g80/85 + 100-400 + planes

[blackfox wildlife]

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a few from today aside from duplications and heat haze shots 3/4 of my shots were useable ,very pleased

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[wjiang]

Did you mean to insert each image twice?

 

[Andrewmap]

Hi Blackfox wildlife, very nice shots: what camera set up are you using? I use a Panasonic G1 & G5 with an Olympus 12-50 and a Panasonic 45-200 (good but the reach is a bit low, probably need the Panasonic 100-300 for flying displays).

These are some of my efforts from Shuttleworth's Navy Day this year (the B+W are converted using NIK Collection's Silver Fx).

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[Andrewmap]

Thanks for the thumbs up, guys. I had problems with the G5 at this show, there were horrible spots everywhere (you can see one above the port wingtip on the Catalina shot) and they were all in the same place on different images, especially at small apertures - f/8 to f/16 (and looking back on past images the spots were evident then), so I have retired the G5: pity it is a nice camera and the hand grip is just right for me.

 

[barry]

Thanks for the thumbs up, guys. I had problems with the G5 at this show, there were horrible spots everywhere (you can see one above the port wingtip on the Catalina shot) and they were all in the same place on different images, especially at small apertures - f/8 to f/16 (and looking back on past images the spots were evident then), so I have retired the G5: pity it is a nice camera and the hand grip is just right for me.

Hi, sounds like you need to clean the sensor.

 

[RichardC]

Hi, sounds like you need to clean the sensor.

Looking at the size and softness of the mark, I think it would be worth trying a different lens at f8 to see if it goes. I'm thinking that the mark looks like it could be on the rear of the lens rather than the sensor.

 

[Andrewmap]

Thanks for the replies, folks, much appreciated.

Barry13: Are the sensor wipes you can buy on line any good? I have not tried any yet.

RichardC: I did some test shots with my G3 and the G5 (with the same lens I used at the air show), at the same ISO, shutter and apertures and could not see any marks on the G3 test shots.

 

[RichardC]

Thanks for the replies, folks, much appreciated.

Barry13: Are the sensor wipes you can buy on line any good? I have not tried any yet.

RichardC: I did some test shots with my G3 and the G5 (with the same lens I used at the air show), at the same ISO, shutter and apertures and could not see any marks on the G3 test shots.

Okay - just a thought

 

[RichardC]

I had a similar splodge on some of my pictures earlier this year and I thought it had gone. Will check now. There's a fairly large airshow in Gloucestershire that I'm off to this weekend.

 

[Andrewmap]

We are off to Duxford this coming Saturday, prop jobs all the way!

 

[barry]

Thanks for the replies, folks, much appreciated.

Barry13: Are the sensor wipes you can buy on line any good? I have not tried any yet.

RichardC: I did some test shots with my G3 and the G5 (with the same lens I used at the air show), at the same ISO, shutter and apertures and could not see any marks on the G3 test shots.

Hi, there's many threads here on sensor cleaning and lots of different opinions.
Personally, I use a rocket blower first, and if that doesn't help, then Q-tip swabs with a bit of isopropol alcohol (rubbing alcohol is not a great idea as it has mineral oil added, which would leave a residue).
But anything designed to clean sensors should be fine.

 

[Petrochemist]

Looking at the size and softness of the mark, I think it would be worth trying a different lens at f8 to see if it goes. I'm thinking that the mark looks like it could be on the rear of the lens rather than the sensor.

I've never seen a mark on the image from muck on the rear of the lens - it usually just reduces contrast.
At wider apertures sensor muck can leave such spread out shadows that it's just not noticeable even against clear skies.

 

[RichardC]

Well......I have to admit, neither have I! However, I would expect dust on the sensor to be more sharply defined - hence I asked the question.

I ran some tests myself today with my 40-150 plus converter and I have some similar diffused marks on some images. They are only visible with dehaze cranked up to about 80 in lightroom, and, as you have implied, only at smaller apertures f11-f22.

I’ll try some different lenses tomorrow. But considering I tend to shoot everything between wide-open and f8, I won’t get my sensor scrubbed just yet.

 

[Andrewmap]

Good morning,

Thanks for all the hints and tips; I will get some swabs before I retire the G5 and give the sensor a good cleaning, then try some more test shots. I used to have a blower brush in the 'old' days of film, but have not bought one since I have had digital kit: there was a school of thought back then that it might cause more problems than it sorted: any thoughts as to their usefulness with digital?

And I will try to limit apertures to a maximum of f/8 and low ISO to get spinning props in future: just hope my panning is up to it!

Thank you all once again.

 

[Petrochemist]

Good morning,

Thanks for all the hints and tips; I will get some swabs before I retire the G5 and give the sensor a good cleaning, then try some more test shots. I used to have a blower brush in the 'old' days of film, but have not bought one since I have had digital kit: there was a school of thought back then that it might cause more problems than it sorted: any thoughts as to their usefulness with digital?

And I will try to limit apertures to a maximum of f/8 and low ISO to get spinning props in future: just hope my panning is up to it!

Thank you all once again.

I tend to switch to shutter priority for props. 1/250s or even 1/500s might be OK for high performance aircraft like ww2 fighters, 1/125s is usually needed for biplanes & helicopters can want slower still. At least with S mode you can try different speeds easily with a quick flick of the dial. Take a few you're confident will be shake free then gradually decrease the speed...

 

[Andrewmap]

I tend to switch to shutter priority for props. 1/250s or even 1/500s might be OK for high performance aircraft like ww2 fighters, 1/125s is usually needed for biplanes & helicopters can want slower still. At least with S mode you can try different speeds easily with a quick flick of the dial. Take a few you're confident will be shake free then gradually decrease the speed...

I will probably stick to the first set you mentioned for Duxford this weekend, but later in the year (October) we are hoping to visit Shuttleworth again where the planes are a little more sedate. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Bristolero]

Did you mean to insert each image twice?

Perhaps excessive shutter shock?

 

[blackfox wildlife]

out on the local airfield again Saturday hoping to catch a few incoming from the Rhyl air show , unfortunately the weather forecast led to a lot of cancellations and some just doing Saturday and cancelling the Sunday demos . including this Blenheim bomber , luckily we have super ATC in the tower and he requested a fly past for us (about 15 of us there) the pilot duly obliged and did a spectacular high speed dive just for us this is probably the best one of a set

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whoosh by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr

 

[blackfox wildlife]

this yak did land though , hard to get shooting into the sun

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the russians are coming by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr

 

[blackfox wildlife]

and got the diamond air taking off , google DEA its not what you think, call sign white knight
the weird one by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr

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the weird one by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr