Faster AF point selection using d-pad on G80/G85?

[frankmulder]

Consider the following scenario:

• The flip screen is flipped inwards (touchscreen is not available) and I'm composing using the EVF.
• The camera is in AFS, single area mode.
  
• My focus point is on the left of the screen, but now I'm photographing a different subject that's so I want to move the focus point to the right of the screen.

The quickest way I have found to do this, is setting Direct Focus Area to ON and then holding the 'right' button on the directional pad until the focus point is where I want it to be. However, this still takes about 3 seconds. The focus point moves in small increments and not very quickly.

For comparison, I have tried the same thing on an Olympus E-M5, which shows a 7x5 grid of focus points (so the increments are larger). There, pressing the 'right' button 6 times gets me to the other end of the screen, in less than 2 seconds. I can even press the left button twice, which also gets me to the far right (even more quickly). And I can use the dials to move the focus point as well.

My question is: Do you know of any way to select the AF point more quickly on the G80/G85?

When composing using Live View, using the touch screen is quick and feels natural to me. But when composing using the EVF, I have the following issues:

• When the screen is facing outwards, my nose presses the touchscreen so it moves the AF point when I don't want it to (both is OFFSET and EXACT modes).
• When I flip the screen out to the side, I can use it to select the AF point (just like the image in chapter 4 of the manual shows) and have no issues with my nose touching the screen. But apart from it looking a bit awkward, it means my left hand can no longer hold the camera so I have a less balanced grip. I find this uncomfortable, especially when using longer lenses.

So it seems that when I use the EVF, using the d-pad is still the best solution. But that's not very quick. Any ideas how to speed it up? Or any alternatives?

 

[stagor]

I always shoot with the rear screen closed, and look through the evf. I have the point of focus permanently set to the middle, I firstly compose my shot if using a zoom lens and set my aperture, if my point of focus happens to be off centre I then move the camera to put the point of focus in the centre, half press the shutter button to obtain focus, then holding the half press move the camera back to my original composition and continue to press the shutter. holding the half press requires practice, but is absolutely not difficult, this method is also easy for moving subjects when you know where you wish to take the photo, example motor sports, focus on the piece of road where you want the subject with a held half press, hold the shutter button move your camera panning the subject pressing all the way at the point in the road you have just focused on, important, keep on panning after you have pressed the shutter.

 

[PeeBee]

Mine is also usually set to the centre focus point and I often use focus and recompose. That said, I have my camera set up in a way that allows me to change the AF point quickly should I need to. I have Touch AF set to off, Fn1 set to 'Set Focus Area' and Touchpad AF set to 'Offset'. With the screen facing outwards, touching (by finger or nose) does not move the focus point unless I press Fn1 first. When I need to adjust the focus point, Pressing Fn1 calls up the focus point and it instantly jumps to where I touch on screen, dragging my finger allows for a quick fine adjustment. Half pressing the shutter then sets the focus point and focuses ready to take the shot. To centre the focus point again, I press Fn1 and then press display, again, a half press of the shutter will set the point and focus.

Edit: The above doesn't work quite as i described. When the camera lifted to the eye, touchpad AF overrides the need to press Fn1, so I guess it's still possible to move the AF point with your nose, but its very quick to rectify with the touchscreen.

 

[BosseBe]

There is also the "Back button focus" option where you use the AEF/AFL button to lock focus.
I think you basically do what Stagor said, but use the AEF/AFL button to lock focus.
I have tried it but not for long enough to say how good it works,

 

[retiredfromlife]

I find the D pad far too slow, so i put up with few nose plants and just use my finger to drag the focus point. I now keep my face a bit further back but framing suffers a bit.

My next camera may have a joystick for this reason

 

[mumu]

Consider the following scenario:

• The flip screen is flipped inwards (touchscreen is not available) and I'm composing using the EVF.
• The camera is in AFS, single area mode.
  
• My focus point is on the left of the screen, but now I'm photographing a different subject that's so I want to move the focus point to the right of the screen.

The quickest way I have found to do this, is setting Direct Focus Area to ON and then holding the 'right' button on the directional pad until the focus point is where I want it to be. However, this still takes about 3 seconds. The focus point moves in small increments and not very quickly.

That's what I do.

For comparison, I have tried the same thing on an Olympus E-M5, which shows a 7x5 grid of focus points (so the increments are larger). There, pressing the 'right' button 6 times gets me to the other end of the screen, in less than 2 seconds. I can even press the left button twice, which also gets me to the far right (even more quickly). And I can use the dials to move the focus point as well.

Well, if you want to emulate the E-M5, you could use the custom AF pattern. Make it about the same size as on the E-M5 and it should move just as quickly.

 

[frankmulder]

That's what I do.

Cool, so I'm not the only one.

Well, if you want to emulate the E-M5, you could use the custom AF pattern. Make it about the same size as on the E-M5 and it should move just as quickly.

I got excited for a moment, but it seems that you cannot move the focus point around after setting a custom AF pattern...

 

[archaeopteryx]

I think you basically do what Stagor said, but use the AEF/AFL button to lock focus.

AFL is indeed equivalent to Stan's half press approach. In back button focus the shutter button no longer triggers focusing at either half or full press. Some other button, often AEL/AFL, is instead assigned to trigger focus.

I have tried it but not for long enough to say how good it works.

What we're discussing is variations of focus and recompose. In all of them, recomposing rotates the camera and therefore the plane of focus through some angle. The result is the camera's no longer focused on the point where autofocus was performed. Photographers sometimes don't recognize this and, rather than find their trigonometric skills lacking, conclude their fast lenses are soft wide open.

 

[mumu]

Cool, so I'm not the only one.
I got excited for a moment, but it seems that you cannot move the focus point around after setting a custom AF pattern...

Disclaimer: I've never used the custom multi-point AF in actual use BUT when I turn it on, I can definitely move it around the screen, just like I can with a single area AF.

 

[frankmulder]

Disclaimer: I've never used the custom multi-point AF in actual use BUT when I turn it on, I can definitely move it around the screen, just like I can with a single area AF.

Interesting. On my G80, this only works for the horizontal, vertical and center patterns, but not for the C1, C2 and C3 settings.

 

[mumu]

Interesting. On my G80, this only works for the horizontal, vertical and center patterns, but not for the C1, C2 and C3 settings.

Ah, I didn't try the C1-3 settings.