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EP-3 Raw/Jpeg shadow detail

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by MexicoMik, Apr 9, 2012.

  1. MexicoMik

    MexicoMik Mu-43 Regular

    195
    Mar 19, 2012
    After about a month of working with the EP3/lenses I have retired my D7000/lenses.

    The only thing I have a bit of an issue with is deciding whether to shoot R or J. I prefer the OLY Jpegs to anything I can do with the Raw pics in post processing EXCEPT on the occasional situation where I want to boost shadow detail. On the Nikon I shot only raw but I like the Oly jpegs much better than I did the Nikon's.

    I don't actually boost shadows very much, preferring to expose the shot the way I want it in the first place (slide shooter for virtually all my film life). But on the few occasions that I do want to boost shadows, the raws are clearly better for that.

    So, as much as I'd prefer to just shoot Jpegs, it appears that the best method for me is Raw+LF Jpeg. I guess I could just select R or J depending on the scene, figuring whether I MIGHT want to boost the shadows but that's entirely too much thinking before each shot!

    What are thoughts re this? Any better way to do it? Or is just a R and J for each shot and delete all the unneeded files in post processing? (I don't like doing ANY post processing if I can avoid it).
     
  2. songs2001

    songs2001 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    693
    Jul 8, 2011
    You can shoot all raw and use Olympus desktop software to convert to jpegs. I believe it's the same as if shooting jpegs in camera.
     
  3. Djarum

    Djarum Super Moderator

    Dec 15, 2009
    Huntsville, AL, USA
    Jason
    I've been shooting R+J for a while now with my E-PL2. I do it for the opposite reason, I typically am trying to recover highlights. For the casual image jpeg is usually fine. For those that need special care or could be better with RAW I just use the RAW.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. MexicoMik

    MexicoMik Mu-43 Regular

    195
    Mar 19, 2012
    "You can shoot all raw and use Olympus desktop software to convert to jpegs. I believe it's the same as if shooting jpegs in camera"

    Is that program on the disc that came with the camera? Sadly, I left all the packaging/disc (didn't even open the envelope the disc was in) in the US when I picked up the camera. I won't be back to that location until November. :(

    Re highlights - my years of slide shooting made me an "expose for the highlights" shooter so recovering highlights is not usually an issue. IMO digital and slides react pretty much the same way as far as exposure - neither one can handle overexposure very well though slides don't blow out quite so ungracefully. :)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. starlabs

    starlabs Mu-43 Top Veteran

    856
    Sep 30, 2010
    Los Angeles
    You can download the Olympus Viewer 2 software from Olympus' web site. All you need is the serial number of your camera.
     
  6. songs2001

    songs2001 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    693
    Jul 8, 2011
  7. MexicoMik

    MexicoMik Mu-43 Regular

    195
    Mar 19, 2012
    Thanks to both of you!:smile:
     
  8. pjohngren

    pjohngren Mu-43 Top Veteran

    560
    Oct 15, 2010
    I have a G3 and only shoot jpegs now. I think the key is very careful adjusting of exposure compensation, watching the histogram while shooting, and bringing the exposure comp up so that the right side of the histogram just touches the right histogram frame. Usually you can then select the shadow area in Photoshop, feather the selection, and use 'Curves' to bring out the shadow detail without causing any problems.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. ssgreenley

    ssgreenley Mu-43 Top Veteran

    509
    May 12, 2011
    I'm finding myself in a similar situation, generally trying to get things right at the time I hit the shutter because I detest post. I also only want to shoot RAW when . Is there any way to make Olympus Viewer 2 and Lightroom play nice together? I love lightroom, but it just can't compete with Olympus colors...
     
  10. Luke

    Luke Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jul 30, 2010
    Milwaukee, WI
    Luke
    I shoot JPEG only 95% of the time. If I have a shot with tricky lighting or think I'll want to do a LOT of post processing, I'll shoot RAW. But I find that even the JPEG can take a fair amount of tweaking before really breaking down.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  11. songs2001

    songs2001 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    693
    Jul 8, 2011
    You can export tiffs and use that in Lightroom. All you lose out is the ability to change WB non destructively.
     
