E-M5 mk III released at US$1199

RAH

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It needs to compete with the PL 100-400. I've got a very sharp copy of it, but I would not praise its build quality. Just look at the tripod foot that is attached with small screws compared with the normal mounting ring used by Olympus and most other manufacturers. The zoom mechanism is stiff and there have been various other complaints recorded.
Interesting. I know about the complaints about the zoom being stiff, and it is a big concern. So, I guess you're saying that it is NOT the build quality of the PL 12-60 then. Hmmm. I thought it probably was. I agree that Oly knows who they have to compete with, so that might get them to build something as good as we hope. Hope, hope, hope!
 
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gary0319

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Interesting. I know about the complaints about the zoom being stiff, and it is a big concern. So, I guess you're saying that it is NOT the build quality of the PL 12-60 then. Hmmm. I thought it probably was. I agree that Oly knows who they have to compete with, so that might get them to build something as good as we hope. Hope, hope, hope!
However, I don't recall any Olympus non-pro lens having a list price of more than $1,000, while the PL100-400 is now about $1.500 ($1,800 on release). But, if the Oly 100-400 is at the sub $1,000 price point, the PL100-400 may not be the target competition. So, even if I would like an Olympus version my PL100-400, this may not be it.
 

hoodlum

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However, I don't recall any Olympus non-pro lens having a list price of more than $1,000, while the PL100-400 is now about $1.500 ($1,800 on release). But, if the Oly 100-400 is at the sub $1,000 price point, the PL100-400 may not be the target competition. So, even if I would like an Olympus version my PL100-400, this may not be it.
A 100-400mm f5-f6.3 would require a minimum 64mm front lens element. No other non-pro lens has had a lens element that large and this makes up a large portion of the cost of a lens. Adding IS is another additional cost that would be new to non-pro lenses. This lens will become the most expensive non-pro lens once it is announced. My guess is that it would MSRP for over $1k.
 
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RAH

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Yes, the Pany/LEICA lenses seem to occupy a slightly different niche than either Oly's standard or their pro level, or the regular Panys. So that is why I figured that the PL 100-400 was probably equiv build-wise to the PL 12-60 (which I have). I mean, they are better build and higher price, but not as pricey as Oly pro.

However, even in the PL group there are differences. For example, I just got a PL 8-18. The lens itself does resemble the PL 12-60, but the lens hood isn't nearly as nice as the lenshood on the 12-60.

Anyway, I thnk both Gary and I are expecting the new Oly 100-400 to be much like Oly AND Pany standard build quality, just like the Oly 75-300 and the Pany 100-300. So about $1000, I'd guess, because of the larger components, etc, as mentioned by Hoodlum.

I REALLY LIKE the mid-level grade of lenses in the PL lineup. To me they hit the sweet spot better than the cheap regular lenses of both brands or the huge and expensive Oly pros. But different strokes for different folks. :)
 
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I'm a little perplex about the micro adjustment menu...
Theoretically, it would be geood to have micro adjustments of all high aperture lenses (mostly primes for me).
But the process seems extremely complicated.
I thought that there would be an automated process aligning PDAF measurements to CDAF... but it seems to be fully manual.
Is there something I missed?
 

gary0319

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I'm a little perplex about the micro adjustment menu...
Theoretically, it would be geood to have micro adjustments of all high aperture lenses (mostly primes for me).
But the process seems extremely complicated.
I thought that there would be an automated process aligning PDAF measurements to CDAF... but it seems to be fully manual.
Is there something I missed?
I have always thought that the micro adjustments are only for use with PDAF and earlier 4/3 Zuiko (not m4/3) lens. I have never felt the need to venture into the micro adjustments for any of my M43 lenses, Olympus or Panasonic.... maybe I missed something, too.
 

archaeopteryx

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Is there something I missed?
Not really. If the many descriptions of Olympus AF-S which have been posted to mu-43 over the years are correct, every AF-S operation on an E-M1 {I, II, X} body uses CDAF to microadjust PDAF. It's just that Olympus firmware apparently doesn't remember, automatically apply, and continuously update this information.

Why does Olympus not do this very obvious thing? I do not know. I suspect Fuji X implements it and I've glanced at a few posts which suggest Canon may also autoadjust PDAF from CDAF on R mount. Sony didn't but it's been a while since I checked, so that might have changed. Nikon Z seems widely reported as benefiting from AF fine tune, so presumably Nikon is still figuring this out.
 
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I tried a wired remote control for Canon (Pixel RC-201/E3) and it works fine.
I really like using a wired remote control using a tripod, as phone pairing is always too long to configure on the go, and it drains my phone battery too quickly.

However, the remote works but the system is not usable as I want...
The position of the remote plug on the E-M5 is poorly chosen. When pluged in, it blocks the screen position to vertical when extended.
It's not possible to orientate the screen to the top... and this always what I want to do when I'm using a tripod - as I'm (much) taller than my tripod.
I think that I'll miss my E-M10 tilting screen...
 

RAH

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This is the first I've heard of using a Canon-compatible wired remote on an Oly camera. So, does this mean that the wired remote I have been using for years on my Canon 60D and 80D DSLRs will work also on say my E-M10II and (soon) E-M5III? That would be great. I broke my old Oly-specific wired remote (house brand of B&H) and have been too cheap to buy a new one up till now.

