Help with G5 Program mode IQ

Discussion in 'Panasonic Cameras' started by Toddster, Sep 1, 2013.

  1. Toddster

    Toddster Mu-43 Veteran

    Aug 7, 2013
    Todd Cleaver
    I need a little help in figuring out what went wrong here. I have a two G5’s that I put into Program mode for a quick weekend trip (family, not photo outing) and some of the results were a little disappointing. In general it looks to me like the cameras consistently chose a much lower shutter speed/ISO combination than I would have. I have two bodies set up the same one with the P14-42 3.5-5.6 and the other with the P45-150 4.0-5.6 the results were similar for both camera/lens combinations so I don’t suspect the equipment but rather the setup or my understanding of it.

    Setup was as follows:
    Everything was handheld with practically no attention to detail (yes I know, use iA the next time:smile:)
    Program mode
    OIS on (normal mode)
    Standard mode Sharpness +1; Saturation +1; Noise Reduction -2
    Flash off
    AF Flexible
    One area focus (small, center)
    Multi metering mode
    iResolution standard
    iDynamic standard
    Electronic shutter off
    Quality fine jpeg only

    Here are some examples; if anyone needs more information or examples please let me know and thanks in advance for any help. I did use HDR for a couple of shots (handheld); I don’t think that I included them in my samples but I can’t specifically identify them so I am not certain.

    39mm 1/80 5.5 ISO 200
    View attachment 303544
    G5a P1000692 by todd1958, on Flickr

    42mm 1/80 5.6 ISO 200
    View attachment 303546
    G5a P1000701 by todd1958, on Flickr

    14MM 1/200 4.5 ISO 160
    View attachment 303548
    G5a P1000852 by todd1958, on Flickr

    25mm 1/60 4.6 ISO 200
    View attachment 303550
    G5a P1000942 by todd1958, on Flickr

    14MM 1/80 3.5 ISO 160
    View attachment 303552
    G5a P1010019 by todd1958, on Flickr

    45mm 1/125 4.0 ISO 160
    View attachment 303554
    G5b P1000359 by todd1958, on Flickr

    84mm 1/160 5.2 ISO 250
    View attachment 303557
    G5b P1000365 by todd1958, on Flickr

  2. mazg

    mazg Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 20, 2013
    Hi Todd, what specifically are you finding disappointing?
  3. Nevski

    Nevski Mu-43 Rookie

    Jul 20, 2013
    Looks fine too me. The images coming out of my G5 look far worse than that. Pan tech support was not very helpful.
  4. DynaSport

    DynaSport Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jan 5, 2013
    I haven't used P mode on my G5, so I can't comment on how it normally does, and I'm not sure what you don't care for in the pictures. It looks to me that in the first two pictures, perhaps the camera focused on the near vegetation so the background is not as clear focus. Perhaps it also metered off the closer, brighter vegetation as well.

    I actually like the slower shutter speeds the camera picked, as I think it renders the water pleasantly.

    Some of your scenes, such as the third one, are pretty challenging with bright and shadow areas. All in all, I don't think they are bad. But I'm sorry you're not happy with them and maybe I'm missing something.
  5. Toddster

    Toddster Mu-43 Veteran

    Aug 7, 2013
    Todd Cleaver
    I realize that the water is a tough scene so I should have been clear that I’m not unhappy with the cameras metering; I think that it did a good job in tough conditions. And I have many other images from these cameras that I am very happy with; I’m just looking to the experience of others to help me fully understand what the camera is doing.
    My problem with these images is the lack of sharpness in the detail. I strongly suspect that it has to do with the relatively slow shutter speeds. I agree that if I was taking the time to shoot this artistically I would have used a tripod and kept the shutter open even longer however I was just taking quick snaps in P mode to see what the camera would do. It seems that in P mode with auto ISO there is a strong bias in keeping the ISO as low as possible. For example it seems that 1/80 at 42mm and 1/160 at 84mm is a little on the edge when a slight increase in ISO could have made a big difference in the overall sharpness of the shot without adding much noise. If this is the case it is certainly something I can work around; I just want to make sure I’m not missing something (like some setting I made to cause the bias toward the low ISO).

  6. psycho-squirrel

    psycho-squirrel Mu-43 Rookie

    Dec 17, 2012
    Vancouver Canada
    If I were you I would have used a tripod and longer exposure (maybe 1-2 seconds) to make the waterfall all milk and smooth. Otherwise they look nice.
  7. Toddster

    Toddster Mu-43 Veteran

    Aug 7, 2013
    Todd Cleaver
    Thanks to all of those who helped. On second look these are not as bad as I had originally judged them. I have now done a little PP and will posting those on my Flickr account and removing these examples.
  8. Particularly when using lenses equipped with image stabilisation, using the rule-of-thumb of shutter speed = 1/ FF equiv focal length is pretty standard for most cameras as a low shutter speed limit. My Samsung NX200 even thinks that I should be able to hand-hold a 45mm equiv focal length lens without IS at 1/30sec and a 30mm equiv lens at 1/20sec before bumping up the ISO. If nothing else it is good for keeping me concentrating on holding the camera steady!
  9. Steven

    Steven Mu-43 All-Pro

    May 25, 2012
    With kit lens and P mode I will often manually set ISO in daylight to 400 to get faster shutter speeds because it's still very clean.
  10. JoeV

    JoeV Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 22, 2012
    Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
    Joe Van Cleave
    When slow shutter speed is the image-quality-limiting parameter, I find it better to use "S" mode, then dial in a speed appropriate for the subject/camera movement. I also set the G5 to Auto ISO or Intelligent ISO, so it's free to bump up the speed as needed to maintain my specified shutter speed. The high-ISO performance of the G5 is sufficiently good that whatever sensor noise is evident is better than a blurred subject.

    Conversely, when shooting grab shots in bright light, for instance on the street, I'll set the camera to either "P" or "A" mode and set the aperture so as to get adequately wide DOF, which helps with quick focusing on rapadily changing compositions. Also having the lens preset to a fixed distance close to the hyperfocal distance of the lens' aperture eliminates any AF-induced lag, further speeding up the performance.

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