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Flash question

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Screamin Scott, Feb 20, 2014.

  1. Screamin Scott

    Screamin Scott Mu-43 Regular

    39
    Jan 13, 2014
    Atlanta Ga. Metro
    I'm using an E-P3 with a VF-4 on it. As such, I cannot mount anything else in the shoe & the on board flash isn't suitable for macro shooting. I realize that radio poppers won't work either. That said, has anyone here used optical triggers or have any other suggestions for off camera flash lighting ?
     
  2. billbooz

    billbooz Mu-43 Regular

    198
    Jan 23, 2014
    Lynchburg, VA USA
    William H. Booz
    I have used radio triggers on my E-PL3 and E-PL5 to fire external, off-camera flash, Scott. I have the super inexpensive CowboyStudio triggers (c. $30) and have used them with a Canon flash, A Yongnuo, and a Neewer flash, the latter two being sub-$100 flash units.
     
  3. Droogie

    Droogie Mu-43 Veteran

    297
    Feb 23, 2013
    Washington State
    I use the Yonguo 560 II and fire it with the on board flash on my G3. Works perfect. I made a DIY bounce for the G3 on camera flash out of a plastic milk jug to soften the light and use a shoot through umbrella for the Yonguo 560 II. Most excellent set up and easy to use. I would never buy a flash if it didn't have the optical slave function.
     
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  4. Screamin Scott

    Screamin Scott Mu-43 Regular

    39
    Jan 13, 2014
    Atlanta Ga. Metro
    So, how are you mounting the triggers if you have an EFV in the hot shoe?
     
  5. ThomD

    ThomD Mu-43 Veteran

    424
    Jun 1, 2013
    SF Bay Area
    I think they missed your Q about optical triggers. I do not have your camera, but with the Pany G6 I can use either a Metz (smart) or Yonguo (dumb) with the optical trigger from the on camera flash. OTOH, with the G2 I could not, so you should check your user manual for what is supported. If it says the Oly flashes will work off camera, then you should be OK.
     
  6. fin azvandi

    fin azvandi Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 12, 2011
    South Bend, IN
    I shoot macro with the E-P3 and VF-2, using the pop-up flash to trigger an off-camera speed light in slave mode.

    Also, before getting the external flash I was getting pretty nice light just with the pop-up flash and a DIY extender/diffuser made out of aluminum foil, cardboard, and paper towel.
     
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  7. Screamin Scott

    Screamin Scott Mu-43 Regular

    39
    Jan 13, 2014
    Atlanta Ga. Metro
    My main niche is macro & the question was in part a reference to lighting macro subjects.... I have done extensive macro & close up with my Nikon DSLR & older manual focus macro lenses & was wanting to test the waters with M43's... The inability of mounting anything else in the hotshoe when a EFV was mounted prompted my question.... I have had lots of views on my Flickr stream of a tree frog (made #6 on Explore the other day & over 50K views)
     
  8. fin azvandi

    fin azvandi Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 12, 2011
    South Bend, IN
    Congratulations on your success! But from your reply I get the sense you think people haven't answered your question - the way to use off-camera flash with the E-P3 is to use the pop-up flash to trigger your existing speedlight set in dumb slave mode.

    By the way, the other, more expensive option would be to get a compatible flash that uses the Olympus Remote Commander system such as the FL-36R or FL-600R. With those flashes you have full control over the flash output through a signal sent by the E-P3's pop-up flash. That is the method I use currently.
     
  9. Screamin Scott

    Screamin Scott Mu-43 Regular

    39
    Jan 13, 2014
    Atlanta Ga. Metro
    Not at all. I realized that that was the best option....I was just pointing out the obvious fact that the one poster was talking about using radio triggers & had evidently not really read or understood my original post since they cannot be used if another accessory occupies the hot shoe. For those who may be curious to see the image I have with over 50,000 views in 3 days.... Here's a link http://www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/12551914963/in/gallery-crashingcolors-72157641085963575/


     
  10. RDM

    RDM Mu-43 All-Pro

    This is no problem at all .. Just get your self an LED macro light ... It screws onto the filter just like a macro flash but is a constant light source with just an on and off switch.
     
  11. Screamin Scott

    Screamin Scott Mu-43 Regular

    39
    Jan 13, 2014
    Atlanta Ga. Metro
    I have several older ring/point lights that I use with my Nikon gear & also had purchased an LED ringlight. It sits unused as it is too underpowered, plus the "flash" function of it is much too long in duration to be of much value... The true ring lights allow me to stop down to F16-F32 & the short duration of the flash stops the motion of my subjects (mainly insects) & my own movement. The LED works if the camera is on a tripod & the subject is static, but the insects often move too much for that scenario to be used. I'll be using the onboard flash to trip a slave flash for my illumination. Shame I can't rig up my ring point lights though...
     
  12. bikerhiker

    bikerhiker Mu-43 All-Pro

    Dec 24, 2013
    Canada
    David
    I have an E-PL1 with a VF-2 and use it to trigger my Olympus FL-36R flash for close-up photography with my 40-150 IIR zoom lens with great success.

    You can approach it in 2 ways. Either use it as a TTL RC flash (you will have automatic balanced flash control with power control) or as a AA (Auto Aperture) slave mode. These features are available on the FL-36R and all Olympus flashes. Not sure about all the non-Olympus ones.

    For a long reach shot over 100mm, I would recommend using the TTL RC flash mode. This allows you to control power output of the external flash from your E-P3, especially if you are using a light modifier attachment for the flash.

    For a close shot with a shorter focal length like 45 to 60mm would be to use the AA (auto-aperture) slave mode and alter power output from the flash itself. This way, your on-board flash triggers the external flash, but can be set to emit a much lower light output, and thus NOT influence your final exposure output compared to RC mode. It also will allow triggering of the slave flash in more extreme angles than the Olympus RC mode; which to me is a bit inferior against the Nikon iTTL wireless flash system.

    The setup is typical off to the side. You can buy light modifiers to make a normal flash into a ring light, turn the head and let the light sensor facing the on-board camera flash so it can be triggered. You may need to rig up a tripod to hold this setup and then you point your lens through this hole.

    Hope this helps..
     
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