Clean ISO 25600 Straight From Camera

Discussion in 'Olympus Cameras' started by tjdean01, Jul 2, 2013.

  1. tjdean01

    tjdean01 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 20, 2013
    This image is 100% directly out of the camera. No post-processing at all. I was monkeying with a bunch of settings and found and get can get ISO 25,600 to look pretty good! I used the PM2 + 14mm, f/4.5, 1/80 sec, manual WB, and a 4 MP jpeg.

    Not bad, eh?

    Attached Files:

  2. Vague

    Vague Mu-43 Regular

    May 20, 2013
    For that extreme.. Not bad at all!
  3. Ian.

    Ian. Mu-43 All-Pro

    Mar 13, 2013
    Real Name:
    Shame we can't go higher!
  4. Bhupinder2002

    Bhupinder2002 Mu-43 Hall of Famer

  5. tjdean01

    tjdean01 Mu-43 Top Veteran

    Feb 20, 2013
    I'm sure someone has made some nicer ISO 25600 pics than mine that they can show us? In case if anyone's wondering, these are the tricks I used to get the clean high ISO. This is in-camera.

    First, I used standard noise reduction. It's usually off, and strong is too strong and smears detail. Standard smears detail too, but since it was only 4 mp you can't tell.

    Gradation is usually norm (ie off) but I turned on low key, I think really improves certain dark images (like shots of the moon). I understand how "auto" or "hi-key" boosts ISO in dark areas to increase dynamic range (and noise) but I don't understand how low key works. It's almost as if it drops the ISO to sub-200 levels in the dark areas (just did a search and it says it boosts contrast).

    I think I had sharpness and saturation at +1. Also, a biggie was to turn WB to a Kelvin number 300 over what is necessary for the light source. This is the only way to keep the colors not looking washed out because...

    ..I used the multiple exposure function, meaning that this is two separate low exposures combined in-camera. You can do it one of two ways: shoot a RAW, look at it, press "ok," and it will give you the overlay option. The way I did it was go to into the auto gain menu under Camera 2 and play around a bit.

    In theory, combining two images works well to make ISO25600 look like ISO3200. Would be great for advertising: "clean ISO25600!" In practice, however, considering I had to set the camera still to wait while it took two exposures, it would have looked much nicer had I just taken one 5 second exposure at ISO 200! Which begs the question, why, if you have to take more than one exposure without moving the camera anyway, why would people ever have a reason to take several high-ISO shots and overlay them in post-processing? (People do do that, which is what gave me the idea, but for what purpose?)