EPL5 - a decent small body for under $100?

[Macroramphosis]

Since my wife sold her GM5 (it had a sticky dial which was driving her mad) I have missed the portability of a small camera - something I could stick the P12-32 on and put in a coat pocket for a walk, for example. I've looked long and hard at what's available, and decided what I wanted was something that could still take an auxiliary VF when needed, but can still be bought at a rock-bottom price. My research has led me to the EPL5 as a candidate, and so I wanted to reach out and ask people who may have one what their thoughts on it are.

I know the rear screen is the wrong proportion, and it's only a 604 resolution screen. I know the battery life could be better, too, but is there any other really big issue that should stop me getting an almost unused copy for under $100? I don't do video, and I hear it takes fine images....

Any information would be much appreciated....

 

[0000]

Sensor-wise, it's as good as any other 16MP, but beyond that there's a lot lacking compared to an E-PL7/8... there's a pretty thorough discussion about that here, you can evaluate what matters to you. Biggest thing IMHO: don't expect good IBIS.

 

[Ed Diaz]

+1 about the IBIS. The E-PL5 is still a really good camera, but I’d pay the extra $ for a newer model with 3+ axis IBIS.

 

[WhidbeyLVR]

I have no complaints on image quality. The inferior IBIS is one problem. The back dial is another. I have had problems with that dial not working reliably since the 3rd year I owned it (of 7 years now). Have read of others with the problem as well.

If you're set on a range-finder style, maybe consider the E-P5, if you can find a good deal. It supports the VF-4. The shutter-shock problem went away after the zero-delay firmware fix. It is a heavier piece of kit, but feels great in my hands and balances better with heavier lenses. I haven't had any problems with mine yet (~6 years now). Otherwise, I would consider the E-M10ii for IBIS and viewfinder.

 

[mike3996]

The sensor is beautiful but shutter shock ruins it for me.

Also the camera works somewhat okay with P12-32 but very poorly with P35-100 (very poorly!) I don't know what's the deal. I'd personally look at EPL6 or EPL7 even though it's rare they are sold for $100.

 

[pdk42]

I started my m43 journey with an EPL5. I took lots of pleasing shots with it, but I wouldn't buy one now, unless cost was 100% the most important factor:

- Poor IBIS
- Prone to shutter shock
- Rear dial reliability
- No EVF (this has become a deal breaker for me)

Personally, I'd go for an EM10.2. Fantastic camera that fixes all the above issues and adds a few additional benefits like in built flash and electronic shutter - and can be found at reasonable prices on the used market.

 

[Glawsder]

I started in mu43 with an E-PM1 14/42 40/150 kit and the pm1 14/42 went everywhere with me.
I progressed to a e-M10 and bought a 12-32 thinking that would also go everywhere with me, but after the pm1, it still felt too big.
I convinced myself it was the hump and bought a GX80 but found that it was still too big/heavy, even though it was easier to get in and out of large pockets.

I thought about a PM2 or a PL7/8 but in the end got a used LX100 for a very good price. It fits in most of my pockets and for a walk about camera outshines the GX80 12/32 combo in every respect, size, weight, speed and IQ. Doesn't have the flexibility of an ILC but I have 2 of those already .

 

[BushmanOrig]

Yes, they great little cameras. My wife still uses one every week to prep vlogs or her web images... I am not even allowed to look at it... You could also look at the EM10 MKI and MKII or the EPL7 is a huge step up from the EPL5 and offers great video functions like timelapse and more... One sold over here a week ago for $130... like new

 

[Macroramphosis]

EPL7's seem rarer than hen's teeth over here, as do 8's and 9's. Plus the prices I do see are not what I want to pay. The LX's are also out of reach, alas.

But thanks for the advice, everyone - I think I'll give it a miss and keep saving the pennies for something down the line.

 

[pdk42]

but in the end got a used LX100 for a very good price. It fits in most of my pockets and for a walk about camera outshines the GX80 12/32 combo in every respect, size, weight, speed and IQ.

I tried the LX100 twice (both used, but mint). Both had serious focus issues - one wouldn't focus on anything beyond about 2m and I could only get distant objects sharp by stopping down to f8. The other was better, but I found I needed to take 2-3 shots of every scene to get one that was sharp (and I'm not nit-picking about sharpness, I mean completely blurred). It's a pity because I was otherwise very pleased with it. With a tilting rear screen and a slightly larger viewfinder it would be the absolutely perfect camera (with focusing that works!).

 

[Macroramphosis]

Did you try and get your LX100's looked at by anyone?? I wonder what was causing those problems...

 

[pdk42]

Did you try and get your LX100's looked at by anyone?? I wonder what was causing those problems...

