E-M1 II, new user, SW Questions/Surprises

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by Joska, Apr 16, 2017.

  1. Joska

    Joska Mu-43 Regular

    29
    Apr 16, 2017
    Denmark
    Hi All


    Just got the E-M1 II and is a bit surprised about how some things work, or maybe I missed a setting ?


    1 : Can not have manual focusing on always
    I am used to Canon SLR and there manual focus is simply always ON (if selected on the lense), well obviously not if you are pressing a button that activates auto focus, but otherwise.
    I cant figure out how to set that on the EM1 ?
    So far I only have a macro lens but if am going to use the camera for birding having a button set up for tracking and then switch to manual simply by not pressing the button would seem logical ?


    2 : Display Off while having the eye-sensor turn the EVF on/off
    That would mimic the way you use an SLR and maximize battery life but I can't see that it is possible ?


    3 : Manual focus help on permanently
    When shooting macro I often use the focus ring to set a magnification and the focus by moving forward/backwards, and then it would be nice to have the magnification or peaking on but it appears you have to touch the focus ring to enable it ??
     
  2. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro Subscribing Member

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Clint
    1. Use the Super Control Panel (SCP), press the OK button, third item down from the top in the center, you change from S-AF to C-CAF, to Manual and some others. Just set manual.

    Or, you can press the AF button on the top left of the camera and selct you type of focus you want.
    Or, you can also set this up using Function buttons, maybe someone can help you out - but it is in the manual, see pages 66, 113, and 124.

    2. Turn Monitor off - press and hold the button on the left side of the viewfinder (has kind of a TV looking icon on it), an option for the EFV switch will come up - set it to Off, press the OK button, then press and release that button one more time.

    To get back live view, just press that same button when you want the monitor on.

    3. You can continue to use the focus ring to enable it, or you can again assign a function button for that, it is in the manual, see pages 66, 113, and 124.
     
  3. Joska

    Joska Mu-43 Regular

    29
    Apr 16, 2017
    Denmark
    Thanx Clint for your reply :)

    1:
    I have figured out how to select between the various types of focus but would like to switch fluently between tracking and manual.
    I have auto focus activate set to the AEL button on the back and wish I could have tracking On when I hold that button and manual working when I dont press it ? ;-)


    2: Yes but that function just seems to turn off the eye-sensor, and then you can choose between having either the display or the EVF permanently On ?

    What I want is the display to be Off (unless i review images or go into the menu's) and at the same time have the eye-sensor turn the EVF on/off ?
    In other words, the eye-sensor should Not force the display On, it should only turn the EVF on/off.


    3: Ahh yes that one is solved, got peaking on/off assigned to a button now ! .-)
     
  4. Hendrik

    Hendrik Mu-43 Veteran Subscribing Member

    272
    Feb 27, 2015
    Wayland
    Answered from experience with the E-M1 I and E-M5 II. I don't expect the E-M1 II is far different other than being more extensive.

    #1: The usual setting that satisfies this is AF-S + M. The most convenient implementation, which pretty closely mimics back-button focusing on a DSLR (Nikon, in my case), involves removing AF from the shutter button to some other. On the E-M1 I, I map AEL/AFL to fn 1 (custom menu, buttons/dials/levers). This will allow you to focus with one button, adjust focus manually and shoot a frame without disarranging the tweaked focus. (I don't use the AEL/AFL button for focusing but rather for homing the AF target. I'm a left-eye shooter and on the 1.1, the button is inconveniently close to the bridge of my nose. I'm interested in how the reversal of the orientation of the lever will help.)

    #2: also possible by cycling through the available displays with the INFO button, although there is probably negligible savings since the screen is still lit even though all pixels are set to opaque. The way around this is to flip the rear panel to face the camera body and do all your viewing in the EVF. This is what I do with the E-M5 II.

    #3: for legacy lenses, I set one of the buttons to magnify and another to peaking. I can then get to and away from magnify or peaking without fooling with the menus. The major reason to do this is that magnify commandeers the rear control wheel for viewfinder/display magnification and the wheel is thus lost for exposure adjustments. This may not be how you work, but I insist on having both dials.

    In general, settings like these which are specific to one kind of shooting are most conveniently set into one of the Mysets or C1-3 on the mode dial.
     
  5. Joska

    Joska Mu-43 Regular

    29
    Apr 16, 2017
    Denmark
    To Hendrik :

    #1. Yes but problem here is that manual focus i tied to Af-Single (off for Af-c), that is a pity, why did they do that ?
    Sure enough you can't have manual and tracking at the same time, but it would be so simple to have the sw just ignore signals from the focusing ring while auto focus tracking is active. (Thats how it works on my Canon DLSR.)

