E-PL1 and HDR

keehotee

Mu-43 Rookie
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
16
Location
Bristol, UK
Complete newby - had my E-PL1 for a whole 24 hours, and slowly working my way through the book and menus,but thought I'd try a short-cut and ask here first....

I'm used to using a Canon Powershot and CHDK....and I like HDR. So my question is..

Can I set up exposure bracketing with timer on my E-PL1?
 

Brian Mosley

Administrator Emeritus
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
2,998
Hi keehotee, and welcome to the forum!

You enable bracketing by pressing MENU :

camera2->BRACKETING->AE BKT->3F 1.0EV

Pretty basic really.

Cheers

Brian
 

keehotee

Mu-43 Rookie
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
16
Location
Bristol, UK
Hi keehotee, and welcome to the forum!

You enable bracketing by pressing MENU :

camera2->BRACKETING->AE BKT->3F 1.0EV

Pretty basic really.

Cheers

Brian
Thanks - that works fine hand-held on burst....but how would I take 3 bracketed shots using a tripod and delayed shutter release?
 

Brian Mosley

Administrator Emeritus
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
2,998
I guess you'd need a remote shutter release... I also saw something about a nintendo ds hack being used as a remote camera controller. Using iPhone at the moment, so you'll need to google for a link.

Cheers

Brian
 

olyfan

New to Mu-43
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
1
In this case, bad news ...
The E-PL1 does not have a remote trigger option as Olympus did cut this functionality. Just check the specs and you will see there is no remote option!
I sit here with the camera having the same problem, even the USB port is still the same as on other E type cameras, the release cable does not work with the E-PL1.
:rofl::43::rofl:
 

Otto

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
87
Location
Texas, USA
I've been playing around a little with the epl-1, and HDR's. I've attached one I did today while testing the epl-1 against the e330.

This was processed in Photomatix Pro 3 from 7 (-3,-2,-1,0,+1,+2,+3) jpegs out of the camera. The EC had to be changed by hand for each shot, and each shot was taken by pressing the shutter release with the self-timer at 12 seconds.

Nothing great, just a test shot, and nothing scientific about it.

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


Here is the same basic shot with the e330:

Subscribe to see EXIF info for this image (if available)


It doesn't seem like I'm getting the detail from the epl-1 with it's kit lens, that I am from the e330 with the 14-42 kit lens. I'm wondering if it might be due to having to touch the epl-1 more. I can fire the shutter on the e330 with the IR remote, but still have to adjust the exposure compensation by hand.

Hope this is helpful,
Otto...
 

FaradayCage

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
62
This is a bit disappointing, and I thought after scouring the manual before I bought that a single shutter press would trigger a series of 3 autobracketed exposures. No such luck! I can do this with a tiny ZS3 Panasonic P&S, so it seems a little sad. You can set the camera to sequential shot with autobracketing, and a single press, held down, will cause it to shoot three exposures autobracketed. I'm picturing a homemade jig of some kind, where you screw down something on a bracket wrapped around the camera, which presses the shutter release. On the other hand, I think holding down the button with just a finger won't work too well, looking at a few tests I've made after reading your post. I had better luck setting the shutter release to 2 sec self-timer, and manually adjusting EV with each shot. It sure is tricky.

A few more oddities. The little ZS3 can auto rotate a shot if you hold it vertically, but the E-PL1 won't AFAIK. Also, the ZS3 panorama feature assists you with little double exposures on either side of the frame, but you only get boxes on the E-PL1. Of course, the image quality spanks the pants off of P&S cameras, as I can already see after only two days. It will shoot infrared fine with an 89B filter, not as good as a dedicated camera but it definitely works. And I'm really liking the pop art filter.
 

DavidB

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
58
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Indeed it is disappointing. Even the G1 has its flaws in this regard.

On my EOS bodies if I activate both the 2s self-timer and AEB, the camera will take all the bracketed shots on a single button-press. On fact on those cameras that use the RC-1 IR remote I don't even have to wait the 2s!

On the G1 you have to either press the shutter button N times ('N' being 3, 5, or 7 depending on the bracketing you've set) or hold the shutter down (the camera will stop at the end of the bracketed set and wait for you to release the shutter). I can blend this with the use of an intervalometer remote cable (cheep cheep from eBay) to even do sequences of bracketed shots (the time to hold the shutter down for is a simple calculation based on the "centre" shutter speed).

I had been thinking recently of replacing my G1 with a GF1 (+EVF) because it also has video, but decided to hold off mainly because of the cost and the poorer EVF. But then last week I was holding a GF1 in my hand and noticed that although it has a remote socket, using it in the field virtually guarantees that the door covering the remote/HDMI/USB ports will be broken off sooner rather than later.
The poor E-PL1 doesn't even have a remote option. So don't even try to think about timelapse.

