Fast zoom lens for EP-L2

Discussion in 'Adapted Lenses' started by PSH, Jul 6, 2011.

  1. PSH

    PSH Mu-43 Regular

    40
    Jul 6, 2011
    I'm looking for a bright zoom lens for the E-PL2.
    Since there's no such lens on native lens, I believe I have to go for adapted lens.
    What is your suggestion on a zoom lens (around 50-200) with f2.8-3.5 or similar.
    I know there is one Olympus lens like this. Will this work ? What other options are ?
    It's fundamental that AF and IBIS work with this adapted lens.
    Will I loose any aperture of the lens or it mantains the aperture on the mft body ?

    Thanks for any suggestion.
     
  2. Peezie

    Peezie Mu-43 Regular

    137
    Mar 30, 2011
    Toronto
    Someone correct me if I'm wrong but, I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that AF is not possible with adapted lenses.

    Hope this helped a little bit. ...

    Sent from my iPhone using Mu-43 App
     
  3. The Zuiko Digital 4/3 50-200mm f2.8-3.5 will have full autofocus and aperture control on an E-PL2, but they are quite expensive and the autofocus will be very slow. I'm not sure if the later SWD model will autofocus any faster.
     
  4. Ulfric M Douglas

    Ulfric M Douglas Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 6, 2010
    Northumberland
    What Penguin said.
    There is a 4/3rds lens, very very good but works much better on the 4/3rds DSLR than with adapter on micro-4/3rds.
    You won't lost aperture or autofocus but you will lose all semblance of speediness.

    To summarise ;
    Olympus 50-200 4/3rds will give you F2.8-3.5 but will autofocus rather slowly on the e-pL2 with adapter.
     
  5. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    P6223920.


    not to mention a little unwieldy !!!!!
     
  6. Lol! Is that the SWD version? Do you have the MMF-1/2 to check the autofocus speed? The original non-SWD is glacial.
     
  7. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    yes it is the swd version... Just tried it on on the e-p1 with the proper adaptor.... and then with the e-510 - definitely much slower on the e-p1 but wouldn't define it as glacial....merely patience testing :)

    none the less it is a gorgeous lens

    5838889925_976c7b372e_z.
    apple of my eye by kevinparis, on Flickr

    3590648948_c768ef60ae_z.
    simon by kevinparis, on Flickr

    K
     
  8. No arguments here.
     
  9. PSH

    PSH Mu-43 Regular

    40
    Jul 6, 2011
    That lens is what I had in mind.

    The problema is that I shoot a lot of Judo indoor photos, and with the Oly 14-150 I cannot achieve an acceptable shutter speed without getting a very dark photo.
    I was hoping to find a lens that I could shoot over 1/250, indoor, without being dark.
    The other option I see is to have some fast pancakes, but that is also expensive and takes me flexibility.

    I was hoping to find a way to shoot at that speed (over 1/250) but with clarity.

    Any advices ?
     
  10. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    At maximum zoom the 14-150 is f5.6 wide open and the 50-200 is at f3.5 so you are gaining 1 and 1/3 stops.

    One stop is the difference between ISO 400 or ISO 800 or the difference between 1/125 or 1/250.

    Now this can be useful.... but it isn't a quantum leap in performance.

    One thing that has often helped me when shooting in low or poor light was to switch to spot metering and try and get a reading from an area of the subject that is best lit such as a face. I would also shoot aperture priority with the aperture set as wide as it will go, ISO set as high as you feel comfortable with qualitywise.

    Also a monopod is a useful thing to use to give you a bit more stability

    If you are still getting low shutter speeds, then the only solution is throwing some more light at the problem.

    post some examples of what you have achieved so far and maybe the collective mind here might be able offer some more assitance

    K
     
  11. PSH

    PSH Mu-43 Regular

    40
    Jul 6, 2011
    Let's look at this example.

    [​IMG]
    f5.4 - 1/30s - ISO 800 - +0.3EV - 75mm

    This was shot in P mode.

    In terms of brightness and noise it's ok, but the shutter speed is to slow and I got a shaked photo.
    The problem is that if I speed up the shutter to 1/250, then I get a good freezed photo, but very very dark.
    I still did not try to go upper in ISO, because I believe that more than 800 will be very noisy.

    What is the solution, on a m43 body, to take a bright photo, but with freezed movements ?
     
  12. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    Yes, the Zuiko 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 SWD is an excellent choice. I use it on my E-PL2 all the time, and love it. The combination of E-PL2 and SWD lens focuses quite fast. On the E-P1 all lenses were slow, and non-SWD lenses are a little slower still. I'm not sure if the SWD is supposed to make a difference or not, but I seem to feel a difference... for sure it makes Manual Focus easier. Compared to other Four-Thirds lenses I use on my E-PL2, the 50-200mm SWD is not that far off of the CDAF optimized ones (like the Zuiko 25mm f/2.8 pancake - which is really fast on the E-PL2). Taking into account that it's a large super-telephoto with a very long travel, of course.

