E-PL1 IBIS problem FIXED!! finally!!

[coaguloso]

Hi, i recently fixed the blinking IBIS indicator in my camera,

i have the E-pl1, i live in chile and we don´t have repair service, so since the camera is really old, i decided to fix it myself.

My camera apparently was dropped while on, so the battery moved and the camera went unpowered, the thing is that when i turned it on again the IBIS was nos functioning and the camera was making a loud noise when initiating.

I think that what happen was something like this.

The IBIS has 2 axis, vertical and horizontal, and these movements are made by stepping motors, everytime the camera boots it needs the sensor to be positioned in a determined position, that is why we hear sounds when we turn it on and off, when i dropped it, the IBIS was cut down from power so it was unable to return to the "rest position" (where it should be when the camera is off) so when it was turned on the camera would make these lousy noises and show a blinking red IBIS symbol on the screen.

So i opened the camera, and removed the sensor assembly which have the IBIS attached, and i looked to position of the sensor.


and moved the sensor to the position indicated in the file.

Then the camera booted with no problem and i had fixed the problem.

Ask me for photos if you need to see more close the process (i didn´t take any)

I guess that all cameras are similar, so maybe this work around will work with more cameras.

Coaguloso

 

[Yohan Pamudji]

Brave man, and good work!

 

[Ulfric M Douglas]

What did you use to move the sensor?

 

[coaguloso]

well i used a screwdriver to make the stepping motors spin, so it would move the sensor assembly to the desired position

 

[Ulfric M Douglas]

How did you make the motors spin?

 

[coaguloso]

by force, i just rotated the cranes with the screwdriver.
The metal case for the cranes has a little aperture that shows the crane from the motors, so it is easy to move them.
sorry i didn´t take pictures of my camera. But in the picture with the red circle if you see that zone you can see that it has some apertures that able you to mode the cranes with a wire o something pointy.

Cheers

 

[Zhono]

I'm not sure I am doing it right. Do I need to disassemble anything on the sensor assembly? Or just pull out the whole assembly and turn the gears? Following the instructions, I pulled out the whole thing, and turned the gears until the slider on the top one was pushed all the way to the right, and the slider on the bottom one was pushed all the way down. See my picture below. But the instructions I used for taking apart the camera, the images show those sliders as being in the center. Other pictures I have found also show the same. Have I misunderstood, and I was supposed to get the sliders into the center? Or are there steps I seem to have missed somehow? All I know is that what I did so far(in the pic), did not fix the problem.

And just to clarify what my issue is, in case my problem is actually different than what this fix is for: the icon "IS1" or 2-3 is always flashing red, no matter what I set it to, even off. If I press the shutter button, the screen goes black and stays off. I have to press the power button to shut down, and then turn it on again. I also do not hear any loud noises when I turn the camera on. Just a short quiet sound, that I assume is the dust cleaning system. While the camera was open, I also turned the gear for the shutter. It popped down into place just fine, and then I turned it some more and the shutter went back up fine as well. I had thought maybe there was a shutter issue, but it seems okay.

So I cannot take pictures at all. I can shoot video just fine, but no photos. I don't even want to use the IBIS anyway, but it seems I have to fix it, even if I don't want to use it. I am going to take the thing apart yet again and put the sliders in the center and see if it works. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Has this fix worked for anyone else that has tried it?

*EDIT* Setting the sliders in the center did absolutely nothing. I also just discovered something else. If I set the dial to movie mode but don't record, I can press the shutter button, and it will take a picture(saved to sd card, so I know it's there), but I never hear the shutter. If I then press the shutter button again, half way or fully, the screen shuts off just like before and I have to power off again. However, if I start recording, then try to take a picture, the camera freezes with the screen on, and the only the battery icon, and the only way to shut it off is to remove the battery.

