David Clapp review of the GF1

Amazing

I saw this review a week ago and can only say - Wow those are some incredible images.

My initial thoughts about the GF1 being able to almost match the Canon 5D for quality have been vindicated in his images and associated comments and it goes a long way in making me feel happier in my purchase.

Great review of a great camera!

 

I have to say that I bought the GF1 as a backup with video for my Leica M8 + 28 Summicron combo, and while in dim lighting the M8 is faster the work with and for pixel peeping the Leica wins by a small margin, at 1/7th the price and a smaller size for now at least the GF1 is my main camera. It's really pretty amazing.

 

Well, if it's good enough for him......

 

An excellent article. Just goes to show what can be done with a good camera (does not have to be the most expensive, flashy etc), excellent technique and a good 'photographic eye'.

I've got the camera - where do I get the rest!!!

Chris

 

Wow, a wonderful preview about GF1, thank you so much.

 

As an adage to my previous comments about his review, I would be interested to see what his workflow is for his Raw images.

 

Interesting - and I can see what you mean... he must have some excellent selection/blending tools - you can't see the join

Cheers

Brian

 

Thanks soundimageplus,

regarding this quote from your blog :

"His basic idea was that for digital raw files you should always shoot with slight overexposure.
The reason for this was that raw files have 1 to 1 1/2 stops of latitude for highlights."

I think that I'd disagree here - what I prefer to do, is to set
* Colour tone Natural
* Contrast -2
* Sharpening -2
* Saturation -2
* Gradation Normal

And this gives me a very neutral jpeg for in-camera previewing... as well as a histogram / auto exposure which most closely matches that of the raw file.

I then expose to the right (where more colour data is stored), making sure not to clip highlights.

The biggest problem with blown highlights is the transition from some colour to white - some raw converters are better than others in providing smooth transitions.

Cheers

Brian

 

That would be a great image for our Lightzone workshop... thanks for sharing.

My point was, that the histogram and highlight/shadow clipping views are based on the in-camera jpeg.

The in-camera jpeg is created using the in-camera settings (contrast, saturation, sharpening, gradation etc) - and this can be brought much closer to a true representation of the raw file by reducing contrast, sharpening, saturation to the minimum.

Give it a try - you should find it takes a lot of guesswork out of your exposure assessment in the field.

Cheers

Brian

 

Yes, it's crazy that the histogram and highlight/shadow clipping views are generated from the jpeg when shooting raw.

That should really be addressed.

Cheers

Brian

 

Thanks for the tips and techniques in this thread in addition to the original link posted. The information on your soundimageplus blog was one of the main factors which led me to chose the GF1 back in November.

 

Thanks Soundimageplus,

I must play more with bracketing which is easy in the GF1 - you can set the camera to take up to 7 different exposures of the same image at varying EV's.

I am not a fan of HDR as it is too easy to make it look "plastic" and false.

This thread has made me realise even more that maybe I do need to invest in a remore release rather than use the self timer, especially when bracketing.

Thanks for a great post with valuable discussions.

 

I can recommend the JJC timer remote controller if you are after something with a extra functionality. Was only $30 inc p&p! bargin  

http://www.jjc.cc/products/TM-D.htm

 

Thanks Pointoneeight,

I have just had a look at the site and unfortunately the release does not appear to be available for the GF1.

Ian