GF1 viewfinder question

Use the histogram to judge exposure, not the screen image, that is for composition and focusing. When you have been shooting manual exposure (or aperture priority which is the easiest to use with M lenses) for a reasonable time (I have never used programme modes on any camera so I wouldn't know how to start now!) you will have a good idea of what you want and the exposure required any way. The GF-1 works great with manual lenses in aperture priority, so once the focus is fine and the exposure correct with the lens fully open it will adjust the shutter speed as you shut the lens down accordingly. When shooting RAW I tend to push the exposure by around 1/3 rd of a stop from the meter reading, dependent on the scene, as I shoot RAW and the histogram is exposing conservatively for jpg processing, at least on my camera.

 

The GF-1 is giving a new lease of life to all sorts of old, but high quality primes. It's amazing what you can still pick up on e bay for very little money. I got a Minolat 135mm f 2.8 lens for £28 the other week. As sharp on my GF-1 as my Canon 70-200mm f2.8 L on my 1 D mk II, the lens alone on this set up cost three times the price of the GF-1 and lens!
The best thing is it is bringing back photographers to taking control of their cameras. Manually focusing, choosing exposures, shooting RAW....enabling real creativity that was to some extent being stifled by the auto everything cameras of the last few years.
I am sure it wasn't Panasonic's intent to make the best hackable camera going...but they have. I have even shoot some great HD video after hacking the firmware using the 135 mm lens. Amazing stuff for a camera I can fit in my pocket. Tripod is of course an essential item.....
I do occasional teaching sessions at my local art college and have been encouraging student photographers to try this camera and experiment with any old lens they can find. I may set a whole project where they have to shoot video and stills using lenses that they get for less than £20.