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E-M1 Optimal Settings AF-C

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Albino_BlacMan, Oct 17, 2014.

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  1. Albino_BlacMan

    Albino_BlacMan Mu-43 Regular

    48
    Oct 12, 2012
    Canada
    I tried to shoot my son's speedskating tonight with my newly acquired E-M1.

    I'm blown away by the ISO performance (I shot some shots at 6400! with my E-3 I would just have put the camera away. I couldn't shoot past 800).

    However I had problems trying to get AF to lock (lighting wasn't great but at times I was around f3.5, 1/350s, ISO 2000).

    I'm wondering what the optimal settings are to get the best from the camera's AF system. Any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.
     
    Albino_BlacMan, Oct 17, 2014
    #1
  2. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler Subscribing Member

    5,843
    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Hi, which lens? Some have quicker AF...

    For flying birds, I've had best luck with S - AF and single or small center point, but others like larger grids.
    Refocus for each shot.

    Also try C - AF with single shot or slow burst mode.

    Also try panning.

    Barry
     
    barry13, Oct 17, 2014
    #2
  3. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    4,700
    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    C-AF is pretty useless IMHO. S-AF with a refocus for each shot, or using the old-style pre-focus is the most reliable way to get sharp shots of moving subjects on any CDAF camera (apart from the Nikon J1).
     
    pdk42, Oct 17, 2014
    #3
  4. GRID

    GRID Mu-43 All-Pro

    1,218
    Jun 22, 2011
    I´ve been using C-AF and C-AF tracking on my E-M1 and it works quite well with the Oly 75mm on F1.8 when shooting rallycars, both coming straight at me and at an angle, so I would not say that it´s useless.

    For the OP, i just selected C-AF and it worked, so i dont have any setting to help you, maybe it´s the speed of the Oly75mm that helped me.
     
    GRID, Oct 17, 2014
    #4
  5. Growltiger

    Growltiger Mu-43 All-Pro

    1,030
    Mar 26, 2014
    UK
    I recommend this (because S-AF is incredibly fast and reliable):
    S-AF, single focus point (standard not small), High speed continuous - half press to get focus than instantly fire the shortest burst your finger can manage (about 3 shots). Repeat.
    What lens?
     
    Growltiger, Oct 17, 2014
    #5
  6. zathras

    zathras Mu-43 Regular

    161
    Jul 13, 2014
    Waikato, New Zealand
    Chris Nielsen
    C-af works great if you set it up right and if you realise you have to stick to the central part of the finder to catch the PDAF sensors. I use the 3x3 grid AF points locked to the centre, face detect off, review off, drive to L. Make sure you have the latest firmware. My last test showed some hunting when target far away then it would grab the target and track flawlessly.
     
    zathras, Oct 17, 2014
    #6
  7. RamblinR

    RamblinR Mu-43 Top Veteran Subscribing Member

    572
    Aug 16, 2012
    Qld Australia
    Maria
    Try the following

    Shoot in RAW
    Picture Style – VIVID
    Sharpness 0
    Contrast +2
    RGB +2
    Continuous Shooting LOW
    Focus – C-AF
    J - Frame Rate - HIGH
    Turn IS off
     
    RamblinR, Oct 17, 2014
    #7
  8. Albino_BlacMan

    Albino_BlacMan Mu-43 Regular

    48
    Oct 12, 2012
    Canada
    I'm using the 50-200 SWD right now (there aren't many fast enough options out there until the 40-150mm comes out which is on my "to buy" list)
     
    Albino_BlacMan, Oct 17, 2014
    #8
  9. Albino_BlacMan

    Albino_BlacMan Mu-43 Regular

    48
    Oct 12, 2012
    Canada
    Thanks for this! I'm wondering why you turn IS off (I could definitely use the IS help in low light).

    What does everyone use for AF lock (I'm usually trying to lock on one skater/player/runner/subject that is coming towards me to I need to adjust to that change in distance but not to other people coming into the frame).

    Also in VIVID with settings adjusted do I want the camera set to Art LV mode: mode 1 or mode 2?
     
    Albino_BlacMan, Oct 17, 2014
    #9
  10. Albino_BlacMan

    Albino_BlacMan Mu-43 Regular

    48
    Oct 12, 2012
    Canada
    My big question here is are all the PDAF sensor made equal or are the outside ones less sensitive than the inside ones?

