Em1 mark iii upgrade worth it?

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Hey guys and gals, I’ve been shooting m43 for about three months and I love it! I was diagnosed with fibromyalgia and carrying heavy gear is a no go for me nowadays.

I’m a bird photographer and I’m shooting with an Em1 mark ii and a Olympus 100-400. I’m still learning and growing coming from Nikon but I’d like to hear opinions on whether the move to an Em1 mark iii is worth it? I’m looking for the cleanest files that can be cropped.

Thanks in advance!
 

retiredfromlife

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I doubt there would be much difference in IQ.
The EM1.3 was the new processing engine in camera, hence it can do HHHR, starry night etc.

But for ergonomics, the joystick, dedicated ISO dial and new mode dial all make a better experience. You also get the "My Menu" for a custom menu.
The SCP also has some minor changes, and of course shutter actuations now doubled compared to the EM1.2 that may help if you do a lot of burst shooting.

So if you have the cash it is a nice upgrade, but possibly not if you are only chasing IQ.

Maybe wait to see what the new thing to be announced later this year, as the EM1.2 is still current.
 

ac12

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I generally wait to do a 2 or 3 generation upgrade, unless there is SIGNIFICANT value in that 1 generation upgrade.
  • Example1. From the EM1-mk1 to the mk2, there WAS a significant difference; the EVF performance changed, the e-shutter was more generally usable, better CAF. The mk1 was painfully usable for sports (though perfectly fine for non-sports), the mk2 fixed all the issues I had with the mk1, so that 1-generation upgrade made sense, to me, and I did it.
  • Example2. From the EM1-mk2 to the mk3 however, I do not see a significant difference "for me." So I did not get the mk3, and planned to wait for the mk4 or mk5.
So, YOU have to evaluate the mk3, and determine if there is enough value in the mk3, over the mk2, to spend the money to upgrade to it.

I think the sensor in the mk3 is the same as in the mk2.
So the only change would be in the JPG processing engine.
However if you shoot RAW, the camera's JPG processing engine does not apply.
 

doady

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I wish I had got into m4/3 a few months later, than I would be E-M1 mark III user instead a Mark II user, and not be so envious of HHHR and 1.0 to 1.5 stops extra image stabilization. They seem like underrated improvements, not only for image quality, but also in terms of carrying less gear.

They are nonetheless just iterative improvements. Just one iteration of difference. I don't think upgrade from one iteration to the next is ever worth it. Maybe if you are wildlife photographer, you might want AF joystick. But generally probably better wait at least 2 iterations.
 

Richard_M

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I have both the MK II and MK III. I prefer to use the MK II for birding, and the MK III for focus stacks. I was hoping with the new engine under the hood, the MK III would speed up the focus stacking, I've not noticed any difference.
 

Sniksekk

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I upgraded from em1-1 to em1-3 and think that was a major jump. Not regretting that.

But to me, em1-2 to em1-3 is to small jump to justify the cost.
But it’s your money.
if you got a lot and don’t know what to use it on, upgrade!
 

John King

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Em1 mk1 to mk2 was a significant improvement in focus speed and accuracy. I bought one immediately when I got the opportunity to handle it at a photo show.

Whilst I'd like the joystick, I can't justify the upgrade. HHHR is nice, but the biggest print I've done in the last five years is A3.
Richard, even my E-1 is great for A2 prints.

You do have to get everything precisely right in the camera, but I reckon that's always the case anyway!
 

RAH

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I do think that HHHR is a significant upgrade. I suppose it might not seem usable for bird photography, but perhaps. Some birds just sit there for quite a while without moving. The OP specifically mentioned cropability, so an HHHR 50mp image gives that to you in spades.
 

RAH

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Well, I put my GAS money where my mouth is yesterday and bought an E-M1.3 (should be coming today!). I've been wanting to do this for a while, where my E-M5.3 is used where small size is important (e.g. travel), and the E-M1.3 is used for the everything else. Plus, it's just nice to have 2 bodies for using 2 lenses together (although my GM5 would still fill that role for travel).

Anyway, of course it is totally indefensible, with Covid still making travel kind of iffy (IMHO), plus I just broke my right collarbone on Sunday, so I cannot use a camera much at all for a while (4-8 weeks). I am coming up with ideas for testing the E-M1 right away - tripod, LCD screen, wired remote, etc. Can you say "macro"? ;)

Soooo, yayyyyy! :yahoo:
 

RichardC

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Well, I put my GAS money where my mouth is yesterday and bought an E-M1.3 (should be coming today!). I've been wanting to do this for a while, where my E-M5.3 is used where small size is important (e.g. travel), and the E-M1.3 is used for the everything else. Plus, it's just nice to have 2 bodies for using 2 lenses together (although my GM5 would still fill that role for travel).

