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E-M5 High-Res Mode and Lunar Eclipse - Not Gonna Work, Right?

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Amin Sabet, Sep 27, 2015.

  1. Amin Sabet

    Amin Sabet Administrator

    Apr 10, 2009
    Boston, MA (USA)
    I'm assuming the moon movement is going to make it a no-go for high-res mode with a telephoto, correct?
     
  2. gryphon1911

    gryphon1911 Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 13, 2014
    Central Ohio, USA
    Andrew
    I'd give it a shot anyway.
     
  3. siftu

    siftu Mu-43 Top Veteran

    633
    Mar 26, 2015
    Bay Area, CA
    siftu
    yeah you need far higher shutter speeds than what high res mode allows
     
  4. Amin Sabet

    Amin Sabet Administrator

    Apr 10, 2009
    Boston, MA (USA)
    Any recommended settings (f-number, ISO, shutter speed) if I give it a try? Haven't done much moon photography before. I'll be on the long end of the Oly 75-300.
     
  5. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    Lorenzo
    Normally for full moon in clear sky you can use the "f11 moony rule": at f11 shutter speed is the inverse of the ISO.
    So, obviously, you can shoot at 1/400, f8, ISO 200. I suspect that the super moon is going to appear even brighter but during the eclipse I expect quite the opposite. This about exposure.

    To freeze the moon motion I suppose the "500 rule" still applies as the apparent night movement is due to the earth rotation (the 28 days Moon rotation movement is much smaller). So the maximum shutter speed is 500/equivalent focal length seconds. This, obviously, means that your shutter speed must be less then that amount of time to avoid trails. For example 0.8 seconds for a 300mm (native) lens. In other words the moon is so bright that freezing it is simple.
    For hi-res you have 8 shots x 1/400 = 1/50 seconds for the full eight shots well below the limit even for the longest lenses. So it should be worth an attempt.

    Corrections are welcome, I patched together a few infos yesterday and I could have missed something.

    EDIT: From a few test (at close focus only) with the 75-300, even if does not match most reviews, I get the best results at f11 on the tele end.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2015
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  6. siftu

    siftu Mu-43 Top Veteran

    633
    Mar 26, 2015
    Bay Area, CA
    siftu
  7. protapic

    protapic Mu-43 Veteran

    317
    Feb 12, 2011
    Cleveland, Ohio
    John
  8. Luke

    Luke Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jul 30, 2010
    Milwaukee, WI
    Luke
    my only halfway decent shot of the moon at 300mm shows EXIF of 1/125, f5.6, ISO 200. Luckily, you have plenty of time to experiment while the event unfolds over the course of 3-4 hours. I'm gonna try it as well if we're not clouded over.
     
  9. bikerhiker

    bikerhiker Mu-43 All-Pro

    Dec 24, 2013
    Canada
    David
    I don't think it's a go since the hi-res shot is limited to ISO 1600. During the blood moon phase, you may need to jack up your ISO really high; higher than 1600 to get a decent shot. The moon is moving at a high rate of speed in an arc so I don't think the hi-res feature will work either. But you can try.
     
  10. bikerhiker

    bikerhiker Mu-43 All-Pro

    Dec 24, 2013
    Canada
    David
    I tested it yesterday night with a clear sky and my E-P5 with the 4/3 70-300mm lens with Digital Teleconverter Option turned on (1200mm eff FOV) and it was pretty bright, but I usually keep the shutter speed around 1/1000 sec because of vibration of my lightweight tripod. @ 300mm (which is 600mm FOV for full frame), any slight movement including just very very slightly moving my cable release causes camera shake. Even slight wind causes camera shake and thus make the moon soft. Even manual focusing the lens is super tough as the image is moving all over the place because of the light weight ball head. I have to increase shutter shock delay up to 8 sec to get a good sharp moon. Since the sensor will be moving in fine steps, I fear this will introduce camera shake on top of whatever artifacts it will produce due to movement. I suppose you can bring out the ultra beef super heavy tripod and a super heavy ball head to quash these small vibrations, but then this defeats the purpose of a light weight system. The blood moon is the trickiest since it calls for a very slow shutter speed and hi-iso, which will exceed hi-res 1600 iso limit. If you need to shoot at 4000 iso which I suspect will be the case for tonight's blood moon phase, then hi-res is out if you're using the 75-300 or 70-300 4/3 lens as your main lens.