    #2 My solution now is to have the display show the super menu, and have quick sleep on, that will make it sleep quickly when not looking in the EVF.
    Still a complete mystery to me why they insist on the eye-senor forcing the display on ?
     
  6. Hendrik

    Hendrik Mu-43 Veteran Subscribing Member

    272
    Feb 27, 2015
    Wayland
    It's early days, yet. Be assured, there is a logic that has been devised by perfectly rational minds and the tool may be perfectly usable even if it is not exactly how you have used a similar tool in the past or currently wish to. I was similarly stymied by the articulated LCD when I purchased the E-M5 II. It took a month or two for it to become my preferred implementation.

    In my shop I have ten hammers or more. I use a few of them for exactly the purpose I bought them and in just the manner I expected to. Other hammers have taught me how to use them to best effect, often for purposes I would not have expected. In these instances I have adapted to my tools rather than the other way around. Some hammers have evolved to have no utility for me, whatsoever. I'm perfectly comfortable with the idea of learning to use a new tool on its own terms.
     
  7. Phocal

    Phocal Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Jan 3, 2014
    The Pro lenses and some of the older Olympus ZD 4/3 lenses will do what you want. Look for lenses with the manual focus clutch or SWD motors in case of the 4/3 lenses.
     
  8. Joska

    Joska Mu-43 Regular

    29
    Apr 16, 2017
    Denmark
    Yes you are right, just tried it, I have the 17mm 1.8 also and you can switch between tracking and manual with the clutch.
     
  9. Clint

    Clint Mu-43 All-Pro Subscribing Member

    Apr 22, 2013
    San Diego area, CA
    Clint
    1- I don't think you'll find a way to do exactly what you want. Alternatives:
    A. just buy the lenses that have the manual switch or the clutch to change focusing modes, or the old SWD lenses.
    B. While looking through the EVF, press the AF button on the top of the camera, and the you can use the rear dial to change focusing modes all the while never taking you eye away from the viewfinder, and watching what your subject even though you are making a change. It takes maybe half a second when you get used to it.
    C. while looking through the EVF, press the OK button to call up the SCP panel - it'll show up in the EVF, select the focusing mode, and then make you change by using the arrow keys around the OK button or the read dial on top of the camera.
    D. Use the Lever to change focusing modes - I don't have my camera set up that way so I'm not sure exactly how that works.

    2. You must not have exactly followed the directions I gave - when completed the monitor (LCD) will be off. The EVF remains on until the camera goes to sleep, which wakes up instantaneously when pressing any button.

    The EVF is quite different than using an optical viewfinder like on a DSLR. There are more benefits. Setup like I mentioned I can hoot all day and get around 800 photos before having to replace the battery. Go to Custom menu J2 to set you time before sleep.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  10. Joska

    Joska Mu-43 Regular

    29
    Apr 16, 2017
    Denmark
    Tried that mode but minimum sleep is 1 min, not saying it wont work, just that it would so much smarter to have the eye-sensor turn off the EVF as soon as it is not used instead of waiting 1 min.

    There are ups and downs to everything, I find it harder to see where focus is on the EVF but then you have peaking and magnification to help, and things like live histogram simply can't be done on an SLR.
     
  11. Lcrunyon

    Lcrunyon Mu-43 Top Veteran Subscribing Member

    982
    Jun 4, 2014
    Maryland
    Loren
    Another option you can consider for switching between MF and CAF+T is to make each one a custom preset. For example, if you are using one for macro and the other for birding, you can have completely different settings optimized for each one. Thus is a useful thing to do regardless. I don't remember if there is a custom button for toggling manual focus, but that might be something to check out as well.

    As for the LCD, if you don't ever want to use it, why not just turn it around? Or, leave it set to the SCP? Personally, though, I would encourage you to give the mirrorless design a try, instead of trying to make it act like a DSLR. Really, there are several advantages to the way it is set up. Battery life isn't all that bad with the Mk II, and even though it is likely less than your DSLR, you might still find it sufficient (unless you spend extended periods of time camping away from a power source).
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2017
  12. Joska

    Joska Mu-43 Regular

    29
    Apr 16, 2017
    Denmark
    Oh, but I do want to use the LCD for Menu's and review of pictures and also for really low down macro.
    The solution I use now is to have the LCD set to SCP and the eye-sensor On, that will make it quick sleep when I don't use the EVF.

    Don't think I am married to either the DSLR concept or Canon, no Canon camera I know of contains all the features the E-M1 II has but that does not mean the software could not be tweaked a bit to become even better.
     
  13. Matt Drown

    Matt Drown Mu-43 Regular

    40
    Dec 9, 2015
    I have a EM1-Mk1, but i think your questions are roughy the same. I came from back-button-focus on canon equipment :)

    #1 - S-AF + M. Change the Lever to give you two different focus settings, set the other to C-AF. You can swap between Single/Manual, and tracking with the thumb.