Anyway, of course it is totally indefensible, with Covid still making travel kind of iffy (IMHO), plus I just broke my right collarbone on Sunday, so I cannot use a camera much at all for a while (4-8 weeks). I am coming up with ideas for testing the E-M1 right away - tripod, LCD screen, wired remote, etc. Can you say "macro"? ;)

Soooo, yayyyyy! :yahoo:

I can say HAND HELD HIGH RES with my eyes shut.

I'm tempted, but it would be completely un-necessary.

Mind you, Robin Wong's new critique of the 100-400 mentions that the best results possible will be with the EM1.3. We all like to get the best out of our glass right?
 

RAH

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I can say HAND HELD HIGH RES with my eyes shut.

I'm tempted, but it would be completely un-necessary.
Yes, I agree about HHHR. Some negative reviews of the latest E-M1 and E-M1x models say that they are old tech (not upgraded EVFs, 20MP sensor, etc) and that all the other stuff are just gimmics. I agree that other things need upgrading, but I do not see HHHR as being a gimmic.

If you take a look at the thread with REALLY nice moon shots using HHHR on a tripod, where the movement of the moon surprizingly is seen by the HHHR algorithm as hand shake that it can use to do its thing, it gives you an idea of the odd things this might be useful for. In fact, I wonder if a stationary bird's minor movements might also be considered camera shake by a tripod mounted E-M1's HHHR. Maybe I'll find out soon!

As far as un-necessary, well yeah, of course! ;)
 

Mack

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If you are debating on also getting an E-M1.3 and wondering what to do with your older E-M1.2 body, why not convert the old one to shoot IR? Makes a whole new way of seeing things. Conversion is about $350.

Took my converted E-M1.1 out to the desert and it really sees thing differently. I set it to bracket 3 shots by +/-0.7 stops and had a lot of fun with it! I had regular camera with me but IR one was more unique in look.

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RAH

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I received my E-M1.3 this morning - Adorama gave me free overnight 1-day Business UPS - after ordering it yesterday afternoon. Zow!!

I was somewhat worried about the size while unwrapping the package (yes, this is a text-only unboxing report!), thinking, "moment of truth!" Well, gee, I am happy to report that it looks very much like a slightly overgrown E-M5.3, with a somewhat larger grip. Period. Fitted with the MegaGear half case (weighs less than 2 oz), the E-M5.3 is actually a little taller.

I am also a user of a Canon 80D, so I am familiar with beefy cameras, and the E-M1.3 is not that, in spades.

I have not tried it yet, and haven't even mounted a lens, but I am pleasantly surprised by the size. The weight is more than the E-M5.3, of course, but that is something to judge in the future, when I get a lens mounted and my broken right clavicle heals.

@RS86 , I know you posted recently in a thread (I think about the P S5) that you have small hands and talking about the E-M1.2. Well, we could have a reverse-macho measure-off ;) on who has smaller hands (be forewarned that I am 5'3" and weigh 120 lbs). I'd probably win. But the point is, I think you'd be fine with the size of the E-M1.2 or .3.
 
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L0n3Gr3yW0lf

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I have Big Oly (E-M1 Mark III) basically a year now and I used it about 70% for wildlife, 20% for landscapes and architecture and 10% for street and portrait photography. I was upgrading from the Mark I and it was a huge improvement in every department so it was well worth it, even considering that the Mark II was cheaper choice and was almost just as good.
From a Mark II upgrade perspective it may seem like a minor improvement and depending on how and what you shoot it may be so. You will have to look at what you like to shoot and how you shoot to see if there is value for the extra capabilities.
Image quality will be pretty much identical, the only differences are:
*HHHR, if you shoot landscape or architecture it can increase the image quality significantly because you get 1 to 2 stops of extra noise control, the dynamic range for post processing is increased by about 2 stops (only for RAW data). For me this mode has become my default mode for shooting landscapes. (Note that the shadow recovery are excellent only up to ISO 1.600, at 3.200 its only acceptable and at 6.400 its unusable, noise reduction can be applied but it will not salvage the picture of anything then web posting). There are situations where wildlife may comply with HHHR, large and slow subjects, still subjects like frogs and very early morning insects, some spiders, etc. There is quite a variety of situations where the extra cropping room or the extra details can be very beneficial... Think what you need and you will know if you need it.
*Live ND, very useful and you prefer mobility over tripod/filter use. It works very well but be mindful of non-random movement in shorter exposures (ex: light trails from vehicles on slower shutter speeds can show up as faint spots with bright spots instead of natural light streaks.
*Starry AF, I haven't used it in practice. I have tried a few times but out of curiosity but I can't say it did much. Others peeps wihh more experience on this subject could tell you more if it's good or not.
*Improved Face Detection and Eye Tracking, I haven't used it in a more serious or demanding capacity (but I will next year) but from the few moments I have it's quite good. I would believe or expect to work as good as the God-like level of Sony or the quite good level of Canon Rs.
*Joystick, I did not expected to use it a lot and at first I didn't even touch it, but with practice and instinctively I was using more and more. I don't known if I can say it changed my life but it is a very welcoming feature to have.
*Shuffle of button locations for Menu, some may love it and others may hate it, I got used to it quite quickly and after a year I mostly don't get confused by the button layout.
*IPX rating weather resistance... While we don't know how good or less good the previous generation were this is the first time and any of the brands is actually giving a rating for weather resistance. For me the English Weathers makes it non-debatable question, the only other brand I have this kind of trust is Pentax.
*Better IS... More is better... But only if you fit within the shooting style of course... Hashtag TripodsMustDie :p (joking).
*Other benefits are longer mechanical shutter life (though if you are a wildlife shooter you will be using mostly the electronic shutter to get the benefit of 18 FPS and Pro Capture), some UI improvements like My Menu
 

