Help needed: Repairing the tilt screen of the OM-D EM10 II

Rabe

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Hello!

the tilt LCD screen of my OM-D EM10 II has developed a fault where it blacks out in certain tilt positions, as well as occasionally in the neutral position. Tilting the screen into a different position and back sometimes fixes the problem temporarily. Everything else on the camera remains fully operational while the screen is blacked out, even the buttons on the back.

This leads me to believe that the fault is with the flex ribbon cable connecting the screen to the back of the camera. It is probably just a loose connection that I need to re-attach.

Olympus will easily fix the issue if I send it to them, but the camera is out of warranty. Since I am cheap, and I value learning new things, I wanted to attempt to fix the issue myself which would hopefully make me more self-reliant in the future. I pray Olympus will be able to fix my mistakes in case I screw things up. Yes, I know I run the risk of bricking my camera with this stunt.

However, for the live of me, I could not find proper documentation on how to access the tilt screen. There are some videos on Youtube for other OM-D models, but not for the EM-10 II.

The first thing I wanted to check is the connection of the ribbon cable on the lcd side. I can see four screws on the metal plate of the tilt mechanism that is connected to the screen. However, I can't see any screws at the buttom of the screen. There is a small round cut-out at the lower back of the screen that might hide a screw, though.

Does anyone have any experiences in this regard?

Oh and one more thing: the EM10 has a bulit-in flash, which means there is a capacitor somewhere inside the body. How much of a risk do I run shocking myself or the equipment by just accessing the back screen?

Thank you all!
 

WaltP

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Bravo! That's the spirit! Trying new things; being self-reliant; it's not magic, humans designed it, humans can figure it out.

I think what you are looking for is the Service Manual. That is what I found for my GX85. It shows you where the screws are, and the recommended sequence for removal and replacement.

My suggestion would be, get a chunk of paper tape to put the screws on as you remove them. Paper tape or anything else that allows you to label them as you put them down. I ended up with one screw that sits on my night stand rether than in the tripod socket. But, then I took the camera apart, replaced the rear control wheel ($25), and put it back with only 2 small issues and it is back in service.

Bravo! Go for it. If you brick it, Olympus has the "flat rate repair" anyway (Panasonic did not, so I got a backup). The E-M5.2 flat rate is $249 last I checked. They will fix or replace any and everything for that rate. Great service.
 

Wombad

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Hi, had been in the same situation but decided to go the Olympus repair route. Repair was fairly quick (i think i had the camera back within 3 days) and reasonable priced (i recall it being just above 100 Euro - in Germany). I assume the complete tilt screen was replaced.
I also did expect the ribbon cable to be the problem but did not see any clear defect on the cable or how it was attached so i had no idea how to get started with fixing it short of trying to get and attach a new cable.
Nevertheless, I also see no harm for you trying to find any obvious way to fix the cable before sending it in.
 

Rabe

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This article and video suggest the 1 and 2 are the same...

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Olympus+OM-D+E-M10+Disassembly/75236

If you're gonna go to the trouble of taking it apart, I'd replace the back ribbon cable. They are available on the Bay for about 15 bucks.
That's a very good guide for step 2, thank you!

But first, I'd like to check if the connection with the LCD if loose. That would save me quite a lot of trouble because I wouldn't have to open the camera body up.
 

djtaylor7

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Have taken a few cameras apart to replace the screen. It should not be too difficult to check the connection from the flexi to the screen by prising apart the screen after removing the bottom and back screws. Avoid any stress on the glass screen.
But you need a very good jewellers type screwdriver. Especially for the shallow screws which hold the flexi guide plates to the hinge. Strip the head on one of these and you are stuffed. Also don't damage the little plastic retainer clip on the flexi socket.
Check out the flexi for the E-M10 Mkii on eBay. It will give you a guide as to the connections, and is quite a bit different to the Mki.
Good luck.
 

Thai-Mike

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Hi, had been in the same situation but decided to go the Olympus repair route. Repair was fairly quick (i think i had the camera back within 3 days) and reasonable priced (i recall it being just above 100 Euro - in Germany). I assume the complete tilt screen was replaced.
I also did expect the ribbon cable to be the problem but did not see any clear defect on the cable or how it was attached so i had no idea how to get started with fixing it short of trying to get and attach a new cable.
Nevertheless, I also see no harm for you trying to find any obvious way to fix the cable before sending it in.

I did the same 2 years ago when I have my EM10 ii. Cost are similar as yours.
 

Rabe

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EDIT: The screen is indeed just held by the four screws on the back, which are easily removed. The two upper screws are longer than the two lower screws. I recommend a magnetic screwdriver, as they are tiny.