    Also are any of the points cross type? Or are they all linear (and if there are cross type sensors which ones are they)?

    Also is there a consensus on single vs 3x3 pattern. Usually single seems like it would be easier for me (and I can usually stick it on my subjects face and leave it there) but if 3x3 works better I could probably make it work too.
     
    Albino_BlacMan, Oct 17, 2014
    #10
  11. Albino_BlacMan

    Albino_BlacMan Mu-43 Regular

    48
    Oct 12, 2012
    Canada
    And as an extension of this question are all the CDAF AF points created equal (If I use a m43 lens are some points better than others or are they all equal)?
     
    Albino_BlacMan, Oct 17, 2014
    #11
  12. zathras

    zathras Mu-43 Regular

    161
    Jul 13, 2014
    Waikato, New Zealand
    Chris Nielsen
    There are no sensors on the outside part of the frame so no use asking about them.

    I use 3x3 because I shoot planes so easier to keep a big area on the target as I pan. You do whatever floats your goat
     
    zathras, Oct 17, 2014
    #12
  13. barry13

    barry13 Super Moderator; Photon Wrangler Subscribing Member

    5,843
    Mar 7, 2014
    Southern California
    Barry
    Hi, my understanding is the E-M1 has less PDAF points than the E-1, E-3, or E-5.

    It has lots of CDAF points.

    The 50-200mm does not support CDAF however.

    As mentioned, make sure you're on recent firmware (on the body AND lens); E-M1 firmware 1.4 had some big AF improvements for 4/3 lenses.

    Barry
     
    barry13, Oct 17, 2014
    #13
  14. zathras

    zathras Mu-43 Regular

    161
    Jul 13, 2014
    Waikato, New Zealand
    Chris Nielsen
    I feel fw 2 improved the tracking in my mft lenses, it is simply brilliant now, once it locks on its absolutely rock solid with my 75-300
     
    zathras, Oct 17, 2014
    #14
  15. Albino_BlacMan

    Albino_BlacMan Mu-43 Regular

    48
    Oct 12, 2012
    Canada
    It actually has more PDAF points than any previous Olympus camera. The E-1 had 3 (I think), the E-3/5 had 11 and E-M1 has 37. However I'm not sure if they are cross type or not (all the E-3/5 points were cross type).
     
    Albino_BlacMan, Oct 17, 2014
    #15
  16. RamblinR

    RamblinR Mu-43 Top Veteran Subscribing Member

    572
    Aug 16, 2012
    Qld Australia
    Maria
    Turning off IS in caf mode allows faster shutter in high or low (can't remember which) generally when shooting action you would have a shutter speed over 1/500 to freeze the action so IS would not be needed.
     
    RamblinR, Oct 17, 2014
    #16
  17. zathras

    zathras Mu-43 Regular

    161
    Jul 13, 2014
    Waikato, New Zealand
    Chris Nielsen
    Except if you are me, I shoot planes and prefer to keep my shutter speeds below 1/400. Below 1/160 for helicopters.
     
    zathras, Oct 17, 2014
    #17
  18. pdk42

    pdk42 One of the "Eh?" team

    4,700
    Jan 11, 2013
    Leamington Spa, UK
    The E-M1 PDAF points are NOT cross type.

    Regarding using settings such as Vivid, high contrast etc to improve AF, there is a lot of debate about whether it's any help or not. There's a thread on it here somewhere. Personally, I don't think it makes any difference. HOWEVER, for sure it's not going to do anything for PDAF - if it works at all it's because it helps CDAF.
     
    pdk42, Oct 17, 2014
    #18
  19. Albino_BlacMan

    Albino_BlacMan Mu-43 Regular

    48
    Oct 12, 2012
    Canada
    That makes good sense. Can't believe I didn't think of that.
     
    Albino_BlacMan, Oct 17, 2014
    #19
  20. Replytoken

    Replytoken Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    2,914
    May 7, 2012
    Puget Sound
    Ken
    Any particular reason that you recommend standard size focus points rather than small?

    --Ken
     
    Replytoken, Oct 17, 2014
    #20
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