay in one place so focus isn't a big issue.
Very quick primer: CDAF (contrast detect auto focus) knows nothing about distance to subject, and cannot predict movement. It only looks for the highest point of contrast in the frame, and focus that until sharp. It's extremely accurate in focusing, but not great with moving subjects. Most CDAF uses the image from the sensor to focus. PDAF (phase detect auto focus) knows the distance to subjects, and can predict somewhat their movement. It is much quicker at AF on moving subjects, though prone to error, included back- and front- focusing. Most PDAF systems use a separate AF processor that is not on the chip (i.e. classic DSLR) PDAF on a chip (some mirrorless cameras and some DSLRs) are combining PDAF sensors on the sensor, so the camera is using sensor data from PDAF detectors refined with CDAF. Theoretically, this hybrid should be faster than CDAF and more accurate than PDAF. In M43 cameras, only the EM1 uses the latter. I think the Sony NEX6 and alpha 6000 also use hybrid. I know some Canon DSLRs are starting to support hybrid, and maybe also one Fuji? It is, IMO, the future, but it's still not quite commonplace yet. With just CDAF -- pre-focus, or sometimes you can learn to track with manual focus, or go DSLR/PDAF, but be ready to put up with front- and back-focusing issues.
I read the Sony a6000 has it and tracks very well indeed. Not a key need for me so happy with my 10. Good to know the 1 has it should I need it.
Yep, I scoffed at it too. You can even hold your finger or drag it on the screen as the subject moves.
Something a bit less drastic. Record kids running around using 4K video cam and then play back on 70" 4K TV. Hit pause when you find the right frame, then take photo with camera.
What are the AEL/AEF options doing?...and btw the focus peaking works in video when MF?...it works on stills but cannot štart it in video