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[coaguloso]

Hello, sorry to hear about your problem, it seems that the solution i presented is different from yours,
i once installed the kit lens and the camera started to behave akward, so i cleaned the contacts from the lens and the camera started working again.

maybe you can try that, and about the ibis you can try all combinations of the positions, up down, left and right, hope it helps.

coaguloso

 

[Zhono]

Hi coaguloso,

Thanks for the response. Right now I the only lenses I have are older manual focus ones with an adapter, so the contacts aren't even being used. I have the problem even if I don't attach a lens. The original owner had the problem with his kit lens, as well as a few more expensive m43 lenses. That's why he sold. I bought it because it was all I could afford and I thought it was an easy fix(I saw a post about a much different fix on another forum.)

Since it seems like the IBIS motors are not moving at all, and the shutter isn't moving at all, you're right, I must have a different problem. I checked the hidden menu, and I have damage codes 8903 and 8222. Another post on this forum says that an Olympus service rep told him those codes are the same, and mean it's either a motherboard or firmware error. I checked my firmware and it is outdated, but I don't have the stupid proprietary usb cable to update. I ordered one, but who knows when that will arrive. Hopefully a firmware update will help.

Either way, your guide was helpful, at least I know how to adjust the IBIS if I need to. I might have to do it yet again, if the firmware update helps. lol Thanks for the help.

 

[coaguloso]

You are welcome, i glad that more people were able to find this article helpful.

Good luck with the firmware.

coaguloso

 

[Zhono]

Just want to update: I finally got the USB cable and updated the firmware. The IBIS immediately started working, but when I took a picture, the camera froze with the screen on. I simply pulled the battery, put it back and turned it on. I think the shutter was stuck because I messed with it when the camera was open. The first shot that froze the camera, also cleared up the stuck shutter. It now works 100%. I also did a hidden menu full factory reset(same as removing the battery for a few days). It wasn't really needed, I just wanted it to start from factory defaults.

I did not have to open the camera again. The sliders were in the center before I updated the firmware, and the camera functions perfectly now. So I assume having them in the center is fine. If I have any issues with the IBIS and have to open it again, I'll post back here and let you guys know.

So basically, I got a perfectly good E-PL1 for $40 usd. Sweet. Again, thanks to coaguloso for the helpful info.

 

[MichailK]

Thread Ressurection!

Does anybody know if all these are applicable to the E-PL5 as well?

I am very dissapointed: Out of the blue,my E-PL5 is constantly blinking the IBIS symbol in orange on the upper right corner of the viewfinder when shooting and the stabilization system is inoperative. No obvious reason, never abused it, almost babied it since new back in 2014 (cautious thin wallet guy).

Very disappointed, 3rd semi-failure for an almost babied camera, 2 times covered under warranty, now expired.
I wonder if the reliability grass is greener over other fences, in Fujiland in particular. A few days ago I tried getting a used Pen-F as this E-M5iii is no where visible but now I am seriously looking into the X-system - it may take much time for my thin wallet to expand into Fujiland but if the reliability record is better there I might as well take the plunge.

 

[djtaylor7]

The E-PL5 has had several firmware updates since 2014 so if you haven't been keeping it up to date worth giving it the latest, in case there is a bug fix in there.
Do you have a second newer battery to try, in case your battery is dying?

 

[fader]

Thread Ressurection!

Does anybody know if all these are applicable to the E-PL5 as well?

I am very dissapointed: Out of the blue,my E-PL5 is constantly blinking the IBIS symbol in orange on the upper right corner of the viewfinder when shooting and the stabilization system is inoperative. No obvious reason, never abused it, almost babied it since new back in 2014 (cautious thin wallet guy).

Very disappointed, 3rd semi-failure for an almost babied camera, 2 times covered under warranty, now expired.
I wonder if the reliability grass is greener over other fences, in Fujiland in particular. A few days ago I tried getting a used Pen-F as this E-M5iii is no where visible but now I am seriously looking into the X-system - it may take much time for my thin wallet to expand into Fujiland but if the reliability record is better there I might as well take the plunge.

Thin wallet? Find a used EM-1 Mk or EM5 Mk I and invest in lenses.

The reliability issues sounds really frustrating. I have around 20,000 shutter count on my EPL7 and have abused it in heavy fog, light rain, and heavy shooting for 3 years. Knock on wood but no problems yet. You could also look for a gently used EP5 if you want to stick with a rangefinder style. I would rather have it over the Pen F, personally.

