E-M1 Optimal Settings AF-C

C-AF is pretty useless IMHO. S-AF with a refocus for each shot, or using the old-style pre-focus is the most reliable way to get sharp shots of moving subjects on any CDAF camera (apart from the Nikon J1).

 

I´ve been using C-AF and C-AF tracking on my E-M1 and it works quite well with the Oly 75mm on F1.8 when shooting rallycars, both coming straight at me and at an angle, so I would not say that it´s useless.

For the OP, i just selected C-AF and it worked, so i dont have any setting to help you, maybe it´s the speed of the Oly75mm that helped me.

 

I recommend this (because S-AF is incredibly fast and reliable):
S-AF, single focus point (standard not small), High speed continuous - half press to get focus than instantly fire the shortest burst your finger can manage (about 3 shots). Repeat.
What lens?

 

C-af works great if you set it up right and if you realise you have to stick to the central part of the finder to catch the PDAF sensors. I use the 3x3 grid AF points locked to the centre, face detect off, review off, drive to L. Make sure you have the latest firmware. My last test showed some hunting when target far away then it would grab the target and track flawlessly.

 

Try the following

Shoot in RAW
Picture Style – VIVID
Sharpness 0
Contrast +2
RGB +2
Continuous Shooting LOW
Focus – C-AF
J - Frame Rate - HIGH
Turn IS off

 

There are no sensors on the outside part of the frame so no use asking about them.

I use 3x3 because I shoot planes so easier to keep a big area on the target as I pan. You do whatever floats your goat

 

I feel fw 2 improved the tracking in my mft lenses, it is simply brilliant now, once it locks on its absolutely rock solid with my 75-300

 

Turning off IS in caf mode allows faster shutter in high or low (can't remember which) generally when shooting action you would have a shutter speed over 1/500 to freeze the action so IS would not be needed.

 

Except if you are me, I shoot planes and prefer to keep my shutter speeds below 1/400. Below 1/160 for helicopters.

 

The E-M1 PDAF points are NOT cross type.

Regarding using settings such as Vivid, high contrast etc to improve AF, there is a lot of debate about whether it's any help or not. There's a thread on it here somewhere. Personally, I don't think it makes any difference. HOWEVER, for sure it's not going to do anything for PDAF - if it works at all it's because it helps CDAF.

 

Any particular reason that you recommend standard size focus points rather than small?

--Ken