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HDR settings with an EM-1

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by judystowell, Jan 9, 2015.

  1. judystowell

    judystowell Mu-43 Regular

    27
    Nov 24, 2013
    Does anyone know - can you change the order the EM-1 snaps the pictures? In a 3-shot bracketing, I think it takes the zero first, then the over-exposed, then the under. I'd like mine to go from darker to lighter, -2, 0, +2. I've looked through the menus and can't find an answer.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
     
  2. Growltiger

    Growltiger Mu-43 Top Veteran

    644
    Mar 26, 2014
    UK
    The HDR settings are not the same as the bracketing settings. I think you are talking about the bracketing settings. There is no way to do what you want, but you can easily put them in any order you want once they are on your computer, so why does it matter?
     
  3. judystowell

    judystowell Mu-43 Regular

    27
    Nov 24, 2013
    You're right - it has to do with bracketing.

    You're right - my issue is with bracketing. Here's my example - say I want to take a low-to-the-ground shot of a wave washing ashore onto a beach. Shot 1, at 0EV, has the wave the furthest out from my camera. Shot 2 is at -2EV, and is about halfway to my camera, and very dark. Shot 3 is at +2. I'd like the -2 to be the first shot, the darkest part of the wave. It all has to do with the timing of the shot. If it were a stationary subject, it wouldn't matter.
     
  4. Growltiger

    Growltiger Mu-43 Top Veteran

    644
    Mar 26, 2014
    UK
    Thanks for the explanation. Clever stuff.

    My only suggestion is to use three cameras, all set differently, very close to each other, and take the photo with them all at the same time, using three smartphones.
     
  5. maritan

    maritan Mu-43 Veteran

    388
    Oct 30, 2014
    :laugh1:

    I don't know how tongue in cheek this suggestion was, but I laughed when I imagined someone with three cameras and three smartphones trying to get this done. I'm sure crazier stuff has been done, but still...
     
  6. eteless

    eteless Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jun 20, 2014
    Separate cameras and wireless triggers would be the easy option... The other way would be to use bracketing and take the two first ones (normal and overexposed) then wait for the real wave and take the under, normal, and over after each other as the first two in the cycle are already used up.
     
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