  12. LDraper

    LDraper Mu-43 Regular

    84
    Feb 4, 2011
    Albuquerque, NM
    I've gone to shooting jpeg+RAW pretty much all the time. When the exposure is spot-on the jpeg is normally good enough. The RAW files help when the lighting was tricky or you just mess up. I'm always shooting 'to the right' and that sometimes means the highlights get away from me. I can usually recover those pretty well from the RAW file in Aperture. I also like having both options because there always seems to be something that the jpeg does better than anything I can achieve from the RAW and vice versa. It gives you two options and the jpeg is a good frame of reference for tweaking the RAW.

    The downside is storage space and file management - but I've gotten used to that.
     
  13. MexicoMik

    MexicoMik Mu-43 Regular

    195
    Mar 19, 2012
    "I've gone to shooting jpeg+RAW pretty much all the time. "

    I think I've come to that conclusion as well...Raw + LF.
     
  14. Lawrence A.

    Lawrence A. Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 14, 2012
    New Mexico
    Larry
    I shoot raw & LF jpeg. I process the raw file for things I want to keep or print and almost always find that I gain a bit of detail over the jpeg. But even when I was using my jpegs, I liked having the raw backup; some things are just easier to fix in raw processing than in tweaking the jpeg -- for me at least. There's really no one good way to work or to shoot, and no matter what you decide, somebody will tell you it's all wrong unless you do it their way. Edward Weston did all his 8x10 negatives as contact prints, exposing them on a contact frame he'd made by turning on a lightbulb overhead for the necessary amount of time. Then he did his chemical magic in the trays and made some of the most beautiful prints I've seen. Ansel Adams had a super high tech darkroom with all the bells and whistles. Don't know about you, but I wouldn't want to be without either one of them, for all the differences in how they worked.
     
  15. MQDuclos

    MQDuclos Mu-43 Regular

    Hey MexicoMik,

    I set the little red record button as a custom function to switch between settings on my E-P3. Normally I leave it in JPG mode and when I see a shot that I think I might want RAW, I just hold down the little red button and snap away. Works like a charm for me.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  16. MexicoMik

    MexicoMik Mu-43 Regular

    195
    Mar 19, 2012
    That's a pretty neat idea - but I'm not sure I have the capacity (brain capacity, not camera capacity) to be able to actually do that on a routine basis. ;)

    I'm pretty much a "set everything like I want it and don't mess with it" kind of guy. Otherwise I end up doing something like shooting all day outside at ISO 1600 because I forgot to reset it from "last night in the church" or whatever. :)
     
  17. Hikari

    Hikari Mu-43 All-Pro

    Nov 26, 2010
    You could just shoot RAW. Simply double click on it to open the RAW processor and then just open it without any processing and save anyway you like. I don't know why you would want two copies of the same image.
     
  18. everythingsablur

    everythingsablur Mu-43 Veteran

    412
    Aug 4, 2010
    Toronto, ON
    Easy use case for having a RAW+JPEG. I'm travelling and otherwise not near my computer which has Lightroom or other RAW processing software. I want to upload/share some shots from the road to update family on how we're doing and what they're missing (HA HA!). If I shoot only RAW, I can't send them anything but gigantic RAW files they couldn't do anything with.

    RAW+JPEG gives a user the flexibility of having a proper negative as well as a ready-to-use image that doesn't need additional processing. Does it take up more space? Yes, but memory cards are fairly cheap these days anyway.
     
  19. songs2001

    songs2001 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    693
    Jul 8, 2011
    You can output jpegs from raw files in camera in most modern cameras.

    What's most useful for raw+jpeg, is when using an EyeFi card and want instant transfer of jpegs to a phone or iPad for uploading.
     
  20. pjohngren

    pjohngren Mu-43 Top Veteran

    560
    Oct 15, 2010
    Or you could just shoot jpeg and be careful with exposure so that you don't blow the highlights. I have never found a jpeg that I couldn't post process into just the image I was looking for, unless the image was a bad idea to begin with.

    I agree that having two copies of anything is redundant. Shooting jpegs forces you to get what you need while in the field, where I feel you should be making most of these decisions like accurate exposure etc.