masayoshi
Mu-43 Top Veteran
@Retief
Following are my settings, but I've been using EM1X pretty much for birding only, so some of these are not relevant to other shooting styles. First, you may want to spend some time testing some settings within each shooting mode (A, S, M) before registering them to C1-C4. That's because once C1-C4 are written with certain shooting mode (A, S, or M), the mode cannot be changed. For example, if C1 is registered from the settings in A mode, you cannot change the C1's mode to S mode while retaining other parameters stored as C1. So, basically, A, S, and M shooting mode is a template for C1-C4.
Now, I list AF settings and menu location, and make some notes based on my experience.
1. AF Mode
Gear>A1>AF Mode
It is up to your shooting style, but I like C-AF+MF because I can get approximate focus by C-AF first, and if I'm in doubt, fine tune focusing by simply rotating focus ring (without using MF clutch available only in Pro lenses). This is pretty much like the way D500 works, but missing in EM1.2 (S-AF+MF was available). Additionally using magnify and focus peaking, I can confirm the focus is good. This is useful for perched birds deep in branches (not flying birds).
2. Back button focusing
Gear>A1>AEL/AFL
In order to use back button focusing, change the mode selections S3/C3/M3, and Half Way Af: Inoperative.
3. Focus Ring orientation
Gear>A4>Focus ring
I make it clockwise orientation to focus more distant targets. You can set up the other way (counterclockwise).
4. Focus peaking while doing MF
Gear>A4>MF Assist
I set up Magnify OFF, and Peaking ON. When I want Magnify, I use front function button which is assigned to start Magnify function (see below).
5. AF area definition
Gear>A2 [custom] Target Mode Settings
This is totally your 'play ground', and you can set up AF area with various size (horizontally and vertically) and you can also skip rows/columns so that AF performance is faster. I haven't tested vertical boxes (like 1x7, 3x11, etc), but for birding, horizontal boxes below seem like working. So, current registration for C1-C4 custom AF area look like these.
C1 7x1, C2 7x3, C3 7x5, C4 7x7
I found C1 and C2 are useful when you pan and follow fast flying birds like ducks/geese flying out of the water. Even I fail to keep the bird in the center, a part of the bird is still within the horizontal boxes, and focuses well. These horizontal box setups are useful also when you see a big bird (like herons or egrets) flying in distance. For large birds or the bird flying above my head circling, I use 5 box-cross or 3x3 box square because I can mostly keep the bird in the center of the frame. I haven't found 7x5 or 7x7 larger AF area useful. I think these large AF areas make the AF performance slower, so I'm going to replace C3 and C4 for something else in the future.
6. Fn lever function
Gear>B1>Fn Lever function
I use Fn lever as Mode 2 to switch AF area selection (I switch between 3x3 and 7x3, depending on the size of the bird, 7x3 for small/fast bird, 3x3 for big bird).
7. Shutter/Burst mode
I use mechanical shutter and Low burst almost all the time. Low burst is required for CAF to properly adjust the focus between exposures. Lots of people actually use silent (e-shutter) mode, but I often pan the camera fast, so I just don't like rolling shutter effects. But rolling shutter of EM1X (EM1.2) is very minimal so using silent mode is totally fine in most cases.
8. Picture mode/size and dual card settings.
Gear>H1>Card slot settings
I use Dual Independent, and save Raw to slot 1, Jpg to slot 2. Video files go to Slot 1.
The quality of Jpg is LF (Large/Fine) so that the camera clears buffer relatively fast. I use the Jpg files in slot 2 only for backup purpose, or quickly take it out and put it in the card reader connected to my smart phone. Of course, you can transfer Jpg files to your phone via WIFI/Bluetooth, but I'm just doing what has been working, and saving battery life a little bit by disabling wireless functions.
To set up picture/slot storage destination, you need to go Camera1>camera picture icon. This is kind of confusing all the time (slot settings are Gear>H1, and file storage destination in Camera1 menu).
By the way, I use SONY G 64GB (UHS-II, R300MBS/W299MBS) for both slots.
9. Metering and ISO setup.
This is really depending on your shooting targets/styles, so I just mention my settings (with 300mm F4 Pro). I make C1 as S priority mode (1/1600 as default), and ISO max is set to 6400. Metering is center weighted. I use C1 when lighting condition is poor.
Then, C2 is Manual mode (SS 1/3200, F6.3 as default), and ISO max is set to 1600. Metering is ESP. I use C2 when lighting is very good. C2 allows additional DOF so that AF inaccuracy is compensated if the target moves faster than expected.
Auto ISO max/default is set up via:
Gear>E1>ISO-Auto set
This is what I register in My Menu, because I always struggle to find where it is.
10. Front function button customization
Upper front function button (Default: One touch white balance) is assigned to Magnify. This is useful when you switch to manual focus.
Lower front function button (Default: Preview) is assigned to change AF to Home mode. I set up Home AF via Gear>A2>Set Home, and make is single box in the center. So, this button is used when I see a bird deep in the branch and want to focus on just on the bird with the small AF area. Usually, Magnify, and MF adjustment would follow to nail the focus.
11. Other preferences (still testing)
CAF Center Priority vs. Center Start: Gear>A1
CAF sensitivity (-2 to +2): Gear>A1
EVF frame rate: Gear>D2
There are many other features I haven't touched or used only several times, e.g. hand held high res, AI focus/tracking, HDR/focus stacking, live ND filter, Procapture, etc and many video features have not been explored. But things listed above will get you started, especially for birding/wildlife photography. We look forward to discussing with your own experience/settings.
