Focus Stacking Artifacts with EM1 II

Growltiger

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There are single dots in a few of the photos that I have checked. I'm sure they are just being repeated in the stacks, but they end up being lines because of the different focal planes.
Have you checked to see if any of them are bad pixels?
It sounds as if they may not be bad pixels and this is indeed a stacking artefact. I suspect the problem is caused by the sharpness of the tiny point of light, which makes the software think they are genuine tiny sharp areas, which therefore need to be included in lots of focal planes.
It would be interesting to see the stacking result for this photo from the best stacking software. I know you tried Photoshop which is OK but you should really be trying Helicon Focus. I think you could try the free trial. It has several stacking methods you can try.
 
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Bushboy

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Have you reached a conclusion?
If I can get away without doing all that computer work, like bracketing 50 pics, importing to computer, opening up the software, waiting for it do it’s thing, and saving to photos...
Get my head around and get better at, in camera stacking, just let the camera do it in situ, and the resulting pics are acceptable to me, and I’m not very fussy, just want a good pic, I’ll be well pleased.
I’m only going to do in camera stacking for next couple of months and see how that goes.
Without trying both techniques, solidly, how will I ever know?
That’s my plan , and I’m sticking to it....
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2014
Messages
10,208
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Southwest Utah
Have you reached a conclusion?
If I can get away without doing all that computer work, like bracketing 50 pics, importing to computer, opening up the software, waiting for it do it’s thing, and saving to photos...
Get my head around and get better at, in camera stacking, just let the camera do it in situ, and the resulting pics are acceptable to me, and I’m not very fussy, just want a good pic, I’ll be well pleased.
I’m only going to do in camera stacking for next couple of months and see how that goes.
Without trying both techniques, solidly, how will I ever know?
That’s my plan , and I’m sticking to it....
I think the process is so easy, it’s worth further investigation. All of my streaked phots were lit with an LED light, so that might have been the problem.
 

Mack

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Harvey, I have a test series where I was playing around with the 60mm macro and a small toy car that's about two inches long that I placed on a gray card and did a focus stacking of with the E1 Mark II using a LED viewing desklamp. Camera was also tripod mounted so any hand-held registration shifts shouldn't enter in the stacking. I never saw any extra artifacts in the series as I was trying to null the RGB gray card values in camera so I took a whole bunch of them.

Car 60mm.jpg
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I was in CWB mode though and based off my color temperature meter to start using a Fillex LED viewing light ( Fillex Viewing Lamp ) that measured out at 4,800K (It was set to 6,000K, but it is not and it also changes with the magnetic dome diffuser cover too.). The Fiilex and camera on CWB might be part of why I never saw any artifacts. I have another cheaper LED light that flickers very quick and has caused me issues in the past, but mostly banding and color tint issues. Haven't seen any spots yet.

Aside, I did find to null the gray card so the RGB values were all the same in CWB, I had to add a +5 Amber and -3 Green to the E1 Mark II settings menu for CWB in their newest firmware version which Olympus added from the E-M1X. Olympus seems to differ in what they use for their CWB settings against my Nikons which are spot on with the Sekonic color meter, but that's another story.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 15, 2014
Messages
10,208
Location
Southwest Utah
Harvey, I have a test series where I was playing around with the 60mm macro and a small toy car that's about two inches long that I placed on a gray card and did a focus stacking of with the E1 Mark II using a LED viewing desklamp. I never saw any extra artifacts in the series as I was trying to null the RGB gray card values in camera so I took a whole bunch of them.

View attachment 763941

I was in CWB mode though and based off my color temperature meter to start using a Fillex LED viewing light ( Fillex Viewing Lamp ) that measured out at 4,800K (It was set to 6,000K, but it is not and it also changes with the magnetic dome diffuser cover too.). The Fiilex and camera on CWB might be part of why I never saw any artifacts. I have another cheaper LED light that flickers very quick and has caused me issues in the past, but mostly banding and color tint issues. Haven't seen any spots yet.

Aside, I did find to null the gray card so the RGB values were all the same in CWB, I had to add a +5 Amber and -3 Green to the E1 Mark II settings menu for CWB in their newest firmware version which Olympus added from the E-M1X. Olympus seems to differ in what they use for their CWB settings against my Nikons which are spot on with the Sekonic color meter, but that's another story.
I think my issue was the LED lighting up very small specs under the shroom. I should try using a flash and seeing if that is still the same. I haven't found any hot pixels on my images, so I doubt that was the problem.
 
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