Hello everyone, as you may know, all Olympus DSLRs and now the E-P1/2/L1 offer auto ISO in Manual exposure mode... this is great for selecting your desired Aperture and Shutter speed - and allowing the camera to choose the ISO to give you an image within auto exposure. I used this feature when taking the first shot in my PAD project : E-P2 + 20mm f1.7 1/80s f/1.7 at 20.0mm iso1600 Unfortunately, you can't set EV compensation in Manual exposure mode... and you can't set a minimum ISO limit for Auto ISO either (just default and Max) I have discovered a nice workaround though - if you're working with a legacy lens. Simply set the camera to Auto ISO, Shutter priority and you can then apply EV compensation... setting Aperture as you would, on the lens itself. In effect, I think this is the most responsive mode of exposure control... you can select the Aperture (via the lens control), Shutter speed and EV compensation in the camera... and allow the camera to determine the ISO automatically to give you the desired exposure. Hope this helps! Cheers Brian
One point I didn't mention... in Manual exposure mode with Auto ISO (as the image above was taken) - the Max ISO limit is active, which I had set to ISO 1600 so the camera ramped up to ISO 1600 but no further. This resulted in an image which, though underexposed by auto-exposure measure was actually what I wanted for the night scene. Cheers Brian
I've personally found the A priority mode pretty good with Auto ISO. I use the EV control so that the camera will choose to either change shutter speed or ISO depending on what it thinks is best. But I'm not using legacy glass, either. One of the complaints it seems some users have is that they can't set a max shutter speed in A priority or auto mode. The thing is, if the user has the ability to set max shutter AND max ISO to whatever the user thinks is acceptable, what happens when the shot is under exposed because the camera has hit a wall with BOTH values?
Yes, Aperture priority mode is fine with m4/3rds lenses - but I usually have ISO fixed in this mode. I would think a minimum shutter speed would be more useful (to freeze the subject / avoid camera blur)... but in answer to your question - the image would be under exposed... but as with the example above - that's pretty much what you want and expect, having been given the control. Cheers Brian
I've been using auto iso in A mode with the 20mm etc. I have the EV set to -1/3. It's been working great so far. I dare not put my M glass on as I don't want to get that started. Good tip Brian, thanks.
Don, I've just been out with the 17mm f2.8 fitted... Auto ISO in Manual exposure mode just seems ideal - rather than worrying about EV compensation, I just switched to centre weighted metering. Cheers Brian
Brian, I always set my digicams to -1/3. I use averaging metering. It helps keep even exposure and the I can push/pull process in LR if need be. Auto ISO works great. I learned it from one of my workshop members. "By teaching, so will you be taught".
Hi Don, I don't find it necessary to set EV to -0.3 unless shooting a high contrast scene - could be shooting raw with natural colour/ -2 contrast/ -2 sharpening/ -2 saturation/ Natural gradation... at ISO 200 for base. Cheers Brian
You guys in the Colonies do things different than here in the civilized world. Do I have that backwards, oh my.
Thats what I meant. To me, when someone says minimum shutter speed, its counter-intuitive, because as we slow the shutter speed, we increase the time in exposure(which is why I said maximum, lol). At any rate, I find Auto ISO excelent in A mode, and this is one reason I picked the EP1 over the GF1. I know that many LX3 users don't like the fact that they can't set the minimum shutter speed in A priority with the EP1. For any given scene with a fixed apeture: Max ISO hit - Minimum shutter speed hit -> possible under exposure Max ISO hit - Increase Minimum Shutter - > possible blurrines Increase ISO - Minimum shutter speed hit -> possible too much noise So to my point, having the ability to set a minimum shutter might be nice, but it does have its consequences.
With my small P&S, I tend to shoot -2/3ev. With the EP1, I shoot -1/3 EV in A mode with AUTO ISO(sometimes I fix the ISO depending on situation). I keep the metering in the first mode(ESP or DSP..something like that). I keep the gradation on normal.
DJ, That's about as good as it gets with the Pen 1. We think alike....sure hope your here in the colony.
Hey all, this may be old news but here's my little set up for exposure. I have my ael/afl button set to s/af/mf, and the shutter button is only used for exposure set and taking the picture, it will not focus. That way you can pre-set a spot to focus and then just shoot with the shutter button. Make sense? Thanks all.
