Hexanon 135mm f3.5, any way to combat fungus?

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by agentlossing, Nov 12, 2013.

  1. agentlossing

    agentlossing Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jun 26, 2013
    Andrew Lossing
    I won one of these lenses from eBay for the princely sum of $15 shipped... For that price I was expecting fungus, or terrible wear and tear, or both. Turns out it's in great condition, except from the fungus part. there's some in an inner element, so I decided to try and take it apart. I can get into the lens by either end, but can't seem to find a way to the aperture or the elements around it. I can't see screws or other means of getting all the way in there. Anyone attempted it with this lens (of similar)?
     
  2. verbatimium

    verbatimium Mu-43 Veteran

    204
    Jul 17, 2013
    Toronto, Ontario
    Martin
    I think I have taken this lens apart a while back, along with other Hexanon lenses. They are quite easy to take apart. Post some pictures of where you are at with it and I will try to help you.
     
  3. agentlossing

    agentlossing Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jun 26, 2013
    Andrew Lossing
    Thanks! I couldn't find a way past the front element after removing the nameplate, so I'm going in from the back, this is where I'm at. I'm wondering if the two teeth around the rear element mean that that piece can be rotated?

    1384312632570.

    Incidentally, my Nokia 920 does a goods job keeping up for detail photos during attempts like these!
     
  4. darosk

    darosk Mu-43 Top Veteran

    705
    Apr 17, 2013
    Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
    Daros
    I'm not familiar with Hexanons in particular, but in general yes, those notches should allow you to unscrew the element.
     
  5. verbatimium

    verbatimium Mu-43 Veteran

    204
    Jul 17, 2013
    Toronto, Ontario
    Martin
    I always went at them from the front to get to the aperture blades. The lens has a built in lens hood correct? When the hood is extended, you should see a very small flat-head black screw (can be one or a few of them) on the barrel where the hood sits when its fully recessed. If you unscrew the small black screws, the whole front barrel can then be grasped and turned counterclockwise to unscrewed (all it is is just a protective cover). Once that is done, you have exposed the group of front elements. You can then unscrew the group of front glass elements by turning counterclockwise to get to the aperture blades.

    Note: You DO NOT need to remove the front nameplate to do this. The front nameplate is only attached to the front protective barrel, and it will come off along with the protective barrel.

    I have actually never gone in from the back end so I can't help you much there. I just always found it so easy to go in from the front on the Hexanons.
     
  6. agentlossing

    agentlossing Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jun 26, 2013
    Andrew Lossing
    Alright, thanks! Those screws on the lens barrel (there are three) were my next choice, in fact I unscrewed a couple of them - my only concern is, will they go back in once the barrel has been removed/reassembled?
     
  7. verbatimium

    verbatimium Mu-43 Veteran

    204
    Jul 17, 2013
    Toronto, Ontario
    Martin
    Yes they will go back in. They are tightening screws that are used only to prevent the barrel from rotating. They do not actually screw into the barrel underneath the protective barrel.

    Once you have removed all 3 screws. Get a good grip on the front barrel and turn it counter clockwise (while facing the lens face). Sometimes they are a bit stiff, but these Hexanon lenses are built like tanks so give-er until it starts to rotate. Keep rotating it until it comes completely off (the threads are very fine so you may have to rotate it quite a bit). After, the exposed barrel with the group of front glass elements shouldn't have any screws, so you just have to get a good grasp again and turn it counter clockwise. Once again, it is on very fine threads so you will have to turn it quite a few times for it to completely remove (hopefully your fungus is on the exposed glass elements once you have done this step). This will also give you access to the aperture blades.
     
  8. agentlossing

    agentlossing Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jun 26, 2013
    Andrew Lossing
    Bingo! The only fungus appears to have been on the inward facing glass element of the front element group, now everything appears clean. Now to finish putting it back together and slap it on the GX1! Many thanks for the guidance, that was exactly what I needed! :)
     
  9. verbatimium

    verbatimium Mu-43 Veteran

    204
    Jul 17, 2013
    Toronto, Ontario
    Martin
    No problem. Like I said, generally, the Hexanons are very easy lenses to take apart (at least from the front end). Usually if I get a lens with fungus, it is almost always in the exact same location that you found fungus in your lens; on the inward facing glass of the front element group. Very easy to get to and clean off.

    Not sure if you have access to a UV light source. I work in a research lab, so we have a UV oven. I usually stick the lens in there for a few hours just to sterilize the lens completely after cleaning it and NEVER had fungus reoccur after cleaning. If you don't have access to UV, clean the glass infected with the fungus with some vinegar water and when you reassemble the lens, when it is not in use, leave it in direct sunlight on a window ledge for a few days.
     
  10. mazg

    mazg Mu-43 Regular

    96
    Aug 20, 2013
    Let us know how it turns out and share some pictures. This was an interesting thread as I'm starting to accumulate some old lenses myself. Mine are all clean as far as I can tell but you never know when this might come in handy.
     
  11. agentlossing

    agentlossing Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jun 26, 2013
    Andrew Lossing
    Unfortunately I didn't take any more pictures of the disassembled lens, as I'd had it laid out in front if me for awhile and wanted to finish the job. It cleaned up nicely though, I used a glass cleaner, but if by chance the fungus returns I'll know what to do, and will just hit the element with a stronger cleaner. Unfortunately I don't have a UV light or the sun; November in Oregon doesn't tend to have an overabundance of the latter!

    I'll take some shots tomorrow with the new lens, indoors in the evening doesn't make for particularly good telephoto testing! But the few I've taken look plenty sharp, with more resistance to flaring wide open than the other Hexanon primes I own.
     
  12. verbatimium

    verbatimium Mu-43 Veteran

    204
    Jul 17, 2013
    Toronto, Ontario
    Martin
    Glad to hear that every everything went smoothly and you got it back together. You can never go wrong with getting any Hexanon lens out there. Just make sure to throw away the cloth that you used to clean the fungus off. DO NOT reuse it to clean your camera or your other lenses or else you will risk contaminating them.
     
  13. tjdean01

    tjdean01 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    842
    Feb 20, 2013
    How do you get it back together without any dust being in there?
     
  14. agentlossing

    agentlossing Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jun 26, 2013
    Andrew Lossing
    That really wasn't much of a concern, I used a combination of compressed air (get one that doesn't leave propellant residue, and always give it a test spray before pointing it at your lens) and a clean microfiber cloth. Also, very light dust wouldn't affect lens performance.
     
  15. Chazpanzee

    Chazpanzee New to Mu-43

    1
    Jul 8, 2014
    I know this is an old thread but it's the closest information i've found to my problem and you might be able to help me. I have the 135mm hexanon that you've been talking about and I have managed to clean up all the fungus on all glass except for the front element which I can't get apart. The fungus seems to be on the reverse of each of the lenses that make up the two part front element. Is it possible to take the apart to clean them?
     
  16. tjdean01

    tjdean01 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    842
    Feb 20, 2013
    While you're in there you might want to make yourself another aperture stop around 4.4 or whatever. The lens is very, very compact and at f5.6 very, very sharp!
     
  17. RnR

    RnR Mu-43 All-Pro

    Sep 25, 2011
    Brisbane, Australia
    Hasse
    Try this thread - http://forum.mflenses.com/re-cementing-doublet-elements-with-canadian-balsam-t34467.html. Lots of interesting stuff on that forum for repairing lenses :)