    As far as ease of wielding, the 50-200mm SWD is actually very easy to use on the PEN, but you need to learn one simple trick - keep the tripod ring attached. I turn the tripod ring to the left, which allows it to support on my wrist (landscape position) or palm of my hand (portrait position), while freeing my fingers to operate the zoom and focus rings.

    When holding a large telephoto like this on a smaller body (even a DSLR), you support the setup towards the center, on the lens and not the body. So supporting the weight is only a little different on a DSLR as on a PEN. However, the problem comes in trying to manipulate lens rings for focus, zoom, and possibly aperture, when you're supporting the weight of the camera on the same hand. For this, the tripod ring from the Zuiko 50-200mm SWD comes in extremely handy. With a large DSLR like the E-5 for instance, you shift the weight to your right hand with that big grip when you operate the lens rings with your left, then shift that weight back to the left hand to steady your shot. You do have a better balance between hands to shift weight back and forth.
     
  13. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    The issue has nothing to do with it being a m43 body - you would have the same issue with any camera.

    All photography is a battle to try and balance aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

    Looking at your shot I can see that there is some reasonable light in the room - look at the harsh shadow behind the people along the wall.

    I think your problem is that your camera is metering the whole scene and is coming up with a shutter speed that is lower than needed to capture the subject of your shot. Notice how the judo shirts are overexposed.

    If you used spot metering on the shirts then you would get a higher shutter speed. Of course the mats and surroundings would get darker... but that is the compromise you have to make.

    As the lighting will be fairly constant I maybe tempted once I found an exposure that works to switch to manual and shoot that way,

    My only other comment is that you should get closer to your subject and fill the frame with the subject

    hope this gives you some ideas of things to try out

    cheers

    K
     
  14. PSH

    PSH Mu-43 Regular

    40
    Jul 6, 2011
    So Ned, you believe I will not have any problema in focusing on sport photos ?
    And do you think I can get a diference in this kind of photos with that adapted lens over the 14-150 Oly lens ?

    Thanks Kevin. Maybe i'll have to try something more with the 14-150, before investing on the 50-200.
     
  15. kevinparis

    kevinparis Cantankerous Scotsman

    Feb 12, 2010
    Gent, Belgium
    In my opinion your photographic technique is out by more than the extra stop and a bit that the 50-200 will offer you.

    If you can't refine your technique or control the lighting to get good exposures at say 1/125 with your current lens then a faster lens will not allow you to achieve your aims.

    K
     
  16. Ned

    Ned Mu-43 Legend

    Jul 18, 2010
    Alberta, Canada
    If I don't have any issues with the E-PL2, you should definitely not have issues with the E-P3. Of course I haven't been able to try the E-P3 yet, but it should be even faster still... although they say there's not much difference with Four-Thirds lenses.

    I find S-AF to be plenty fast and reliable, though I prefer to use Manual Focus to track moving subjects.

    Absolutely. It's a much brighter lens which will allow you to get clear photos without bumping up the ISO and degrading image quality. But it's also a much sharper lens which will produce better image quality. You'll also find that the Zuiko 50-200mm seems to have a magical way of nailing a perfect, even exposure consistently every time. There's just a certain intrinsic quality to the lens which I can't exactly put in words. When you start building a collection of quality glass, you'll understand. They each have their own character.
     
  17. PSH

    PSH Mu-43 Regular

    40
    Jul 6, 2011
    Got it. I guess I have to study more :frown:

    :wink:

    I don't have an E-P3. I have an E-PL2.

    I think I will first refine my technique and then I'll think about upgrading the lens. It's a €1000 upgrade. :)
     
  18. avidone

    avidone Mu-43 Top Veteran

    520
    Jun 24, 2011
    Rome, Italy
    if you are willing to do a bit of manual focusing, you could try some legacy lenses and get zooms or even longer primes for really little money, like less than 50 euro each sometimes way less and you can find some pretty fast and nice lenses out there that might give some quality results.

    My disclaimer here is that this is theoretical for me as I have only started out and am still waiting for some lenses to arrive (and a cheap Chinese adapter) to try this way.

    I honed-in on m42 mount lenses of which there seem to be tons available quite cheap, especially old Soviet lenses such as Helios and Jupiter which have a reputation for being quite good.

    just a thought... my 2 centimes worth
     
  19. PSH

    PSH Mu-43 Regular

    40
    Jul 6, 2011
    The only problem with that, is that my experience and knowledge are short even with AF lens. So I believe that with MF lens it would be funny to see me trying to achieve something you can look at. :biggrin:
    I mainly use the camera to shoot judo stuff, so it would be very hard to focus fast and right with a MF lens.
     
  20. Jordan

    Jordan Mu-43 Regular

    88
    Jun 9, 2011
    Houston, TX
    It wouldn't be as hard as you think. As long as you're in the same spot you wouldn't have to adjust the focusing too much for each shot.
    Just prefocus on a subject in the middle of the mat or on a person before the match starts, then it would only take a slight turn to get the focus right. A little practice and you can be good at it.