I switched every camera body I have to Spot metering several years ago.
I use back button focusing to lock in the focus.
Then spot metering to set the exposure by pointing the camera at something representing the zone I want to optimize, check the histogram, and lock that with a shutter half press.
Then I recompose and take the shot.
It sounds like a lot of steps, but all takes just a second, and produces a very high keeper rate.
I grew up on centre weighted metering and still set every camera to it when available. It does need exposure compensation more often, but to me it is more predictable...
For scenic/landscape type of work I like to use the spot highlight mode. Spot meter the brightest area you want detail in, lock the exposure, recompose the image and shoot.
I do exactly the opposite of Major Magee but I guess it all comes out the same.
I have the Fn2 button (on the top plate) set to AEL (exposure lock hold).
I move the spot meter point around the scene until the exposure looks right to me, then lock it.
Then I point the camera (center point autofocus) at what I want in focus -
press the shutter halfway and lock focus.
Then recompose and press shutter to take picture.
Like his description, it takes way longer to explain it than to do it.
The reason I have them switched is that, for any one scene,
my focus point is more likely to change than my exposure.
Once I have the exposure set and locked,
I can then focus, recompose, shoot, all with my finger on the shutter button,
without having to reset the exposure every time -
unless the light changes, of course.
The beauty of the complex Olympus menu system
is it allows you to customize these various options.
It just takes a month or two to figure it all out . . .