G3 seems to need bump in white balance on every photo

Discussion in 'Image Processing' started by greenjp, Apr 9, 2015.

  1. greenjp

    greenjp Mu-43 Regular

    May 15, 2014
    I recently got Optics Pro 8 (they were giving it away for free) and started shooting raw. I find that it's default settings produces slightly nicer looking overall JPGs than the camera itself does. Additionally, I have noticed that almost every shot seems to benefit from one to three clicks to a higher color temperature. This is most evident in skin tones (particularly my fair skinned daughters), which the camera seems to render in a flat, too-cool color much of the time.

    The camera has quite a few color temperature presets, as well as a manual option and a fine adjustment where you can tweak the hue via amber/blue and green/magenta shifts. The hue seems to be OK most of the time, occasionally taking a click in either the green or magenta direction but never more than one. There's also a bracketing feature but I'm not too keen on double or tripling the number of files I'm generating!

    Any tips on getting the camera dialed in better up front, or Optics Pro 8 workflow hints?
  2. mrmessy

    mrmessy Mu-43 Rookie

    Mar 12, 2012
    My experience using the G3 and SilkPix is that most pictures need a little more exposure. This does not bother me to much as it helps preserve the dynamic range at the top end which is easily clipped. I have not found myself making many changes to white balance. SilkyPix defaults to the cameras autowhite balance.
  3. mcasan

    mcasan Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 26, 2014
    This is part of why we have presets in Lightroom. You can easily create, select, and use multiple sets of Develop Module adjustments to produce the desire effect. You can use a preset as part of the import process and apply other presets after import.
  4. Steven

    Steven Mu-43 All-Pro

    May 25, 2012
    Unfortunately, there is no easy fix. Some companies clearly do it better , like Fuji, Kodak. That protect takes decades of experience by teams of engineers . Panasonic is getting better. Gx7 is better than Gx1(same sensor as G3).
    You can try setting the auto WB setting a little warmer and see if that looks better for you. The cloudy option usually works too.
  5. Ulfric M Douglas

    Ulfric M Douglas Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 6, 2010
    Firstly, I agree.
    My solution is to never ever let the camera auto-Whitebalance.
    I set it to daylight (the one after sunny, maybe that's cloudy) so it won't change, then went to tweak the global whitebalance until the colours were mostly OK.
    My older G1 needed a global WB tweak but was better at consistent auto-WB.
  6. tkbslc

    tkbslc Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Are you sure your monitor is calibrated properly? I would hate to think you are bumping color temperature in every photo only to find that it is your monitor that is too cool, and not your photos.

    If it is calibrated, then create a preset starting point that incorporates a little of your color correction. For JPEGs you can change the settings in camera to be a little warmer, but this will not affect RAW files in DxO.
  7. greenjp

    greenjp Mu-43 Regular

    May 15, 2014
    Thanks for the feedback everybody. I have a couple months of experience with the camera and Optics Pro since the original post. To the last question about the monitor calibration, no it is not calibrated per se, but I have verified by printing (I did some "bracketing" tests) that the pictures do indeed look better with the 1-3 click increase in color temperature in most cases, and that what I see on the screen is a good enough representation of what gets printed.

    My process is still as above, I leave the camera in auto WB and adjust the raw in Optics Pro, a few clicks on +WB from the As Shot and sometimes a hue adjustment if the green/magenta balance looks messed up. Two things I cannot figure out:
    1) how to bias the camera's auto WB to be ~100-150 K higher than it would select by itself (I don't think amber/blue and green/magenta do this)
    2) how to set up an Optics Pro preset that takes the camera's As Shot WB and adds some fixed amount to it. You can use a preset WB (daylight, shade, cloudy, etc), or a fixed custom value (5100k or whatever), but there doesn't seem to be a way to set it to "As Shot + 150K".

    Nonetheless I have a process figured out that works for me so perhaps I just toil at it until I get a newer body with better auto WB, and/or work harder to get the WB right when taking the pictures in the first place.