Hot/stuck pixels on Olympus sensors

Brian Beezley

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I like this bad-pixel utility, but I discovered that results are highly variable unless you carefully control the RAW processing parameters.

First of all, I use both Olympus Viewer 3 (OV3) and RawTherapee (RT) to process RAW files. They yield different results for bad pixels. For one thing, I discovered this morning that when RT saves a full image, it generates 4088 x 3076 pixels, not 4032 x 3024. Perhaps RT includes extra pixels at the edges of the frame the camera uses for IBIS. There are other differences between the two programs, including the demosaicing algorithm. I decided to standardize on OV3 for bad-pixel tests. I generate a 16-bit TIFF output file for the utility.

The first time you open a RAW file, OV3 initializes its processing parameters to the values the camera used when it captured the image. (On subsequent file openings, it uses the values you last set.) Many of these parameters affect the bad-pixel test. Some, like exposure compensation, you'd expect to have an effect. Others, like white balance and sharpness, you might not. I normally set my camera for automatic white balance, but there's no guarantee that the algorithm adjusts the balance the same way from one dark frame to another. So I decided to standardize on Daylight 5300K for bad-pixel tests. The Sharpness parameter can be deceiving. The camera defaults to 0, but this appears to sharpen the image. I normally use -2, which I believe does no image filtering. These two settings yield different bad-pixel results.

The other thing I discovered this morning is that the number in brackets next to an OV3 parameter setting isn't the current value as I'd always assumed. Instead, it is the "As Shot" camera value. This means that you must methodically open each drop-down parameter menu to determine the settings you're using.

If you standardize your settings, I think the bad-pixel utility can be useful for determining whether your sensor has developed new bad pixels. You might also use it to check image noise at various camera temperatures. I've used the X-Y coordinates the utility provides to examine questionable pixels with the OV3 X-Y cursor readout. But without standardized settings, I don't think reporting bad-pixel numbers is that useful.

Brian
 

RobWatson

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But I do usually take two shots like this to compare, just to be certain. The clusters reoccur in the same places. And even if it was random noise, then basically every cam I try would show some under the same circumstances, right? The new black one I got now shows none at 30 and none at 20 even, happy days :)

Does that mean you are giving up on the violet one?
 

Kirill

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Does that mean you are giving up on the violet one?

I would if the E-PM2 whose price is plummeting looked as sexy in red from the front :frown: as the E-PM1 does in violet. I need a cheap'n'cheerful-looking body for some situations when I want to be considered just a holiday snapshot taker with a cheap point-and-shoot. Violet oh violet don't shrink on me, I want to find a good unit yet :biggrin:
 

keko

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I would think that for taking snapshots the dead/hot pixel thing shouldn't be an issue...maybe you could just learn to live with it?
But then I'm in love with my Fuji S5 pro that has hot pixels like a christmas tree... so never mind...
 

sammykhalifa

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OK, maybe I need to clarify a little.

4) I don't get this "remove in PP" argument. Why waste time on PP for something that can and should be avoided at the moment of photography if you chose your camera well? :)

Please don't take offense to this, and judging by the thread I don't think you will . . . just seems like an odd statement about wasting time considering you said that you went to several retail stores and tried dozens of cameras. ;)

It just made me laugh because I do the same thing with some things. I like this thread though . . . maybe I should do the pixel mapping thing on my camera when I get home--noticed some stuck/broken/whatever pixels when experimenting with long exposure a few nights back.
 

Ross the fiddler

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Please don't take offense to this, and judging by the thread I don't think you will . . . just seems like an odd statement about wasting time considering you said that you went to several retail stores and tried dozens of cameras. ;)

It just made me laugh because I do the same thing with some things. I like this thread though . . . maybe I should do the pixel mapping thing on my camera when I get home--noticed some stuck/broken/whatever pixels when experimenting with long exposure a few nights back.

I assume that Noise Reduction (dark frame subtraction) was active & with single frame & not sequential shooting setting (that cancels NR), assuming you're talking about an Olympus camera.
 

stratokaster

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It's actually quite interesting — I used quite a lot of different Olympus and Panasonic cameras and all Olympus cameras (except E-M5 and E-PL5) I tried had at least one stuck pixel visible in normal daylight photos, but none of my Panasonic bodies had any. I guess Panasonic just uses somewhat smarter remapping algorithms. That said, Olympus has an option to remap dead/stuck pixels, so you can probably just run it once a month or whenever it strikes your fancy, so it's no big deal.
 

Kirill

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Please don't take offense to this, and judging by the thread I don't think you will . . . just seems like an odd statement about wasting time considering you said that you went to several retail stores and tried dozens of cameras. ;)

No offence taken. My logic is two-pronged:
A) I had no idea in advance that I would have to try so many E-PMs at so many stores before finding a good one. Failing at first only makes me more determined.
B) It is IMHO still less waste of time to dedicate some time to choosing a good unit instead of doing relevant PP later, time after time after time.
 

Kirill

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I would think that for taking snapshots the dead/hot pixel thing shouldn't be an issue...

Again my logic is two-pronged:
A) I am talking about perceptions here, the way I want people to see me when I am taking pictures. Sometimes I am better off with my old trusted GH1, looking quite semi-pro. But sometimes it is better to look inconspicuous, vulgar even, hence my desire to have one garish body. My actual level of photography skills (modest, but not snapshot-oriented) remains the same irrespective of which cam I use.
B) Even with a cheap-looking garish unit I want to get images with no discernible hot pixels at handheld exposures :wink:
 

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