Have taken a few cameras apart to replace the screen. It should not be too difficult to check the connection from the flexi to the screen by prising apart the screen after removing the bottom and back screws. Avoid any stress on the glass screen.
That is one of my problems, actually. The EM-10 II doesn't have any bottom screws. Below's a side-by-side with the EM-5 I. I am not quite sure what holds the lcd in place. It has four screens connecting it to the tilt plate, and there is one small round plastic relief in the center.

I guess I could try to open the lcd after removing the four back screws, but I wanted to be sure before damaging anything.

Thanks for your helpful suggestions, by the way!
 

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djtaylor7

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Looks from the photo there are lugs which the metal plate clips into. Probably if you take the screws out to disengage the top plastic piece with the label, this is holding the top in, and then the bottom will disengage.
Wonder if you can prise out the round plastic piece, in case they have hidden a screw underneath.
Good tip on using a magnetised screwdriver.
 

EliasOH

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I have the same issue going on, so I did some digging and found out that:
1st.
You need to remove all screws on the bottom of the camera.
2nd
Use a razor blade or toothpick or whatever is easy and remove both faux-leather grips up front (it's just double sided tape holding them on, they will easily stick back on once job is complete.
3rd
Remove all screws on the face around the edges, leave the screws on the mount alone, those dont have to come off for this job. There is also a screw under the hdmi/aux cover on the side.
4th
Remove the 4 screws you see on the hinge of the lcd, then the 4 on the small plate directly behind the lcd. Behind that plate is another plate with another 2 screws, you can then pull the lcd from its housing. There is an aluminum plate on the back of the lcd that will need to come off in order to loosen the swing clamps....but before that plate comes off the sensor shift has to be unscrewed at the bottom of the lcd..two fat silver screws. You can now reach the last screw holding the aluminum plate in. Remove plate, unhinge the clamps and feed the flex ribbon cable out of the lcd housing, out of the plates behind the lcd and finally out of the back of the body.
5th
(CAREFULLY pry the back of the camera off the front...there will be a small amount of hesitation near the EVF but it will spread just wiggle a little. Do not try to separate the back of the camera from the front as the ribbon cable is attached by swing clips on both parts back and front in multiple places. Where the break in my flex cable was is where the ribbon cable feeds into the body itself, the way the screen folds the cable flexes damn near to a crease.
(This is where it gets tricky....)
3 of the four leads on the flex cable are swing clips...the last lead is actually soldered on at 3 points...the new flex cable will have to be soldered on in order for this fix to work. I bought some LowTemp Solder Paste since I didn't want to mess with an iron...
If the soldering worries you, sell the camera as parts camera and buy a new one or pay Olympus to fix it, no shame in not wanting to mess with soldering. If you decide to continue on, reply with "continue".
 

glparker389

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I know this is an old thread, but I’m having a similar issue with my em10ii. Can anyone provide any updates—especially regarding the soldering—or is this thread dead?

The issue, of course, is that the ~$250 repair from Olympus is more than the camera is worth ...
 

Rabe

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In the end, I just sent it in to Olympus as there was another issue I needed fixed. They told me the screen blackout was caused by a faulty shutter mechanism, which quite surprised me. Either that, or I completely misunderstood them.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
 

djtaylor7

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There is a guide to dismantling the E-M10 Mkii at the Life Pixel website. You would only need to go part of the way to get the back off (probably step 6).

Life Pixel – Olympus E-M10mk2 DIY Digital Infrared Conversion Tutorial - Infrared Conversions, IR Modifications & Photography Tutorials | Life Pixel IR (lifepixel.com)

The flexi is a complicated one ( LCD hinge rotate shaft Flex Cable repair parts for Olympus OM D E M10 Mark II ; EM10 II Camera|cable for|cable for cameracable flexible - AliExpress ). I imagine the part which needs soldering is on the right (a bit above the 61), so depends if you or someone you know has a small soldering pencil.
 

djtaylor7

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Thank you both! Am I correct that the soldered part is on the hinged LCD, and not on the camera body?
That would be my guess, but I have never taken a E0M10 Mkii apart. Life Pixel always tell you if there is a soldered joint, so I think Step 6 is disconnecting the two flexis at the camera end, and you can see the motherboard in step 13, with nothing where the soldered end would go.
 

glparker389

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Thanks! I feel a bit more comfortable attempting a solder joint on the LCD versus the camera body. Too bad I couldn’t source an LCD assembly ... I suppose I could look for a parts camera.
 
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