GF1 compared to EP-2 at DC Watch

[Amin]

Found this at 1001 Noisy Cameras, a long comparison between the GF1 and E-P2. I have to say, there is simply no better looking combination in MFTdom than an Oly 17 on an E-P1 or E-P2. I think the GF1 is very nice looking, but next to the E-P2, not so much. That said, the GF1 looks great with the Oly 17. I like the look of a chrome lens on a black body.

 

[Linh]

I think if the E-P2 weren't so shiny, I'd like it more. But I have to say I prefer the retro-ish looking camera over the more modern GF1. However, my wallet likes the GF1+20/1.7 deal much much more, haha. Not to mention I'm not a fan of the huge E-P2 viewfinder.

But overall, black on black or chrome on chrome.. not a fan of the clashing colors much, heh.

 

[photographworks]

For what it is worth, I am not very fond of the brushed metal look of the EP-1 (I haven't seen an EP-2 so don't have any opinion on it) but I agree the chrome Olympus lens looks very nice on the black GFI body.

Apart from the photographer liking the camera, there is the question of how the camera looks to the subject. I think that for portraits, the combination of chrome on black looks more 'friendly' from the subject's point of view than the all black GF1.

The Olympus with its 35mm equivalent lens seems like a good combination with the 20mm Panasonic.

I have a question.

In the real world, does the 17mm Olympus lens fit on the Panasonic without any problems (I am thinking of the arguments about whether Leica lenses fitted OK on the Konica Hexar RF or whether it needed shims - something I read about and remembered but never experienced first hand) ?

And does the GF1 autofocus and otherwise behave as well with the Olympus lens as it does with the 20mm Panasonic lens (f2.8 versus f1.7 aside)?

 

[Amin]

I don't have a GF1 but can answer your questions based on my use of the Olympus 17 on my GH1 and G1. On those bodies, the Olympus 17 looks great and behaves very well. The fit is perfect, and the AF takes the same amount of time as the Panasonic 20/1.7. The Olympus lens quickly focuses past the subject, then past it in the other direction, and then back to the subject where it locks. This is in contrast to the Panasonic lens, which gets to the subject in one slow movement. Again, the total focusing time is the same, just 3 movements versus one.

 

[Iansky]

Preference

Even though I agree the EP1/2 looks good, for me personally I prefer the plain black (more brutal) look of the GF1 + 20mm but that is based on my years as a PJ using black Leica M's to capture the world around me.

I do think these micro 4/3rds are incredible and for me they offer a pocket (albeit coat) friendly camera /lens that produces incredible image quality from a good sized sensor yet is still small enough to remain fairly inconspicuous when used on the street.

 

[viztyger]

Aesthetics Preference

My personal aesthetic taste is more in line with Iansky. I prefer the modern, minimalist styling of the GF1. I'm not a fan of multiple finishes, in various shades, never mind shiny ones. But if Olympus could match the AF speed and screen resolution of the GF1, then I would be inclined to overlook aesthetics in favor of built-in stabilization.

 

[chylld]

I think it is dangerous to overlook the importance of image stabilisation. I just went through my GF1 + 20/1.7 photos, and literally 29% of them were soft due to camera shake! These were all indoor photos in available light, but still, that is a lot more 'damage' than I was expecting.

Interestingly, the ones that weren't shaky weren't exactly sharp either; or maybe I've been reading too much about leica glass on steve huff's website Or perhaps the m43 market is still not mature yet.

 

[Bullfrog]

I'm not so sure about the lack of IS being a problem. On a zoom at the long end maybe, but with a short prime what it has forced me to do is really pay attention to correct shutter speed and aperture settings. I do sometimes think that IS can be an unecessary crutch rather than a necessary tool.

Having said that I'll take whatever help I can get!

 

[onyx]

I am a newcomer to this site. I lament the lack of in body IS in the GF1. Like chylld I take many available light shots; it is not always possible to up the shutter speed as Bullfrog suggested. Since both the G1 and the GH1 have in body IS, would it be a reasonable item on the wishlist for GF2? I am trying to hold out until, say, end 2010; but I read somewhere that Panasonic may not be very interested in this. Any guessing by you experienced watchers would be most welcomed.

