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GF1 + 20mm or E-pl2 + 14-42

Discussion in 'This or That? (MFT only)' started by elandel, Sep 8, 2011.

  1. elandel

    elandel Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 16, 2010
    Milan, Italy
    Hi,

    I need quick suggestions because tomorrow I have to buy.

    I can buy a GF1+20mm white body for 399 euro: it's new and is the last one so thats the reason for price or E-pl2 + 14-42 used for 350 euro.

    I already have a G2 with 14-42 and 45-200 but I'm very tempted with the GF1 for the 20mm. In another way E-pl2 has IBIS, but I also have the K5 so maybe I can still cope without it for another little while.

    Which to take? Decisions, decisions...

    Please help me decide and don't write about Oly's jpegs ecc.ecc. I already know, but can live without them evedn if I'm a jpeg shooter. I think the Pana can be tweeked to give some very decent OO>C jpegs.

    Thanks.
     
  2. Dan Lopez

    Dan Lopez Mu-43 Veteran

    201
    Aug 12, 2011
    It's a no brainer IMO get the GF1 + 2OMM, the 20mm is an amazing little lens. Cheers!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. mzd

    mzd Mu-43 Veteran

    241
    Nov 30, 2010
    Wisconsin
    Agreed, if you already have a G2 with the 14-42 then the GF1/20mm combo will be a great addition to your setup. The controls on the GF1 make it such a joy to use and I think every :43: user should have the 20mm in their arsenal.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  4. elandel

    elandel Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 16, 2010
    Milan, Italy
    Just bought it: white with 20mm lens. Very beautiful. I love the white one. Any suggestions for first time settings?

    Battery is in charge and tomorrow I'll take my first pics.
     
  5. JCD

    JCD Mu-43 Veteran

    257
    Nov 10, 2010
    Palermo, Italy
    well done! :wink:
     
  6. elandel

    elandel Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 16, 2010
    Milan, Italy
    Thank you.
     
  7. Iansky

    Iansky Mu-43 All-Pro

    Dec 26, 2009
    The Cotswolds, UK
    Congrats on your purchase.

    I use my GF1 +20mm for all my current street work.

    I use only Raw, 100ISO, aperture priority (mostly at f4 for general street) and minus one third EV. Centre spot focus on single shot and depending on lighting, vary between Matrix and spot metering.
    I do have my AF/AE button (top right rear by thumb wheel) set to AE so that I can get the metering right then recompose and focus where I need to.
    All the photos in my site gallery are shot with GF1 and majority using the 20mm.
    I have no doubt that once you become familiar with the combination you will struggle to put it down (I use it more than my DSLR & rangefinder kits)

    Communication_lost.
     
    • Like Like x 4
  8. elandel

    elandel Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 16, 2010
    Milan, Italy
    Thanks Ian,

    Now I should like to ask if you have suggestions for settings for shooting jpegs, because I'm not a sort of raw shooter.
     
  9. Iansky

    Iansky Mu-43 All-Pro

    Dec 26, 2009
    The Cotswolds, UK
    Hi Elandel,

    I must admit to not shooting JPEG at all, I prefer to shoot the Raw and maximise the sensor info for editing and then save a JPEG as required (all my images on this site and on my blogsite are JPEG's from Raw).
    I know there are many on this forum who do shoot JPEG's so I am sure they can offer some advice on that front.

    Good luck and I look forwards to seeing you posting on here soon.
     
  10. elandel

    elandel Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 16, 2010
    Milan, Italy
    Maybe it's time for me to start shooting raw and learn PP. Untill now I've been too lazy.:smile:
    I think I'll start with the bundled Silkypix software (I own a G2 and a K5), but at first glance really love this white thing.
     
  11. carpandean

    carpandean Mu-43 Top Veteran

    827
    Oct 29, 2010
    Western NY
    Great decision. I'm having trouble getting myself to pull the trigger on selling my GF1, knowing that the market price with maybe the 14-42mm, but definitely not the 20mm, is only about $350. Swap in that $300+ 20mm and I'd have trouble selling both for anything short of $600 (probably sold separately.) Even with a package discount (selling both together), I would need well over $500, so $399 is an excellent deal. If you end up not liking the body or the lens, you can sell it for much of what you just paid, and keep the other for $50-$100.
     
  12. elandel

    elandel Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 16, 2010
    Milan, Italy
    Thanks. My only BIG problem is that the more I look at it and the more I love it.:mad:
    So how can I get rid of it? I love it white.
     
  13. krayjeegsr

    krayjeegsr Mu-43 Rookie

    12
    Sep 7, 2011
    Didn't want to start a new thread...but i recently acquired an Epl2 to replace my much beloved GF1. Here are my impressions:

    GF1:
    better build quality
    better handling
    noticeably faster AF
    better screen, maybe same dots, but seems clearer to me
    better face detection

    Epl2:
    nice grip
    IBIS!
    better jpegs and color, WB
    likes to choose higher ISO than GF1
    frustrating menus
    have to input IS focal length, with different lenses
    cheap feeling kit lens (supposedly upgraded, but still not as fast as panny 14-45)
    on playback have to press info, just to check ISO
    camera slows down when using art filters
    letters on mode dial can be rubbed off?!

    I don't know... I am leaning toward keeping the GF1. I guess speed, handling, and build quality are too important to me. What do you guys think?
     
  14. Art

    Art Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 13, 2011
    San Francisco, CA
    I have E-PL2 and had GF2 before (should be similar in speed to GF1). I did not find E-PL2 was slower. The build quality is solid but somewhat worse than GF2 (the back feels plasticky).
    You don't need to enter FL for native lenses, only for MF lenses. Yes, the camera is very slow with art filters (my E-PM1 is much faster). The kit lens is indeed like a cheap plastic toy, I was embarrased to shoot with it and sold it immidiately. The new R lenses definately look better cosmetically.
    At the end of the day, every image E-PL2 produced simply murdered anything I could get from GF2 (colors and WB were especially way off w/horrid noise patterns from ISO400). Now, after sticking with E-PL2 for over 7 months I find the menu pretty easy to use. IBIS helps tremendously with Panny 20 so is 1/400s flash sync (w/manual flash)
     
  15. I haven't used or even handled either camera, so I can only give my impression from the outside looking in. I have for a long while toyed with the idea of purchasing a GF1 to use as my compact m4/3 body, but (in Australia, anyway) the used prices still remain high. However, from recent experience using an E-PL1, I have decided that the E-PL2 is higher on my list than the GF1. It fixes my only real misgivings about the E-PL1; being the min. shutter speed of 1/2000s and the lack of a control wheel. Along with my GH1 I imagine the E-PL2 would keep me entertained for quite some time.
     
  16. elandel

    elandel Mu-43 All-Pro

    Apr 16, 2010
    Milan, Italy
    It's all down to what we consider important and what are our priorities.

    For example, I can't get used to shoot using the LCD so I NEED a viewfinder of some kind. So I'm going to buy a LVF1 for my GF1.

    But thats MY needs, for someone else other things could be important.