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EM5 Mark II vs EM1 for long expposures

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Sootchucker, Feb 13, 2015.

  1. Sootchucker

    Sootchucker Mu-43 Regular

    117
    Aug 9, 2012
    Quick question please. I know the EM5 II camera isn't officially out yet, however a few have used and tested it. I'm wondering if the poor long exposure performance from the EM1 (with long exposure NR turned off), is better on the EM5 Mark II (like the original EM5 was), or is it just as bad as the EM1 ?

    I do love the EM1 but when I do these long exposures at night, having to have long Exposure NR turned on (which doubles the exposure time) is a right pain (especially in exposures that last 10 minutes or more), so was thinking of the EM5 II for this very purpose ?
     
  2. AL904

    AL904 Mu-43 Regular

    42
    Mar 29, 2012
    Jacksonville Beach, Florida
    Allen Forrest
    I am wondering the same thing. I am considering adding an EM-5 Mk2 to my kit, but I want better low-light operation.

    Has anyone seen who makes the Mk2's sensor: Panasonic, like the EM-1, or Sony like the EM-5? I think that's the key to low light.
     
  3. LovinTheEP2

    LovinTheEP2 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    619
    Feb 15, 2011
    Toronto
    My guess is it's identical to em5v1... Curious to see noise pattern as well.
     
  4. b_rubenstein

    b_rubenstein Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 20, 2012
    Melbourne, FL
    • Like Like x 2
  5. faithblinded

    faithblinded Mu-43 Top Veteran

    929
    Nov 25, 2014
    Cleveland, OH
    Ken
    There's no free lunch with atrophotography. You have to put in the work, regardless of system. If you want quality results, there is no skipping dark frames. The more dark frames you do throughout the process, the cleaner your results can be.
    The only ok workaround requires you creating a set of dark frames at different exposure lengths. You create a seperate set for different outside temperature ranges, at 10-15 degree intervals. It may take half a year to build a complete set, but you don't need clear skies, just consistent outdoor temperatures at night, so you can set up your capped camera and do a set of dark frames. Once you start building your collection of dark frames, you can skip taking them when out shooting, then use the set that fits the temperature range you were shooting in to do your extractions. It's not as good as taking them on the spot, but I've seen results with this method that were darn good. You can start right away, and use the first set you build right away. Just add a new set every time your average night time temps jump 10-15 degrees, or even less, if you want a more accurately scaled range of dark frames to process with.
     
    • Like Like x 1