EM1X in action by mu-43 users

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That is right :) The only drawback was the number of shots I took that day - 3850 :-(
First selection was on the card -> 800 and then down to 50-60 to publish.

This is something I want to change - to shoot less a more effitientely :)
 

Gidget

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No Sharpening or Noise Reduction

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Gidget

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Nice shot!
@Gidget , how do you find the MC-14 and MC-20 compare? Is the MC-20 worth it for the increased reach?


The MC-14 is definitely crisper, but I find at the close distances I use the MC-20, it is sharp, but not as crisp(?) The printed output shows no difference though. I won't be lifting the camera much for the next 3-6 months. I'm getting ready to have a bone removed from my right hand/wrist tomorrow. Moving my mom was it's last hurrah. ?
 

Carbonman

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The MC-14 is definitely crisper, but I find at the close distances I use the MC-20, it is sharp, but not as crisp(?)
Maybe the MC-14 has better contrast? I've been looking at a lot of images shot with the MC-20 and it seems like there's almost a very slight haze or desaturation when looking at shots under full magnification and low ISO.
 

Mack

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Maybe the MC-14 has better contrast? I've been looking at a lot of images shot with the MC-20 and it seems like there's almost a very slight haze or desaturation when looking at shots under full magnification and low ISO.

Wonder if that "crispness loss" is due to distance with the MC-20? :confused-53:

I find using a HSS flash on wildlife helps a lot with the Olympus to boost the contrast in feather detail. Seems to keep the mushiness or blotchiness in the like colors down too.

Problem I have even with the TT685-O in HSS mode along with a "Better Beamer" is the ISO is still usually very high given their location and also the need to keep shutter speed fast with the 300mm+MC14. I need a stronger flash outdoors perhaps, maybe a Godox AD600B Witstro TTL or Adorama branded one (Flashpoint) for service/warranty as I may craze the flashtube in HSS mode. The TT685-O gets really hot in HSS given it reccycle in about 2 seconds or about when it gets an AF lock-on.
 

c12402

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I have done only preliminary test comparing both. Apart from a bit less crisp resolution, MC20 definitively requires more light to work. I have experienced for first time the impossibility of using automatic focus with MC20 installed in 300f4 lens, while changing back to MC14, everything worked fine. With good light, no problem, but getting used to focus automatically with Olympus in almost any circumstance, I learned that the new MC has more limitations.
 

Carbonman

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I have done only preliminary test comparing both. Apart from a bit less crisp resolution, MC20 definitively requires more light to work. I have experienced for first time the impossibility of using automatic focus with MC20 installed in 300f4 lens, while changing back to MC14, everything worked fine.
@c12402 , two questions - what do you mean by 'less crisp'; not as sharp? The second question involves the 300 Pro - have you done the most recent firmware update? My 40-150 is already up to date but I discovered the 300 was not (it is now). If you don't have version 1.5, this is probably why your lens won't focus with the MC-20.
 

SteveAdler

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I'm curious about the HHHR mode and the electronic ND filter. Has anyone tried these in urban environments with lenses like th 7-14 f2.8 or the Samyang 7.5mm (lenses that don't easily take ND filters)? Does the internal ND filter provide shots as good as external ones? Does the HHHR mode work for landscapes and city scenes without a tripod in ways that you normally use them?
 

c12402

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@c12402 , two questions - what do you mean by 'less crisp'; not as sharp? The second question involves the 300 Pro - have you done the most recent firmware update? My 40-150 is already up to date but I discovered the 300 was not (it is now). If you don't have version 1.5, this is probably why your lens won't focus with the MC-20.
Yes, I meant sharp, and all firmware were up to date.
I was experimenting to use this setup for taking photos in the deep forest, with little natural light, all lenses combinations worked well with autofocus but the 2.0 and the 300f4. With the 40-150f2.8, the 2.0 worked well.
 

Carbonman

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Yes, I meant sharp, and all firmware were up to date.
I was experimenting to use this setup for taking photos in the deep forest, with little natural light, all lenses combinations worked well with autofocus but the 2.0 and the 300f4. With the 40-150f2.8, the 2.0 worked well.
@c12402 I guess the next question is - do you think it's better to have a lower ISO and shoot using the MC-14 then cropping for image size, or is the MC-20 worth the cost/less sharp imaging/no cropping needed?
 

c12402

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I have not yet tested this, sorry, I’ll do and let you know.

Anyway, I got recently Topaz AI and this sw makes an incredible job reducing noise with Olympus files, I’ve loose the fear to increase ISO, a couple of clicks makes the miracle.
 

Carbonman

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I have not yet tested this, sorry, I’ll do and let you know.

Anyway, I got recently Topaz AI and this sw makes an incredible job reducing noise with Olympus files, I’ve loose the fear to increase ISO, a couple of clicks makes the miracle.
Thanks, I look forward to your observations/conclusions. I'm also curious about your thoughts on the Topaz products. What other software are you using them with?
 

Gy Rob

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I just tried the topaz denoise AI (free trial ) and it's quite amazing I normally don't go above iso 800 but this test was iso 3200 these are 200% crops em1x 300 f4 pro the shot on the left is with topaz the right shot is out of camera . to me its cleaned up well.
Rob.


denoise 200%[1].jpg
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Ross the fiddler

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I just tried the topaz denoise AI (free trial ) and it's quite amazing I normally don't go above iso 800 but this test was iso 3200 these are 200% crops em1x 300 f4 pro the shot on the left is with topaz the right shot is out of camera . to me its cleaned up well.
Rob.


View attachment 769673 View attachment 769674
That does look pretty good. What editing software do you normally use otherwise?
 

Gy Rob

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I normally use Affinity Photo and select the subject ( bird ) then reduce the background noise and sharpen the bird .
What I can say is Topaz is doing a better job than me and I thought I was quite good .
I only downloaded the trial yesterday so a few more tests to do youtube has a few vids on it worth a look .
My computer is quite fast Topaz does seem to be a bit slow perhaps the paid for is faster .
Rob.
 

panamike

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I normally use Affinity Photo and select the subject ( bird ) then reduce the background noise and sharpen the bird .
What I can say is Topaz is doing a better job than me and I thought I was quite good .
I only downloaded the trial yesterday so a few more tests to do youtube has a few vids on it worth a look .
My computer is quite fast Topaz does seem to be a bit slow perhaps the paid for is faster .
Rob.

I do the same if i need NR but i use despeckle in photoshop, never managed to get a result if i try NR on my subject (birds).
 

Sootchucker

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I went out at lunchtime with the EM1X and my Panny 100-400. Wanted to see how good it was as as pseudo Macro lens. Answer pretty good. Allowed me to keep a good distance from the insects without spooking them. These below processed for the first time in Capture One Pro that I purchased recently, with final NR and Sharpening in PS. All hand-held BTW @ 800mm equivalent focal length.

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Gy Rob

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After more tests I decided to buy it, I'm more than happy with the results just a little extra selective sharpening to finish gets that little bit more out of the complete process .
I think its a game changer for me to get from 800iso my normal top to at leased 3200 .
Rob.
 

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