Hi, I am very happy E-P2 user except......that stupid wheel on the back of the camera that controls the shutter speed. I'm about to pull my hair out over it. I am fully manual shooter, who likes to choose the ISO and the aperture, then shutter speed. I tend to adjust the shutter to the aperture/ISO I've chosen hence my frustration with that little wheel of pain. I'm constant accessing the white balance or the ISO or whatever as I turn it. So, I think I can live with the shutter limitations on the E-PL1 but how does in control the shutter and aperture. I can't tell from pictures I've seen of the camera. Or is there another solution with E-P2 I don't know about it. Quite frankly the manual is not the best, although better than my Pentax manuals. Help!!!! I'm not going to get rid of the E-P2, but would happily get an E-PL1 if it would stop the E-P2 Wheel of Fortune. Thanks in advance for any advice.
You can disable that wheel so that it only changes the setting you've assigned to it, and it won't change the others (WB, ISO, etc). That's what I do because I had the same issue. The other settings are easily changed in the super menu. You could probably set Fn to change ISO. There is a usability challenge in the current design that needs to be improved for the EP3. The EPL1 won't necessarily solve it since you're trading some issues for other issues.
On the E-pl1, you use the 4 way arrow/menu buttons. They are activated by pressing the up button first, then up/down for aperture and left/right for shutter speed (I might have those mixed up don't quote me, but that is how it works!). It is actually quite easy - not as quick as a dial, but you have to be deliberate about the motions so there is less chance of something being inadvertently changed. I Don't mind it at all, seems like most don't, and a handful think its awful, such is the internet, haha.
Thanks to both of you. I'm going to look at the manual about re assigning the buttons...sigh... I just don't do manuals well but surely if I graduated from college I can figure out the manual..... I sure wouldn't bet on it though. I still think I'm going to get an E-PL1 to hedge my bets. Is there anything beyond the shutter speeds and build that make it less of a "camera the the E-P2. Keep in mind all I'm going to set everything manually. Thanks again!!
I find the e-pl1 quite a bit easier to use than m e-p1, that includes manual control sets. The button pressing is a non-issue after you've been using it for a day. It also has a quick access menu (by pressing the button in the middle of the 4 way buttons), which brings up just about everything you need to adjust on the fly (shooting mode, WB, IBIS settings for manual lenses, ISO, etc, etc). All that and a built in flash that does bounce reasonably well (in a small area at least). The only negative that comes to mind is the 1/2000 shutter limitation, not a huge deal. Also, its plastic build, but pretty solid with a nice form factor (which I definitely prefer to the e-p1).
To each their own. I started with an epl1 and was OK with the buttons, but once I'd played with a Canon S90 and an ep2, I was sold on the rings and dials. They just seem much quicker, easier, and more intuitive to me. And I've never had a problem accidentally changing a setting because of the wheel or dial, as others have reported. I didn't hate the buttons on the epl1, but they come in a DISTANT second in my list of preferences. So now I have an ep2, the epl1 has been sold, and I'm a happy shooter. We should talked sooner, perhaps could have worked out a trade. -Ray
I agree on changing the dial setting, but if changing is a must, not that you are also loosing 1 iso stop and remote control options, on top of shutter speed cripple. That being said, I went for the EPL1 for its flash and going form a D70s I thought I was going to cry over the loss of my dials... As much as I miss them, I can certainly manage without a hick without them for 99% of situations. The UI is very well designed and allows for quick toggling of functions; the only exception (that 1%) is when you need to change my many stops in a split second.
Indeed, to each his own. I for one find the wheel on the E-P1/E-P2 badly designed due to the feather touch which can affect shooting under pressure, where one really should not be thinking if the dial was accidentally moved but rather on the moments to capture. Thankfully it can be "disabled" by assigning to some function that won't do any harm. I am a "speed shooter" anyway, so all I need most of the time is AWB + preset ISO and aperture, Aperture Priority, easy Exposure Lock button, that's all, no buttons except to preview settings through the Super Control Panel (and exposure lock button of course). In this sense, I certainly can still live with the feather touch design of the E-P1/E-P2 wheel, and even "disabled", the E-P1/P2 have better controls. When I need to slow down like in macro shooting or landscapes, pressing more buttons are not a problem of course, I am not that impatient. Except ... for the Sony Nex ! I really hated the way most functions have to be set on the screen (no EVF too). Easy to use video though, which is what I bought it for, for the little kids to use. I could have got used to it in the long run, but it really is too "modern" for me, but the little kids like it, probably reminds them of their handheld playstation or something. Body IS makes the E-PL1/E-P2 truly superb available light/darkness cameras (they've displaced my Leicas from their thrones in this category, long held by rangefinders). Now ... in terms of IQ, and IMHO, this is my one and only reason for replacing my E-P2 with an E-PL1 (cost is very close once one adds the VF-2 to an E-PL1 anyway). I use excellent Leica, Zeiss, Canon, etc lenses on my m4/3 camera. I really don't feel good with the E-P1 and E-P2 which I both had affecting the sharpness because of the stronger AAF, when compared to the results from the E-PL1 which is of significant difference to me. It is also evident on good m4/3 glass like the Lumix 20mm and 45mm. Of course, if I didn't know and just theorized rather than lived with the 3 Pens, ignorance would have been bliss. To roughly quote someone - "it's a crime to have an AAF in front of Leica glass". However, I think the phrase "Leica glass" should be changed to "all great glass". Even the GF1 AAF is similar to the E-PL1, has even better controls than E-P2, but no high quality EVF for efficient fast usage of these great lenses. The new GH-2 is an interesting model though, even if it has no IS.
This is my problem too. I have the E-P2 and tried the E-PL1 and now I'm torn. I'm all set to return the E-PL1, but, but... I don't need two Pens. If only the E-P3 was here and now. The IQ of the E-PL1 is indeed better IME. Too bad the earlier Pens made it out the door with the stronger AA filters.
I was thinking of opting for the more manual controls of the EP2 over my EPL1, but i decided to save my cash for maybe a lens or just my wallet, and get better acquainted to understanding the EPL1 and it's quirks and controls. I think I made the right decision. The grass isn't always greener on the other side!
Thank you to everyone. This was very informative. Unfortunately I'm now sure I'm going to get and E-PL1. Sigh.... I am also anxious to find out about the upgraded micro 4/3 Olympus is supposedly working on. Off the subject but has anyone tried that Sigma with the Foveon sensor? I've read that that sensor is really great for b/w.
why the sigh stanley? sigh of relief? I'd just try out both cameras (if you get the opportunity) and pick the one you like. At the end of it all, you have to live with it! so you must be happy! They have a great deal on the E-P2 with EVF on Amazon at the moment! 798 i think! Otherwise grab the E-pl1 and enjoy!
I had a problem with the sensitivity of the wheel on the E-P2 until I stopped trying to spin it all the way around. Now I just roll it up or down on the side closest to the lcd screen, between 7 and 11 o'clock on the dial and no longer have a problem pressing down to hard and activating a setting. I just go up, up, up or down, down, down on that side with my thumb until I get to the speed I want in manual for example.