    The 4MP 1200mm DTC shot was then up-sampled via Genuine Fractal to 40MP. End quality was actually quite good and a good candidate for a large print.. So I'm pumped for TONIGHT!
     
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  11. Luke

    Luke Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jul 30, 2010
    Milwaukee, WI
    Luke
    • Informative Informative x 2
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  12. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    Lorenzo
    So at 90% dark this is the exposure time he used: ISO 800, f/8, 1/2 second. Multiplied by 8 is already above the "1 second" limit for 300mm :(
    Pushing the ISO, going to 6.7...maybe...but probably kills the hi-res advantage. Maybe a 200mm hi-res is a better option.

    As this is all about the hi-res mode vs moon speed this could be experimented before the eclipse in shutter priority to find the lowest usable speed. Assuming the artefacts are visible on the LCD or you have some kind of external monitor. You may need an ND filter to go down to 1/2s before the eclipse.

    Self timer or OI Share can be used to reduce human vibrations.
     
  13. Luke

    Luke Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jul 30, 2010
    Milwaukee, WI
    Luke
    What is this "1 second" limit for 300mm? Also, what needs to be multiplied by 8 here (just so I understand)?
     
  14. Klorenzo

    Klorenzo Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 10, 2014
    Lorenzo
    See my previous post. The "1 second" is 0.8 rounded up, the trail limit for a 300mm lens. The 8 is the number of shots taken sequentially by the hi-res mode and then merged together.
     
    • Informative Informative x 1
  15. fsuscotphoto

    fsuscotphoto Mu-43 Top Veteran

    819
    Feb 15, 2013
    St. Cloud, FL
    Ron
    Good luck to all of you, here in FL and most of the South we are going to be seeing the underside of clouds.
     
  16. dornblaser

    dornblaser Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Aug 13, 2012
    Chicago-area
    David Dornblaser
    So, you picked up an E-M5 ii?
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2015
  17. b_rubenstein

    b_rubenstein Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 20, 2012
    Melbourne, FL
    OH NOOOO! I just spent the last 8 hours doing ISO, shutter speed, aperture in Math CAD!:yahoo:
     
  18. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Ken
    We had clears skies here today in the Pacific Northwest with a good forecast for viewing, but a layer of haze moved in just before the moon was visible, and it did not appear in the sky until it was well above the horizon line, and even then it was covered in haze. Greatly disappointing!

    --Ken
     
  19. Repp

    Repp Mu-43 Top Veteran

    500
    Jan 27, 2011
    Oak Harbor, WA
    So, I made my attempt at it... the eclipsed moon is much darker than a normal moon, was really hard to get a decent shot without bumping the iso into the un-usable range. And things got worse as the shadow of the eclipse started to fade. Not nearly as crisp as my previous shots of the supper moon. Here's a brief post on it. https://wanderlite.wordpress.com/2015/09/28/shooting-the-lunar-eclipse/ Everything was with the GX7, 100-300 for the moon, 12-35 or 35-100 for the rest. This might make me want to trade in my 100-300 for the 100-400 when it comes out though.
    15SepDMC-GX7_1130359.
     
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  20. bikerhiker

    bikerhiker Mu-43 All-Pro

    Dec 24, 2013
    Canada
    David
    I also made the attempt of it and the eclipsed moon was more difficult to shoot than the normal moon. A number of frames got junked because the ISO went too high and too noisy, but I managed to snag just a few keepers. Not as sharp as I want to be, but at least I was there and the sky was clear!
    E-P5 with 4/3 70-300mm @ 300mm and then with DTC to get 600mm or (1200mm FOV)

     
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