GX85 Monochrome vs Olympus?

Antigen

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Hi,

what do you think about the Monochrome profile of Lumix GX85? It's better or worse of Olympus EM10 Mk2? And respect to PEN-F? And to Fuji?

Thanks
 

Wasabi Bob

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Better or worse would be an opinion based on personal preference. Very few of us totally relie on the OOC image. For me, my B&W is converted from color images, so it can be what ever way I want them to be. When you shoot in RAW, it's color anyway, so you still need to convert it to B&W. The best camera is the one you use, and like ;-)
 

KBeezie

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What Wasabi Said, best to shoot in raw and do your own B&W conversions to your heart's content.

The main thing the G85 seems to have built in when speaking strictly of monochrome, is the grain effect (both let you set a color filter such as red, orange, green, yellow, which can control the contrast much like B&W film photography). The grain effect on the Oly side would be in the Film Grain which mainly goes overboard and doesn't have much to tweak.

If you do shoot raw and do have Photoshop/Lightroom/ACR (but not any additional stuff like DxO's Nik SilverEFex [formarly the free google nik suite]) you'll get the best tweaking results in Adobe Camera Raw (When you open it for Photoshop) or in Lightroom (non-destructively does the same thing) when you go over to "Black and White", then go to the black and white treatment tab in ACR, pushing/pulling the color sliders will alter the way the black and white renders. (by default if using PS, it'll open the document as a grey gamma profile, but you can force it by switching to something else like sRGB, ProPhoto, AdobeRGB before opening from that dialog if most of your workflow is RGB).
 

ColinM

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If you do shoot raw and do have Photoshop/Lightroom/ACR (but not any additional stuff like DxO's Nik SilverEFex [formarly the free google nik suite]) you'll get the best tweaking results in Adobe Camera Raw (When you open it for Photoshop) or in Lightroom (non-destructively does the same thing) when you go over to "Black and White", then go to the black and white treatment tab in ACR, pushing/pulling the color sliders will alter the way the black and white renders. (by default if using PS, it'll open the document as a grey gamma profile, but you can force it by switching to something else like sRGB, ProPhoto, AdobeRGB before opening from that dialog if most of your workflow is RGB).
If you do the B/W conversion in ACR you can force the pic to open in RGB by going to the split tone tab and setting the shadow saturation to 1. The tone won't be visible but it will force the mode to stay in RGB when you open in PS.

Having said that, I find the best PS-only approach is to open in PS in colour and then use a Black & White adjustment layer for conversion. This has a set of presets for the standard B/W filter effects and a neat adjustment for individual tones. Also, you can use multiple adjustment layers with masking to vary the tone conversion locally.
 

KBeezie

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If you do the B/W conversion in ACR you can force the pic to open in RGB by going to the split tone tab and setting the shadow saturation to 1. The tone won't be visible but it will force the mode to stay in RGB when you open in PS.

Having said that, I find the best PS-only approach is to open in PS in colour and then use a Black & White adjustment layer for conversion. This has a set of presets for the standard B/W filter effects and a neat adjustment for individual tones. Also, you can use multiple adjustment layers with masking to vary the tone conversion locally.
It's more straight forward to just click the link at the bottom and change grey gamma to one of the rgb spaces you work in rather than trying to force it with split toning (what I used to do years ago)

The adjustment layer in PS lacks some of the color options but it is far less destructive and as you said can be tweaked to taste (which I usually do in 16bit mode if I'm shooting raw to being with)
 
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