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F1 Photos

Discussion in 'The Watering Hole' started by Bermuda, Apr 4, 2011.

  1. Bermuda

    Bermuda Mu-43 Regular

    85
    Jan 7, 2011
    Bermuda
    Good Afternoon.

    Just a quick question this year i am going to watch the British F1 race in July and would like a little bit of help on what setting to have my E-pl1 set to.

    I have the lens kit plus the 42-150 lens.

    I know this is a hard question to answer but what would u all think is a good starting point.

    Thanks :)
     
  2. Armanius

    Armanius Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 23, 2010
    Houston
    Muttley
    You may want to use manual focus, and use zone focus. The AF of the EPL1 may not be quick enough to keep up with F1 cars. Then use the high speed shutter.

    I am so jealous!!

    Who are you cheering for?
     
  3. Bermuda

    Bermuda Mu-43 Regular

    85
    Jan 7, 2011
    Bermuda
    thanks mate

    i don't mind who wins really. Button would be great though. Also would like to see Lotus on the top spot.

    your profile says ur in TX, The F1 goes to Austin next year :)

    Formula 1 United States | Austin 2012

    I also plan to watch the race there :) Going to take a HUGE road trip. I plan to rent a car and drive from NYC to Austin and back :) Maybe see you around
     
  4. flash

    flash Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Apr 29, 2010
    1 hour from Sydney Australia.
    Gordon
    It depends where you are. If you're in the stands then most likely you'll always be at infinity, so you could find that and then leave the camera on manual focus. You'll need 1/500th head on and up to 1/2000 when panning if you want to freeze motion. Race cars generally look best shot from low down.

    And you may as well go out to a busy highway and practice on road cars. That's whats really going to help you decide what settings to use and how close you'll need to be.

    Gordon
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Pan Korop

    Pan Korop Mu-43 Veteran

    479
    Mar 31, 2011
    Phare Ouest
    If shooting from far, grandstands or public area, former racing motorbikes photographer begs to differ : 1/2000 head on... And 1/125 to 1/250 when panning : there you don't want to freeze the motion, but keep the wheels spinning.
    For that Stabilizer Mode #2 a bonus and the longer the lens the easier the pan : 300 mm equiv. a minimal requirement. Then fast lenses with shallow depth of field end up less useful as the slow shutter speed to blur the background and wheels and make the main subject stand out.
    Now I do 3x agree with practicing-practicing-practicing along a motorway! :)
     
    • Like Like x 2
  6. Bermuda

    Bermuda Mu-43 Regular

    85
    Jan 7, 2011
    Bermuda
    thanks for everybody's help :) i will give it try :)

    Though one VERY LITTLE problem i have. Um speed limit here in bermuda is 35kph ( though we all go 50 kph) so testing it out as such is a bit hard to do :(

    Thanks anyhow. Look out for pics this coming July :)
     
  7. Armanius

    Armanius Mu-43 All-Pro

    Feb 23, 2010
    Houston
    Muttley
    Button? I'm an Alonso fan! And most definitely I'll be attending the Austin 2012 race. If they are done with the track on time.
     
  8. Pan Korop

    Pan Korop Mu-43 Veteran

    479
    Mar 31, 2011
    Phare Ouest
    (Bermuda went metric? Now i figure why I never buy my size of shorts, end up with long arab pants...)

    Practice with those 50 kph at f=60mm setting. When you get that sharp shot with blurred background, you'll find it much easier to follow the pan motion of a 200kph car at f=200mm. Perfect for the curves. Easier inside the bend, but watchout it's not where the racers hit the red/white shakers=vertical blur.

    Don't forget the Mode 2 stab.
    Get a monopod by all means.
    If you can borrow/hire a Pana 100-300, you won't regret it.
    The trick for a good pan, which may take practice, is to keep the steady panning motion why releasing the shutter and after. If you're ok, the car should reappear in the VF when view returns. Here SLR's do keep an edge, btw.

    Gets easier for head-on shots on "slow" bends, chicanes, full brakes : find a low viewpoint, preset distance, 1/2000s, no stabilizer, monopod.

    Also, if ever you can get a pit pass, get the widest lens you can, say 9-18 at f=9, full stabilizer, shoot preset distance (2-3 m) aiming "with your hand" camera secured to your wrist.

    And oh! Last but not least: after filling up a few SD cards, at the end of the day you'll realize you got some great shots... and totally missed the race and will have to catch it up on TV :D
     
  9. Before you worry about camera gear, make sure you get hold of some industrial strength ear protection. I follow F1 fairly closely, although maybe not as much as I once did. I went to the Melbourne Grand Prix once back in 2007 but I have no intention of attending a grand prix again, it was excruciating. Been there, done that. It's TV for me from now on.
     
  10. flash

    flash Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Apr 29, 2010
    1 hour from Sydney Australia.
    Gordon
    Cool. Learnt something new today.

    Gordon
     
  11. Bermuda

    Bermuda Mu-43 Regular

    85
    Jan 7, 2011
    Bermuda
    once agian thanks so much for everybody's help and tips on how to get a good photo. :)

    LuckyP i have heard the same about getting ear protection. Its on my list :)

    For anybody who cares i decided to buy grandstand tickets ( Village A) so let hope i get some good photos :)