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Climbing and lenses

Discussion in 'Native Lenses' started by zukes_shoots, May 6, 2012.

  1. zukes_shoots

    zukes_shoots New to Mu-43

    Apr 30, 2012
    Hey guys,

    I jst ordered the EM5 with 12-50mm kit lens and already have the E-PM1 with the 14-42 kit lenses on that....my question is that I'm looking for a new lenses and need some suggestions! Here are my thoughts

    -I tend to like long exposures of landscapes (typically on the wider angle)
    -I have never worked with a prime and feel as if that would make me a better photographer as well as be more a challenge/fun (would be looking at the panny 14mm as it is only ~$160 on ebay)
    -I would like advice if anyone has first hand experience shooting climbing or alpine climbing about a lens suggestion there as well.

    I'm leaning towards either the panny 14mm, oly 9-18, or oly 45.....please help me make a decision

    Thanks in advance
  2. xdayv

    xdayv Color Blind

    Aug 26, 2011
    Tacloban City, Philippines
    I will suggest the 14mm panasonic as this is one of the smallest and lightest lenses out there. I regret having sold mine, but I had to let it go together with the GF1. If i were to climb, I will bring this one. or the 9-18. I cannot imagine carting along the 7-14, but I won't mind the bulk and weight either if the scenery calls for an UWA.
  3. nickthetasmaniac

    nickthetasmaniac Mu-43 All-Pro

    Jan 11, 2011
    As I mentioned, I think the key to really really cool climbing photography (and surfing and bodyboarding and so on and so forth) is continuity. Create a distinct style and you're shots will start to be a lot more interesting. I reckon this is more important that photographing every possible moment.

  4. chuckgoolsbee

    chuckgoolsbee Mu-43 Regular

    Apr 6, 2010
    Bend, Oregon
    When I was young I climbed a lot, and shot either very long, or very wide. I had a 70-210mm zoom and a 20mm lens kit for my Pentax 35mm film camera (always shot Kodachrome back then.)

    The wide lens was for shooting both landscapes and the close action near the belay. The long lens was for shooting stuff once my climbing partners were farther away.
  5. heedpantsnow

    heedpantsnow Mu-43 Veteran

    Jul 24, 2011
    I tried using my EOS 10D in Tibet, western Sichuan, Railay (Thailand), and Yangshuo, and it was always too big and never accessible enough. I only used it at Jtree and Yos, and even then not much. Why? It's just too big and requires two hands to operate.

    Ideal climbing camera/lens combo for me:
    • prime (no zoom then no 'other hand' needed), autofocus or so wide it doesn't matter; I like 22-28mm equiv.; I may also try fisheye one of these days also as there's some really cool effects with them
    • internally focusing/zooming (you don't want to pump super cold air through your lens every time you use it!)
    • try to get lenses that all take the same filters (or close to it and use step up/down rings); you will want a polarizer to minimize glare off snow and rock (even dry rock shows details better if you use one)
    • consider lenses with caps that go over the hood - only time I feel I *really* need a hood is high alt and it's too much trouble to remove cap, get out hood, find little dot, put hood on, etc. esp if you're wearing gloves
    • speaking of gloves, will you likely be using your camera with them? better figure that out on the ground first

    My ideal climbing camera in the end was a Ricoh GR1v: rugged, amazing fixed fast 28mm lens, can be clipped in, could take filters, ets., but it was film and they never made a true digital equivalent. Just sold it to buy my EM5 too! Yeeeeeee!
  6. applemint

    applemint Mu-43 Veteran

    Jan 24, 2012
  7. zukes_shoots

    zukes_shoots New to Mu-43

    Apr 30, 2012
    Thanks for the link applemint!
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