No, I didn't. But some reviewers found similar issues:

https://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2015/01/26/my-panasonic-lx100-thoughts/

The AF of the LX100 seemed speedy enough but in MANY cases it would confirm focus and the result would be an out of focus image. I was using center point, so I knew where the camera should be focusing but it was telling me it nailed it and the results said otherwise. I had enough of these misses (more than any other camera I have used) to make me wonder what was going on with it. It started to frustrate me and made me not want to use it.

https://www.lindsaydobsonphotography.com/personal/panasonic-lx100ii-field-review-first-impressions

One of the complaints about the original LX100 centred around autofocus. When focused at infinity or distant objects there was a tendency for some examples of this camera to entirely miss focus, resulting in blurred photographs. I had a few instances of that. My standard day-to-day focusing mode is to use a very small centre square. I’ll then focus lock and recompose is needed, or I’ll move the focus area as necessary. To overcome blurred images at long distance I found that switching to pinpoint autofocus (the crosshair) completely resolved the problem. However not every photographer was successful with that technique.

Also:

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3855345
https://www.mu-43.com/threads/lx100-af-issues.94848/

 

[HarryS]

All of the prior comments are true, but I loved my EPL5. Same sensor as my EM5-1. IBIS wasn't an issue for me as I had fast lenses, and I normally used it in daylight. Anyway, If you use it with the P12-32, as I sometimes do, you can invoke any combo of the IS schemes.

The advantage of the later cameras for me was wIfi to my phone. I used the GX85 for that, but my refurb EPL9 can do it too. I didn't realize the EPl9 didn't support the EVF's or I wouldn't have bought it.

 

[threeOh]

All my zooms are Panasonic, as are the bodies. If the 12-32 is mounted on the epl-5, is it ibis or ois? I reliably get 3 stops with the 12-32 mounted on my non-ibis GM1. How much more does one need?

 

[HarryS]

From Guy Parsons in Australia,
http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/olyepl1/50-epl5-comments.html#stabilisation

There's a Lens I.S. Priority Option (ON/OFF) in the C Settings menu. With the 12-32, you only get the superior OIS of the lens when this is set ON. Set it OFF, and you get IBIS.

With the 12-35, or other lens with switched IS, it's more complicated and you have to look at his table.

If I implied that one could have both lens IS and IBIS,I was incorrect.

 

[Holoholo55]

From Guy Parsons in Australia,
http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/olyepl1/50-epl5-comments.html#stabilisation

There's a Lens I.S. Priority Option (ON/OFF) in the C Settings menu. With the 12-32, you only get the superior OIS of the lens when this is set ON. Set it OFF, and you get IBIS.

With the 12-35, or other lens with switched IS, it's more complicated and you have to look at his table.

If I implied that one could have both lens IS and IBIS,I was incorrect.

Ditto. In my personal experience, one has to set Lens IS Priority ON with the 12-32. I was having a heck of a time with blurry photos with my EM5 and 12-32 until I figured out that the IBIS and OIS were conflicting. There is no IS switch on the lens, so you can't turn lens IS off. (ditto with the P35-100 f4-5.6) If IBIS isn't turned off, either deliberately or by setting Lens IS Priority, there would be conflict. Later Olympus camera bodies could figure out if the lens IS is active, but not the EM5 and I suspect, neither the PL5. (I had two PL5s)

I gave up on the PL5 for a variety of reasons even though I liked its compact size, mainly because I need an EVF to properly see that focus was accurate, shutter shock, and when I used a VF-4 on it, it was kludgier and bulkier than a camera with an EVF. As a result, I replaced it with an EM10 II and despite the slightly larger size, was much happier.

Ironically, my late friend gave me his PM2 kit, so I have another PEN in my possession after previously getting rid of a PM2 and two PL5s. It must be fate.

Still, for $100, you probably couldn't do much better than a PL5. It does take nice shots under the right conditions.

 

[kbouk]

From Guy Parsons in Australia,
http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/olyepl1/50-epl5-comments.html#stabilisation

There's a Lens I.S. Priority Option (ON/OFF) in the C Settings menu. With the 12-32, you only get the superior OIS of the lens when this is set ON. Set it OFF, and you get IBIS.

With the 12-35, or other lens with switched IS, it's more complicated and you have to look at his table.

If I implied that one could have both lens IS and IBIS,I was incorrect.

Actually when you have Lumix Lens with IS button switch is very simple and fast to change between OIS and IBIS,

if lens switch is ON OIS is enabled , when is OFF Camera’s IBIS is active.

 

[bigboysdad]

Just seen this thread and would echo most of the comments too. It was my entry into m43 with the Pany 20mm F1.7 and the Oly 45mm, F1.8, the sensor/ lens combination rendered great results, it's just that the quality control is appalling. I'd honestly be surpised if any second hand purchase wouldn't already have the dials stuffing up and you should certainly expect, the shutter button to fall off and be lost.

 

[StefanKruse]

Was my first camera and it still works like a charm and I bought i 2nd hand. With the pana 14 or 20mm or oly 45mm its a great pocketable option that I still use regularly. The reason I went for something larger was mainly EVF and controls but as a sidekick the camera is great. Ibis may not be topnotch anymore but you can take great pictures without that

 

[Macroramphosis]

Yes, the 14mm was the lens I would have put on it if I had bought one.....