 

[chylld]

I am a newcomer to this site. I lament the lack of in body IS in the GF1. Like chylld I take many available light shots; it is not always possible to up the shutter speed as Bullfrog suggested. Since both the G1 and the GH1 have in body IS, would it be a reasonable item on the wishlist for GF2? I am trying to hold out until, say, end 2010; but I read somewhere that Panasonic may not be very interested in this. Any guessing by you experienced watchers would be most welcomed.

IS would not be a reasonable item on the GF2 wishlist - Panasonic puts its IS system in the lenses, not the body. A 20/1.7 with IS is not coming soon either as it is nowhere to be seen on the 2010 lens roadmap.

IS is unbelievably helpful even at 20mm (not just tele.) As I've said before, 29% of my shots with the GF1 showed camera shake. I've taken over 200 photos in the 24 hours since I got my EP1, and how many are sharp? ALL OF THEM.

Also the E-P1 writes the EXIF properly so lightroom actually sees a "Lumix G 20/F1.7" lens, not "unknown lens". Also, the E-P1 writes orientation info in each photo, so you don't have to manually rotate photos shot in portrait mode like you do with the GF1.

I feel like I already have the ultimate GF2

 

[Streetshooter]

If for no other reason, the Pen's IS is a great selling point.
With the 20mm, it's a great low light combo.
shooter

 

[onyx]

IS would not be a reasonable item on the GF2 wishlist - Panasonic puts its IS system in the lenses, not the body. A 20/1.7 with IS is not coming soon either as it is nowhere to be seen on the 2010 lens roadmap.

IS is unbelievably helpful even at 20mm (not just tele.) As I've said before, 29% of my shots with the GF1 showed camera shake. I've taken over 200 photos in the 24 hours since I got my EP1, and how many are sharp? ALL OF THEM.

Also the E-P1 writes the EXIF properly so lightroom actually sees a "Lumix G 20/F1.7" lens, not "unknown lens". Also, the E-P1 writes orientation info in each photo, so you don't have to manually rotate photos shot in portrait mode like you do with the GF1.

I feel like I already have the ultimate GF2

Many thanks, chyllid. I came across a comparison of the speed of taking photos between GF1 and E-P1 [presumably not using the recently updated software]: someone reported in this site that the E-P1 and E-P2 did this at 0.6 second. In practice, do you find the GF1 faster? Thanks in advance. Also, I puzzle why the G1 and GH1 have been given in body IS.

 

[Alan Wolf]

G series is Lens IS, not body

Onyx,

I’m almost positive that you’re wrong about the G1 and GH1 having in-body IS. Panasonic has historically gone with in-lens IS, and the general consensus seems to be that they will not go the in body IS-route. I wouldn’t wait for it—if this is a critical function for you, the Pens are the way to go (unless Sony, etc. jump into the fray).

Alan

 

[Brian Mosley]

Alan - you're right, Panasonic always use lens based OIS... which is ideal for video, but adds bulk which precludes it from a number of their lenses.

Cheers

Brian

 

[chylld]

Many thanks, chyllid. I came across a comparison of the speed of taking photos between GF1 and E-P1 [presumably not using the recently updated software]: someone reported in this site that the E-P1 and E-P2 did this at 0.6 second. In practice, do you find the GF1 faster? Thanks in advance. Also, I puzzle why the G1 and GH1 have been given in body IS.

In real-world situations the focus speed is the same. The 20mm is a slow lens to focus and even the GF1 can only AF around the same speed as a point-and-shoot.

I just did a stopwatch test though and here are the results:

Shutter lag: 0.2 seconds
AF (computer monitor, 20cm) : 1.05 seconds
AF (computer monitor, 40cm) : 0.57 seconds
AF (dark subject, 60cm) : 1.44 seconds

These numbers are pretty much meaningless and do not do the E-P1's real-world performance justice

 

[onyx]

Thx to all for pointing out my mistake. Someone in another micro 4/3 site sold her EP2 to buy a GF1, seemingly because of AF delay. I may have to think deeper and wait longer before buying anything for children's sports types of shots.