Showcase Cosina Voigtlander 15mm f/4.5 Super Heliar

OzRay

OzRay

Mu-43 Hall of Famer
I'm assuming that all and sundry can post images in each relevant thread. So here's one that I took recently on a trip of ours into the bush, 1st image slightly adjusted in Lightroom and the second in CS4 using Topaz Detail 2 and selecting 'I feel lucky' - I kind of like the result for some reason.





Here's another one from the same trip, but quite a different location:



Cheers

Ray
 
A

apt-efx

Mu-43 Rookie
Great shots ahuyevshi! I especially love the first one.. The gloomy overcast + the dead end sign just match so well, if a little depressing.

Anyway! Do you guys find that f/4.5 is enough for overcast day, or at the twilight hours? Or is there any need for any ISO compensation for hand-held shots...?
 
Vidar

Vidar

Mu-43 Top Veteran
Are these shots cropped? Heard vignetting is a problem with lenses this wide on :43: ?
 
noodlehaus

noodlehaus

Mu-43 Veteran
Shouldn't the vignetting problem only manifest when it's used on a 35mm camera? With the mft's crop factor, most of it is left out?
 
Amin Sabet

Amin Sabet

Administrator
Vidar said:
Are these shots cropped? Heard vignetting is a problem with lenses this wide on :43: ?
Click to expand...
noodlehaus said:
Shouldn't the vignetting problem only manifest when it's used on a 35mm camera? With the mft's crop factor, most of it is left out?
Click to expand...
Vignetting is a major issue with wide C-mount lenses adapted to MFT. That is because most of them aren't designed to cover a 4/3 frame and also because digital sensor don't do as well with light coming in at an angle. With lenses designed for 35mm frame, vignetting isn't generally an issue with MFT, though there can be some modest effects in the periphery of the frame with adapted rangefinder lenses.
 
ahuyevshi

ahuyevshi

Mu-43 Veteran
Thanks guys... the 1st is and HDR -2/0/+2 processed with photomatix... There is absolutely no vignetting. Some claim that this lens produces smearing in the extreme corners, something I haven't noticed... These are full frame..

Honestly if I'm using a wide angle I want more DoF so I will be stopping down anyway.. I have a 16-35 F/2.8 on my 5d2.. I never shoot it at 2.8
 
grebeman

grebeman

Mu-43 All-Pro
A rather wintry scene at Slapton

1000838.jpg

Panasonic GF1 with 15mm, f/4.5 Voigtlander at f/8

The graveyard at Slapton is frozen over. This is an uncropped photograph with minor post processing of the raw file in Bibble Pro 5, including control of the vignetting.

Barrie
 
M

michaelfinch

Mu-43 Regular
Some great shots here. I've got a 15mm on my Bessa plus a couple of others I'd like to try. Who sells a good (threaded) adaptor?
Cheers
 
grebeman

grebeman

Mu-43 All-Pro
michaelfinch said:
Some great shots here. I've got a 15mm on my Bessa plus a couple of others I'd like to try. Who sells a good (threaded) adaptor?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Hi Michael,
As you can see from my signature I've got several Voigtlander Leica screw lenses and I've now gone slightly overboard perhaps with an adapter fitted to each one. I think I've bought from 4 different suppliers, one from Germany was the most expensive but others from Hong Kong have actually been heavier although significantly cheaper. They have all had three set screws to secure the inner threaded ring, so the one referred to by pdh would seem to be a superior product. I think the set screws are an 8BA thread and don't always allow a good secure purchase to be made. I've had one set screw where the thread in the adapter stripped, luckily I'm in a position where I was able to drill it out, re tap it as 6BA and insert an allen key set screw making it much more secure.
I've found it necessary to shim most lenses to get them to focus on infinity, funnily enough the 15mm is the only one that didn't require shimming. That was one reason for getting an adapter for each lens.
I started off by putting a shim behind the threaded ring in the adapter itself, usually needed somewhere between 2 thousands on an inch and 4 thousands of an inch, but on the last 2 I shimmed I took the threaded collar off the back of the lens and put the shim under there (there are sometimes shims already under there put in at manufacture). Had I started off doing that then I could have got away with just one adapter of course because each lens would have been adjusted rather than the adapter being adjusted for a particular lens. I might revisit those lenses that are unshimmed and shim them up and remove the shims for the various adapters, but there's no rush for that.
NB the last two I got were from Photodiox in the States and postage was expensive, the product was identical to those from Hong Kong where postage might be free, or certainly cheaper.

Barrie
 
grebeman

grebeman

Mu-43 All-Pro
The material (aluminium) for the barrels of drinks cans is about 3 to 4 thousands of an inch thick, it will cut with a sturdy craft type of knife run round it a few times (carefully!). It needs to be carefully deburred and cleaned of any metal dust particles, also I used wet and dry paper to get the drinks logo off of the metal. I did also actually find some 3 thousands of an inch shim left over from my days as a model engineer. For the shims I've actually put in the lenses I used cooking foil, that's only 1 thousands of a inch thick so 2 or 3 layers would be needed, it will survive being used in that situation where the collar does not need to be turned at all when it is screwed back onto the lens so there is no danger of it crumpling and upsetting the lie of the collar.

Barrie
 
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