    #2 - EVF eye sensor/LCD toggle. Disable the eye-sensor, tap the button until EVF is primary. Set sleep to 60/120 seconds. The EVF works when you put your eye to it, and doesn't lag based on the sensor (maybe the m2 sensor is faster). Pushing play/menu will result in the back LCD engaging. You can't have both off, with the eye-sensor triggering it to come on. On the Mk1 the sleep setting to 1 or 2 minutes gave me a lot more battery, as the battery levels are impacted by EVF or LCD panel on about equally. I know the Mk2 has some better energy management.

    #3 - Someone above posted the best, I set the buttons that are next to the lens mount (reachable with your right hand middle fingers) to do this. On the Mk1, I don't think you can turn on/off dynamic focus magnification with buttons, but you do a 2x setting (which technically will produce raw images with the crop area 2x).

    It took me awhile to figure out all the tweaks and the settings when I moved from a 5dm2 to the EM1, but for the most part you should be able to wrangle the UI into doing what you want.
     
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  14. Joska

    Joska Mu-43 Regular

    29
    Apr 16, 2017
    Denmark
    To Matt
    #1 Might be a solution, problem is the lever also sets different functions for the control wheels. They can be changed, but then ISO needs to be set some other way..it requires a bit of moving things around .-)

    #3 Magnification can be set to a button, shows a rectangle that can be moved.

    My Canon is also a 5Dmkii, not sure yet if I am going to move but I think there is no other way than buying some stuff and see if it works. So far i really enjoy the lower weight, macro setup weight only half of my Canon setup. If the smaller sensor IQ is enough is likely to be a decider.
     
  15. Matt Drown

    Matt Drown Mu-43 Regular

    40
    Dec 9, 2015
    I leave ISO at Auto most of my shooting, you can set max/min iso for the auto setting, so you an keep it within a range that you are happy with. So I don't adjust ISO that way. I think WB is the other option, and I shoot RAW, so never use it. I hit the OK button for the SCP and adjust ISO. I know answer your question, but I figured explaining my workflow may have some value.

    If you are coming from the Canon, pick up the 12-40 pro, and/or the better primes. I don't have experience with Macro gear, so can't advise. My wife and I each picked one up for travel after carrying 5d2's around while on a massive travel experience (2 On The Run — Matt and Neeley's Adventures for more info, all the Italy ones are olympus). The weight and size are hard to complain about after you use them for awhile. I miss the DOF for certain shots, and don't for others. It's about the trade offs.

    Enjoy the new camera, and do give it a little time before making a full judgement. The menu system, though complex, does become far easier to navigate after a little use, and the flexibility is wonderful.
     
  16. Jeffp3456

    Jeffp3456 New to Mu-43

    6
    Apr 2, 2013
    South Florida
    If I understand your question correctly you want a quick easy way to toggle between AF and MF? On the MK2 you can set the "set home" function in Gear Menu A2 to do this. The MK2 allows you to set any combination of target mode, target position and AF mode (like MF), a quick press of the Fn1 button and you switch to your settings and a second press will switch you back to whatever the camera was doing before the first press.

    Personally, I use this to toggle between S-AF and C-AF+Tr with the quick press of a button.

    The head scratcher here (one of many) is that this is one of the few settings that Oly does not allow you to save in a C1-3 custom setting.. go figure.

    Hope that helps
    Jeff
     
  17. Joska

    Joska Mu-43 Regular

    29
    Apr 16, 2017
    Denmark
    Thanx for the tip !


    By now I have accepted that "full time manual" as Canon calls it is not available, so some kind of work around is needed and it can be done in many ways.

    I have the 17mm 1.8 and it has a focus clutch but it really is not needed...

    In the old days the focus ring had a mechanical connection to the same internals in the lens as the auto focus motor, so when auto was active you had to un-clutch the focus ring, otherwise it would rotate in your hand. But now that the focus ring is just sending signals to the camera body the clutch is pointless.
    To make thing really funny, if I turn off the focus clutch in the camera then manual focus on the 17mm only works when the clutch is in the position where you cant see the focus scale ;-)
     
  18. Lcrunyon

    Lcrunyon Mu-43 Top Veteran Subscribing Member

    982
    Jun 4, 2014
    Maryland
    Loren
    S-AF+M is also nice for particular occasions. Autofocus is the primary system, but MF will work too. There is a difference, however, in that this MF has very fine throw. It's for minute adjustments when AF isn't quite getting you there, such as when shooting a bird amidst thick branches and the AF keeps hitting the branches.

    The Olympus Pro lenses' clutch system is the full MF where spinning the focus ring has full throw.