Edit: I'll answer part of my own question - the remote for the Canon 60D and 80D does not have the same type of connector that the E-M10 does. The pin on the Canon (and Pixel RC-201/E3) looks a lot like a headphone plug used for audio and smartphones. The E-M10 has a multi-pin jack. Soooo, it sounds as though the E-M5III has a different type of remote jack. Can it actually be possible that this is similar to what a Canon takes?!? Wow, would that be something! Things might actually be becoming more standardized? Just having USB-powered devices is surprising enough (e.g. AA battery charges that can be powered by a USB powerbank). I am all ears... (Don't let Apple and Sony hear about any standardization! They'll have a nervous breakdown!!)
 
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Yes, em1 mk2 and em5 mk3 have a different remote plug than other Oly cameras.
I had one for my em10 but had to buy another. I prefer the jack plug from the em5 mk2.

Too bad the plug is so badly positionned... I looked at how it is on em5 mk2 or em1 mk2 and that doesn't block screen orientation...
 

barry13

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This is the first I've heard of using a Canon-compatible wired remote on an Oly camera. So, does this mean that the wired remote I have been using for years on my Canon 60D and 80D DSLRs will work also on say my E-M10II and (soon) E-M5III? That would be great. I broke my old Oly-specific wired remote (house brand of B&H) and have been too cheap to buy a new one up till now.

Edit: I'll answer part of my own question - the remote for the Canon 60D and 80D does not have the same type of connector that the E-M10 does. The pin on the Canon (and Pixel RC-201/E3) looks a lot like a headphone plug used for audio and smartphones. The E-M10 has a multi-pin jack. Soooo, it sounds as though the E-M5III has a different type of remote jack. Can it actually be possible that this is similar to what a Canon takes?!? Wow, would that be something! Things might actually be becoming more standardized? Just having USB-powered devices is surprising enough (e.g. AA battery charges that can be powered by a USB powerbank). I am all ears... (Don't let Apple and Sony hear about any standardization! They'll have a nervous breakdown!!)
Hi, any camera with a standard PC Port should work with any PC remote or cable. This includes at least the E-M1's.

The only concern is with 30+ year old flash heads which can have high voltages.
 

ac12

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Hmmmm...
You raise an interesting point. I assumed that the reason all of my bursts had stopped at about 20 images was because of something I had initiated. However, now that you mention the buffer, it might be that I simply let up on the shutter release because the frame rate slowed due to a full buffer. I was shooting Raw + LSF JPEGS and I know that my E-M1 II will fill the buffer at about the 60 shot point when shooting silent low burst at 18 FPS. Maybe with Raw + LSF JPEG, the 5.3 at 30fps, tops the buffer at about 20 shots.

This possibility, along with some other “ camera response feelings” I have noticed and addressed to my regional Olympus rep, leads me to believe what he said about the E-M5 III....that, while having similar features to the E-M1 II, it has a less powerful processor.

Still, the High Burst setting seems to work quite well in my brief experience, so far, but more testing is needed, it seems.
Check your configuration for continuous mode.
On my EM1-mk2, there is a burst limit. So it will shoot to that burst limit and stop.
Your EM5-mk3 might have the same configuration option.

On the EM1-mk2
> gear > C1 > L Setting (or H Setting) > continuous > Frame Counter Limiter
 

ac12

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I’ll reserve judgement on whether the Olympus 100-400 can stand up to my PanLeica 100-400. I suspect not but Olympus needs to get a replacement for its current 75-300 (kind of long in the tooth by now) and recent advances in technology, along with weather sealing, light weight, and Sync IS might make this lens a nice travel add on lens to my 12-100 Pro.
If they put Sync IS in, I hope Olympus has an upgraded Sync IS mechanism.
The 12-100 SUCKS battery power. If you listen to the lens, the gyros seem to power up, as soon as you turn on the camera. So that lens is drawing power constantly.
That explains the approx 40% reduction in run time that I get with the 12-100 on my EM1-mk1. My continuous run time dropped from 4 hours with a P-Lumix 12-60, down to about 2-1/2 hours with the 12-100. The battery of the EM5-mk3 is similar to the EM1-mk1, so I would expect a similar battery run time.
 

gary0319

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Check your configuration for continuous mode.
On my EM1-mk2, there is a burst limit. So it will shoot to that burst limit and stop.
Your EM5-mk3 might have the same configuration option.

On the EM1-mk2
> gear > C1 > L Setting (or H Setting) > continuous > Frame Counter Limiter
Good point and, in fact, I did just that. The frame counter was set to 25 and now to "off".
 

gary0319

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If they put Sync IS in, I hope Olympus has an upgraded Sync IS mechanism.
The 12-100 SUCKS battery power. If you listen to the lens, the gyros seem to power up, as soon as you turn on the camera. So that lens is drawing power constantly.
That explains the approx 40% reduction in run time that I get with the 12-100 on my EM1-mk1. My continuous run time dropped from 4 hours with a P-Lumix 12-60, down to about 2-1/2 hours with the 12-100. The battery of the EM5-mk3 is similar to the EM1-mk1, so I would expect a similar battery run time.
I'm sure the continuous stabilization in the 12-100 does result in less battery life, as does the continuous OIS in my PanLeica 100-400. However, the upside is that I get a stable view through the EVF, even before I half press for focus. This is not as important with the 12-100, but is a god send when trying to locate elusive critters with the lens out at 400mm.
 

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