Also, the VF-4 viewfinders are down to around a 100 euros if that's important to you, and those are just as big and bright as you'll find in the most expensive bodies in m43.

fwiw

 

[MichailK]

Thanks for your time & suggestions!

(By the way: VF-4 almost always on camera, feels nice with some Ai-S lenses. EP-5 was out of reach back then but I read usual dials troubles and it is now well out of warranty coverage & they change the whole top plate/back not just the broken dial/button as I have found out twice on my E-PL5. This means that any repair may be too much for an already old model. E-M1 too big & dslr-esque for my tastes (E-M5 just cuts it for me due to smaller size).

Now, about my IBIS problem:
Firmware updated long ago,
battery better than just good,
shutter count 21289,
D page fault codes: three 823C and two 8265

During the booting power up IBIS self check, it looks like the horizontal axis motor functions but not the vertical movement motor, hence a failed self check and no ibis orange flashes.

I think I remember the camera shutting down mid shooting a long exposure some days ago.
Could the mechanism stall in a dead point like reported in this old thread?
In the past I had unstuck a DAT and a miniDV camera transports after they failed to return to their "normal”position for the firmware to find them during boot power up.

Opinions or advices?

 

[Olavi]

Just wanted to report how I fixed my E-PL1 IBIS issue. Symptoms were the usual - blinking orange IS1 regardless of what IS mode was selected, even when selected off. At startup E-PL1 checks working condition of IBIS by moving the sensor in both horizontal and vertical directions. This can be observed with lens removed and turning the power on. In my case it only moved in horizontal direction.

I opened it up and the tried to turn the both gears with small screwdriver. Horizontal moved OK as expected. It was by default at centre.
Vertical gear had a problem. There is a small plastic gear that sits directly on stepper motor shaft that turns the bigger plastic gear that in turn drives the worm gear. In my case the bigger gear turned OK, but the smaller gear was loose on the shaft. Because it was loose the motor naturally could not turn it. So I removed the small gear and re-attached it to the shaft with some superglue. Locktite would of been probably better, but I didn't have it at hand.

After letting it dry checked that moving the bigger gear turned also the shaft. Reassembled everything at and IBIS managed to move the sensor in both directions at startup. Also the orange IS1 flasing disappeared.

Hope it helps someone.

 

[Apollo T.]

WELCOME

 

[MichailK]

now that I got an E-M10ii I may dive into repairing the E-PL5 (was quoted 130 euros by Olympus, plus shipping it will climb up to 150 euros) but my main concern is reassembly of the mount: Any minuscule alignment issues would degrade IQ considerably. I wonder if Olympus goes through some realignment process on reassembly that requires special tools and knowledge.

So, @Olavi and @coaguloso, did you notice anything alignment/adjustment related when putting the camera back into one piece? IQ same as before?

 

[HarryS]

You guys are my Olympus heroes!

I've been sitting on a new LCD screen for my broken GM1 for year now. Time to get moving on it.

 

[Olavi]

now that I got an E-M10ii I may dive into repairing the E-PL5 (was quoted 130 euros by Olympus, plus shipping it will climb up to 150 euros) but my main concern is reassembly of the mount: Any minuscule alignment issues would degrade IQ considerably. I wonder if Olympus goes through some realignment process on reassembly that requires special tools and knowledge.

So, @Olavi and @coaguloso, did you notice anything alignment/adjustment related when putting the camera back into one piece? IQ same as before?

I don't think there is any possibility for alignment after the sensor module (which contains the IBIS assembly) is put into the case. It just screws to the front of the case (plastic) with ordinary screws with washers underneath. So unless you lose some washers you are safe.

Below is a picture of printed test chart from after the repair. I personally can not see a difference between corners. It is printed with a regular home laser printer on A4 with the larger circle is about 18cm in diameter, camera was about a meter away on a tripod. Shot with 12s delay. Lens was Helios 44M-4 lens at f/16. IBIS was set to IS1.

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