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Depth of field preview without 'L-Fn' button on Olympus E-PM2

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by reggaerahul, Dec 27, 2013.

  1. reggaerahul

    reggaerahul Mu-43 Rookie

    19
    Nov 8, 2013
    Pune, MH, India
    Rahul Rege
    Hi, I was using EPL1 for last 3 years and mainly used the Canon FD (28/2.8,50/1.4) legacy lenses with adapter. That was becoming bit heavy for me and I needed a fast autofocus. I recently got a EPM2 body and Oly 17mm pancake and Sigma 30mm. Love the autofocus speed and accuracy and the convenience of touch screen.

    However, with the old legacy glass I was exactly seeing what I'd get in the final image as the camera is unaware of the aperture/focus settings and change of aperture through the ring immediately shows up.
    I thought that if I turn off that Live-Boost or something in EPM2 and change the aperture, I should see the depth of field but I can't, it gets set to the 2.8 somehow.

    I then stumbled on the 'L-Fn' key which has an option of it setting to 'Preview', but turns out this is not on the body but on some supported lenses like 12-50 and there is no option to assign the function of other keys to 'Preview' unless any of you are aware.

    Is it just me who thinks this is not done right if there is no other option to know my DOF ?


    Thanks
    Rahul
     
  2. reggaerahul

    reggaerahul Mu-43 Rookie

    19
    Nov 8, 2013
    Pune, MH, India
    Rahul Rege
    Sorry, my bad. The Fn button && the movie recording button can be assigned with 'Preview' function. I was wrongly looking at > < arrow buttons to assign this, which has small set of functions to choose from.

    I chose the movie recording for the 'Preview' as its easier to press that with the AF pressed than the Fn button.
     
  3. Ulfric M Douglas

    Ulfric M Douglas Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 6, 2010
    Northumberland
    Good to know anyway.

    How are you finding the colours compared to your e-pL1 with the same manual lenses?

    One thing the e-pM2 can do that the e-pL1 couldn't is a really good HDR (=exposure bracket) using an assigned function button as toggle, did you find it? :)
     
  4. reggaerahul

    reggaerahul Mu-43 Rookie

    19
    Nov 8, 2013
    Pune, MH, India
    Rahul Rege
    Thanks for the HDR comment, I am yet to explore in that area..

    Honestly, after using it for a week now, I really don't know if I am loving it. I am trying hard to love it though ;) . I actually thought to move away from the manual lenses to keep the kit light, so got myself 17mmpancake and 30mm sigma.. and gave my Canon FDs to a friend :( , although, I couldn't resist and ordered an OM 50/1.8 since I had the adapter. But mostly I am now shooting with the 30mm Sigma and the pancake. Don't know if its the sensor OR my jpeg settings OR the very good quality old manual glass, I love the feel of EPL1 more.. I know more DR, more megapix in new sensor and bla bla, but I am not a serious photographer or anything.. Just prefer to love what comes out of camera with little tweaking in PP


    I convinced myself that since I am not getting very fast AF glass (Both are 2.8), I should have a good high ISO body and got that new line of 16MP sensor. I shouldn't judge it immediately based on little time I have spent with it but something doesn't seem right, OR I was too used to the EPL1. I tried the same JPEG settings on this though, but sometimes the saturation and contrast is too much for OOC JPEGs, I do shoot raw as well. Nothing is bad or anything, everything is good and sharp and all but .. don't know..
     
  5. Ulfric M Douglas

    Ulfric M Douglas Mu-43 Hall of Famer

    Mar 6, 2010
    Northumberland
    I believe, with manual-focusing old lenses, the e-pL1 is the far better tool, unless it's a cat in a coalmine. (e-P2 is almost as good as e-pL1, but lacks the proper magnify button.)
    and the Sigma30mm is good but has nothing like the 'feel' or 'pop' of old 50mms.
    Yes everything is good and sharp and it has some awesome abilities but a straight daytime Jpeg isn't likely to be as 'nice' ... that's progress.

    Since you also get the RAW files you really need to dig into this stuff ;
    1.
    Assign HDR bracket to the top Fn button, it toggles it on or off so don't forget to toggle it off afterwards. Choose maybe +_1x5EV
    Now try. The camera will rattle five exposures with a ridiculously wide range (in less than a second!!!) and give you five RAWs to cover cats in coal mines to a supernova.

    2.
    Enable Art-filter-bracket and choose maybe three in the next menu page : Natural, soft-focus, dramatic-tone or whatever. Make sure you set it by OK button press again or it doesn't go on.
    Now try. For each exposure you get the RAW, plus the three (or more, or less) Jpeg types chosen, great for quickly getting an effect, and just delete the ones you don't want after downloading to your compootah and checking them out.