EM1 lcd/evf not displaying true exposure.

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by syilim, Jan 22, 2014.

  1. syilim

    syilim Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 31, 2011
    Hey guys.

    Right now, when I'm on manual mode and I have the settings such that the exposure meter says the exposure is perfect (at 0). If i then go to increase the shutter speed to reduce the exposure, the LCD will show the scene getting darker and darker until the exposure meter hits -3.0, at which point the lcd doesn't get any darker even when the true exposure should be pitch black. Likewise for overexposure. The lcd will only brighting the scene until exposure meter reads +3.0, and then it doesn't get any brighter even when the true exposure is pretty much completely blown out. Is this the norm or is there a way to set the camera so that the lcd/evf reflects the true exposure?

    I came across this when i was trying to dial in exposure settings in manual mode to completely kill the ambient light in order to test something with flash. It's not a huge problem, but just wondering if theres a fix for it. thanks.
  2. humzai

    humzai Mu-43 Veteran

    Apr 17, 2012
  3. gr8Shot

    gr8Shot Mu-43 Regular

    Nov 13, 2013
    I actually prefer live view boost. I can compose in any light, confirm focus and ensure the elements in the frame are right. I confirm exposure after the picture is taken in the EVF (no chimping).
    • Like Like x 1
  4. syilim

    syilim Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 31, 2011
    my live view boost setting is already at OFF, but still displaying what I described above.
  5. gs3xr_fun

    gs3xr_fun Mu-43 Regular

    Oct 30, 2013
    I haven't notice any difference also if I have the view boost on or off so it makes me wonder if it is a bug. As mentioned above, under or overexposing 3 stops will just get the blinking 3 and it won't get any brighter or darker.
    • Like Like x 1
  6. photo_owl

    photo_owl Mu-43 Regular

    Nov 8, 2013
    it's normal (and unrelated to live view boost)

    I rather like it set this way, and it makes sense to me to be able to get some idea of my subject framing even when operating outside these exposure levels.

    for what you are looking at you can just take a couple of test shots and review, even bracket and review, to establish the appropriate settings - I would have thought you would have to take a base refence shot anyway (which becomes your test!). Alternatively you can just use simple calculations based on an initial histogram to establish the settings required to send any scene all the way off the right, or left.

    IMO a slightly better implementation would retain the VF/screen as is but permit the histogram to fully reflect the actual settings ie if you want full black you just dial it down until everything has exited to the left on the histogram. Having said that it doesn't take much to calculate the necessary setting from the histogram at - or + 3 position.
    • Like Like x 1
  7. syilim

    syilim Mu-43 Regular

    Jan 31, 2011
    Yup. That's exactly what I've done. Just do a few test shots and review until i get what I'm after. Like i said, not really a big problem, but was just wondering if there was some settings that I missed out. But it's good to know it's working as intended.

    Thanks all for help!