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Help developing film!

Discussion in 'Open Discussion' started by sebs_color, Sep 14, 2014.

  1. sebs_color

    sebs_color Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 5, 2014
    Virginia Beach, Virginia
    Hello everyone! so a few weeks back I decided to grab a film camera, and I bought some TMAX 400 black and white film. last night, for the first time since high school, I developed my first roll. It came out great and all the images were clear and seemed well developed. I am using the powder developer from Kodak and fixer from Kodak as well (they were like $11 on amazon.com). so my question is:
    while watching this video that I followed, it was saying that if youre using tmax film, you can't re-use the fixer after one use.

    is this true?? and also, can I continue to use the developer and fixer after the first use? I saved it in an air-tight bottle. also, does anyone know the appropriate times to let the chemicals work? I read about 6 min and some say atleast 10, and others say less than 5 but with less agitations. please can someone help clarify this. the bag the powder came in has some instructions but I don't understand what theyre explaining.

    I have another roll I want to develop but im waiting to see if I can get some info.

    also, I have looked online, and either I am clueless to what I am reading, or I cant find much in writing on it.

    I am using 35mm film.

    Thanks for any info!!
  2. Larry H-L

    Larry H-L Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 6, 2013
    Ohio, USA
    Re-use fixer, yes, it will last a long time. T-Max films however,generally need longer fixing times. If it comes out pink, fix additional time... Powdered fixer takes longer times than liquid Rapid-fix.

    Developer... Depends on what you are using and the dilution ratio. Recommended times will be on the inside of the film box.

    Generally, straight, un-diluted developer can be re-used. Diluted developers are one use and dump it.

    Search for "the massive developer chart" for times.
  3. Larry H-L

    Larry H-L Mu-43 Regular

    Aug 6, 2013
    Ohio, USA
  4. alex66

    alex66 Mu-43 All-Pro Subscribing Member

    Jul 23, 2010
    I have reused fixer with tabular grain films such as Tmax and Ilford Deltas, though not often as I far preferred the look of traditional films such as TriX and FP4, though I always used Ilfords rapid fix just bought it in gallon bottles and it would last for years. You can test both fix and developers by clipping off a bit of film and dropping the film in a small amount of either (dev first) if the film goes black the dev is working and if the film goes clear on un developed film the fix is working. If you use some films like Foma Pan be warned they have a blue base and there is nothing wrong with the film, actually a very nice film the 100asa, also if you want to find more look up APUG on the web.
  5. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Development times, like baking instructions, are highly personal and depend on many variables like the specific developer, water temperature, specific film and its development curve/slope, exposure, agitation during development, etc. You should probably follow the instructions for the specific film and developer until you have mastered the basics. The sheer number of variables you need to account for was one reason that I was happy to shoot digital.

    Good luck,

  6. alex66

    alex66 Mu-43 All-Pro Subscribing Member

    Jul 23, 2010
    Yes the often trotted out advice to the beginner if one film one developer until you have it mastered, many will only use a couple of films slow and fast say and hone down the developing of them until they know exactly what they will get. Part of this equation is that you know exactly how your cameras light meter behaves as well, it can be somewhat surprising to some how 2 different models from the same maker can give a different reading. That being said the darkroom used to be one of my favourite places, so much I still have one but don't use it at the moment due to little child being around and also I see in colour more now and colour printing was is a right pain plus ciba is virtually gone :( 
    If the op wants has the space to print their negs up things like enlargers can be had for a pittance now, I got a high end durst the sort of thing I would have paid well over £1k for 20 years ago for £40. Even the lenses are going cheep cheep now I paid nearly £500 for a Nikor in 93 I bought the equivalent Rodenstock for £15.
    • Like Like x 1
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