RAH

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Wow, that's some review, Ovidiu! Pretty much says it all as far as the OP's question, I think. Your imression of HHHR is kind of confirming what I've been thinking about the potentials of the camera (without having it till now). That report about using HHHR on the moon just kind of brought the potential home to me. It is here, by the way:
If it works in that scenario, it practically begs you to try it in other cases where it might initially seem foolish. I mean, in that moon scenario, regular tripod Hi-res fails miserably (as you could easily predict - the moon is moving, for goodness sake!), but here is HHHR nailing it. :)
 

L0n3Gr3yW0lf

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Wow, that's some review, Ovidiu! Pretty much says it all as far as the OP's question, I think. Your imression of HHHR is kind of confirming what I've been thinking about the potentials of the camera (without having it till now). That report about using HHHR on the moon just kind of brought the potential home to me. It is here, by the way:
If it works in that scenario, it practically begs you to try it in other cases where it might initially seem foolish. I mean, in that moon scenario, regular tripod Hi-res fails miserably (as you could easily predict - the moon is moving, for goodness sake!), but here is HHHR nailing it. :)
I have tried many times to do HHHR on the moon but there's a limitation based on how much of the moon you have in the frame. HHHR needs data to actually be able to combine those 16 images, it never worked at 280mm with Panasonic Leica 50-200mm f 2.8-4 plus 1.4x TC (with the only exception that if I used some trees or buildings in the foreground then HHHR had enough edges in the data to know where and how to put them together ... but that would limit the usage to the daytime moon only). I have tried a few times with the Olympus 100-400mm f 5-6.3 at the 400mm end and HHHR works great both in the daytime and the nighttime too though there are a few limitations that need to be considered:
*Ambient temperature, this is not for the summer or in the equatorial regions because heat haze coming from Earth will create shimmers in the air between you and the moon and it will seriously degrade the image quality. It works best during the wintertime (Also the heat haze will bend the subject between every frame and that will introduce significant artifacts similar to motion blur).
*Shutter speed priority over ISO, the faster the shutter speed the fewer artifacts you will get into the image both from temperature variations and from motion. While you can take 1/125 of a sec handheld single image just fine I would recommend at least 1/500 of a sec if not more for HHHR and sacrifice ISO up to 3.200 if you can get it.
*Even still don't expect mind-blowing sharpness or level of detail with HHHR, we are talking about a very fast-moving subject and a mind-boggling distance away (the distance between the Moon and the Earth can fit all the planets in the solar system) ... a teleconverter would work better at the expense of HHHR because you trade light AND speed for magnification.

I have used HHHR with deers and foxes to some degree of success, the extra details were there but it needs to be mined with a pickaxe of sharpening to get there :p
W0LF6529-Edit.JPG
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This is a 50 MP (well 40 MP cropped) HHHR of a stag being confused.

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This is the amoung of editing the RAW file requires to bring out the details because by default the images can look quite soft otherwise.
 

RS86

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@RS86 , I know you posted recently in a thread (I think about the P S5) that you have small hands and talking about the E-M1.2. Well, we could have a reverse-macho measure-off ;) on who has smaller hands (be forewarned that I am 5'3" and weigh 120 lbs). I'd probably win. But the point is, I think you'd be fine with the size of the E-M1.2 or .3.
Congrats on your new camera!

I'm 5'8 and half.

I'm not sure what is the best way to measure, but if I straighten my hand and measure from the base on my thumb/start of my wrist, the lenght to the end of my index finger is 16,5 cm.

My index finger is 7 cm long.
 
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