All in all the G1 has its limitations, but for my uses every day I'm more and more happy that I chose it.

I was amazed to notice in the specs recently that the E-PL1 doesn't have an orientation sensor. The last camera I had that didn't have one of these was a 3Mp DSLR I bought in 2000! Luckily tools such as Lightroom make it easy to batch-rotate lots of photos though.
 

FaradayCage

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
62
Yes, a rotation sensor seems a silly omission. Of course it's not a very big flaw, but that lack of single-press autobracket on a self-timer is worse. It cannot be a huge deal to incorporate this in software. The same goes for the lack of a single-press bulb timer. Why even have a B setting when you cannot attach a cable release? Does Olympus really expect someone to literally hold down a button for five minutes?

An idiosyncratic but very interesting camera. The main reason I got one was to breathe new life into my old Contax G lenses, and I know of no other way to do this.
 

arpoador

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
Messages
173
Location
san francisco ca usa & rio de janeiro br
intervalometer remote cable

David B wrote:

...snip...
I can blend this with the use of an intervalometer remote cable (cheep cheep from eBay) ...
...snip...
Could you recommend a particular brand or vendor? I've seen several out there, and was interested in getting one for my E-P2. (They generally have a series that covers different camera standards.)
 

DavidB

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
58
Location
Melbourne, Australia
The one that I got is from JJC: the Olympus-connector version can be found here for example.
It runs off 2x AAAs. There's a power switch on the side, but I leave mine on (locked via the lock button) so it doesn't forget the settings. They should have put some non-volatile storage inside this thing!

Actually my Canon TC80-N3 doesn't have a power switch: it remains on all the time and has been running for years on the same set of button cells...
 

f6cvalkyrie

Mu-43 All-Pro
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
Messages
1,166
Location
Brussels, Belgium
The one that I got is from JJC
I have the same unit, but with a G1 connector. Unfortunately, I have never been able to make it work RELIABLY. Sometimes it does work, most of the time, especially when critically needed, it doesn't.

So, be carefull with this product !

Have fun,
Rafael
 

arpoador

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
Messages
173
Location
san francisco ca usa & rio de janeiro br
intervalometer remote cable

Thanks, folks. I just ordered one.
If I can get it working with my E-P2, I can finally retire my (now antique) S3is 6Mp superzoom, which is the only method I have for making exposure sequences (like sunsets ... I love to shoot sunsets).
 

DavidB

Mu-43 Regular
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
58
Location
Melbourne, Australia
I have the same unit, but with a G1 connector. Unfortunately, I have never been able to make it work RELIABLY. Sometimes it does work, most of the time, especially when critically needed, it doesn't.

So, be carefull with this product !
So far the only problem I've had with it (on the G1) is failing to make sure the plug is all the way in. :rolleyes:
 

keehotee

Mu-43 Rookie
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
16
Location
Bristol, UK
This is a bit disappointing, and I thought after scouring the manual before I bought that a single shutter press would trigger a series of 3 autobracketed exposures. No such luck! I can do this with a tiny ZS3 Panasonic P&S, so it seems a little sad. You can set the camera to sequential shot with autobracketing, and a single press, held down, will cause it to shoot three exposures autobracketed. I'm picturing a homemade jig of some kind, where you screw down something on a bracket wrapped around the camera, which presses the shutter release. On the other hand, I think holding down the button with just a finger won't work too well, looking at a few tests I've made after reading your post. I had better luck setting the shutter release to 2 sec self-timer, and manually adjusting EV with each shot. It sure is tricky.

A few more oddities. The little ZS3 can auto rotate a shot if you hold it vertically, but the E-PL1 won't AFAIK. Also, the ZS3 panorama feature assists you with little double exposures on either side of the frame, but you only get boxes on the E-PL1. Of course, the image quality spanks the pants off of P&S cameras, as I can already see after only two days. It will shoot infrared fine with an 89B filter, not as good as a dedicated camera but it definitely works. And I'm really liking the pop art filter.
Not sure I understand you- it is possible to do a bracketed burst with the E-PL1 - just set to bracket and burst. What isn't possible is to have a delay first if you're using a tripod. You have to risk misalignment when you press (and hold) the shutter release.
 

dimwit

New to Mu-43
Joined
Nov 11, 2011
Messages
2
have made up a remote shutter release using a bracket that slides into viewfinder holder(?) the other end uses a socket robbed from another old camera body.works perfectly with cable and lock.-on the same problem can i use more than +- 1 stop?I did think of offering up neut filter and shooting another 3-any ideas please
 
Links on this page may be to our affiliates. Sales through affiliate links may benefit this site.
Mu-43 is a fan site and not associated with Olympus, Panasonic, or other manufacturers mentioned on this site.
Forum post reactions by Twemoji: https://github.com/twitter/twemoji
Copyright © 2009-2019 Amin Forums, LLC
Top Bottom