Following are my settings, but I've been using EM1X pretty much for birding only, so some of these are not relevant to other shooting styles. First, you may want to spend some time testing some settings within each shooting mode (A, S, M) before registering them to C1-C4. That's because once C1-C4 are written with certain shooting mode (A, S, or M), the mode cannot be changed. For example, if C1 is registered from the settings in A mode, you cannot change the C1's mode to S mode while retaining other parameters stored as C1. So, basically, A, S, and M shooting mode is a template for C1-C4.
Now, I list AF settings and menu location, and make some notes based on my experience.
1. AF Mode
Gear>A1>AF Mode
It is up to your shooting style, but I like C-AF+MF because I can get approximate focus by C-AF first, and if I'm in doubt, fine tune focusing by simply rotating focus ring (without using MF clutch available only in Pro lenses). This is pretty much like the way D500 works, but missing in EM1.2 (S-AF+MF was available). Additionally using magnify and focus peaking, I can confirm the focus is good. This is useful for perched birds deep in branches (not flying birds).
2. Back button focusing
Gear>A1>AEL/AFL
In order to use back button focusing, change the mode selections S3/C3/M3, and Half Way Af: Inoperative.
3. Focus Ring orientation
Gear>A4>Focus ring
I make it clockwise orientation to focus more distant targets. You can set up the other way (counterclockwise).
4. Focus peaking while doing MF
Gear>A4>MF Assist
I set up Magnify OFF, and Peaking ON. When I want Magnify, I use front function button which is assigned to start Magnify function (see below).
5. AF area definition
Gear>A2 [custom] Target Mode Settings
This is totally your 'play ground', and you can set up AF area with various size (horizontally and vertically) and you can also skip rows/columns so that AF performance is faster. I haven't tested vertical boxes (like 1x7, 3x11, etc), but for birding, horizontal boxes below seem like working. So, current registration for C1-C4 custom AF area look like these.
C1 7x1, C2 7x3, C3 7x5, C4 7x7
I found C1 and C2 are useful when you pan and follow fast flying birds like ducks/geese flying out of the water. Even I fail to keep the bird in the center, a part of the bird is still within the horizontal boxes, and focuses well. These horizontal box setups are useful also when you see a big bird (like herons or egrets) flying in distance. For large birds or the bird flying above my head circling, I use 5 box-cross or 3x3 box square because I can mostly keep the bird in the center of the frame. I haven't found 7x5 or 7x7 larger AF area useful. I think these large AF areas make the AF performance slower, so I'm going to replace C3 and C4 for something else in the future.
6. Fn lever function
Gear>B1>Fn Lever function
I use Fn lever as Mode 2 to switch AF area selection (I switch between 3x3 and 7x3, depending on the size of the bird, 7x3 for small/fast bird, 3x3 for big bird).
7. Shutter/Burst mode
I use mechanical shutter and Low burst almost all the time. Low burst is required for CAF to properly adjust the focus between exposures. Lots of people actually use silent (e-shutter) mode, but I often pan the camera fast, so I just don't like rolling shutter effects. But rolling shutter of EM1X (EM1.2) is very minimal so using silent mode is totally fine in most cases.
8. Picture mode/size and dual card settings.
Gear>H1>Card slot settings
I use Dual Independent, and save Raw to slot 1, Jpg to slot 2. Video files go to Slot 1.
The quality of Jpg is LF (Large/Fine) so that the camera clears buffer relatively fast. I use the Jpg files in slot 2 only for backup purpose, or quickly take it out and put it in the card reader connected to my smart phone. Of course, you can transfer Jpg files to your phone via WIFI/Bluetooth, but I'm just doing what has been working, and saving battery life a little bit by disabling wireless functions.
To set up picture/slot storage destination, you need to go Camera1>camera picture icon. This is kind of confusing all the time (slot settings are Gear>H1, and file storage destination in Camera1 menu).
By the way, I use SONY G 64GB (UHS-II, R300MBS/W299MBS) for both slots.
9. Metering and ISO setup.
This is really depending on your shooting targets/styles, so I just mention my settings (with 300mm F4 Pro). I make C1 as S priority mode (1/1600 as default), and ISO max is set to 6400. Metering is center weighted. I use C1 when lighting condition is poor.
Then, C2 is Manual mode (SS 1/3200, F6.3 as default), and ISO max is set to 1600. Metering is ESP. I use C2 when lighting is very good. C2 allows additional DOF so that AF inaccuracy is compensated if the target moves faster than expected.
Auto ISO max/default is set up via:
Gear>E1>ISO-Auto set
This is what I register in My Menu, because I always struggle to find where it is.
10. Front function button customization
Upper front function button (Default: One touch white balance) is assigned to Magnify. This is useful when you switch to manual focus.
Lower front function button (Default: Preview) is assigned to change AF to Home mode. I set up Home AF via Gear>A2>Set Home, and make is single box in the center. So, this button is used when I see a bird deep in the branch and want to focus on just on the bird with the small AF area. Usually, Magnify, and MF adjustment would follow to nail the focus.
11. Other preferences (still testing)
CAF Center Priority vs. Center Start: Gear>A1
CAF sensitivity (-2 to +2): Gear>A1
EVF frame rate: Gear>D2
There are many other features I haven't touched or used only several times, e.g. hand held high res, AI focus/tracking, HDR/focus stacking, live ND filter, Procapture, etc and many video features have not been explored. But things listed above will get you started, especially for birding/wildlife photography. We look forward to discussing with your own experience/settings.
